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Water leak from cold water inlet valve
Looked at videos on line at Parts Select. Very easy instructions to watch and follow. After unplugging the washer all I had to do was turn off the cold water valve, remove the supply line, two screws to get the lid off, then two screws to remove the valve and disconnected the electric connector tabs. Took pliers to back the three hose clamps off. The best tip was replacing each hose back on the valve one at a time to prevent mix ups. I did everything in reverse after installation. I ran one short cycle to test the leak. Works perfectly! A tip I saw on You Tube - I have vinyl flooring in my wash room and a repair guy said to spray a light shot of WD 40 under the feet. It doesn’t take much. Man, my washer slid like it was on wheels! I wiped away any excess spray and let it dry under the feet. I’m not sure how this works on other types of floors.
All I did was first of all and since it is so heavy I put 2 furniture sliders under the 2 front feat because I had to pull it out from where it was onto the carpet and the back feat I just sprayed some wd40 so the would slide on the tile floor. Then I took the top off by removing 2 bottom screws and pulled the lid back and up and there was the cold valve. Next I pulled the electric tabs off. Don’t worry they go on the same way they were on. Do not at this time remove the screws on the valve until you pull each off one at a time and place one at a time back on the new valve. Then remove the screws and the old valve and put the screws back on for new valve and you are done. Replace cold water hose turn on water check if no leaks replace lid, you are as if new once again. Good luck. Cost for all that is around $50
I took the washer completely apart and ordered any parts that looked worn and put it back together. It’s working like new and will last for a few years
My front load washer was making a loud roaring sound while spinning out the water
The repair went good but time consuming. I replaced both inner and outer tub bearings along with the tub seal. I removed top by removing two screws in back then pulling back slighty then lifting up. I removed soap tray by pressing down tab and pulling out. Loosened soap dispenser and folded back on top. I removed control panel then front door panel. Remove back panel. Remove motor and shocks and hanging springs which there are two. Disconnect the hoses attached to tub then pull the tub. Remove screws holding the tub halves together. Use punch to remove bearings. NOTE: If you put the bearings in the freezer prior to installing, they go in much easier. I used the old bearing, set it on the new bearing then I tapped the old bearing so not to damage new bearings. I replaced the seal then put everything back together. Not difficult but time consuming.
YouTube is your friend for many such repairs. See this link for an overall description:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuvLuC8x4_s
I had to remove the top panel to determine exactly which valve was leaking. It turned out both hot and cold-water valves were defective.
After unit is unplugged and top is removed, it's a simple matter to remove/replace hose connections and electrical connections. It took me less than an hour to complete the task once parts were in hand.
Washer would not fill with water and a (I E) Code displayed on the screen.
I looked at the video that is on the partselect.com website. The person that I talked to from the website was very knowledgeable about the problem with my washer and he gave me the part number to type in the search box of the website. When I typed the part number in the search box the part showed up and the installation video showed up also. The video is an excellent video. It shows exactly how to do it. I also downloaded the operator manual from the website to look up what the error code meant.
Seal on front loading washer failed, causing basket bearings to fail.
I removed the tub. Thin included disassembling the washer and disconnecting various hoses electrical connectors to facilitate the removal of the tub from the machine. Once removed, I separated the two halves of the tub and removed the metal basket to gain access to the bearings and seal. Removal of the bearings was much harder than expected as they were very difficult to drive out of their pressed in mounting. I finally was able to remove the bearings and fabricated a press using a piece of all thread and two steel plates to install the new bearings and seal. I would not attempt to do this again with the proper bearing pullers and an official press to install the bearings gently without beating the tub housing. This repair I feel is beyond the scope of your average DIY. The bearings can be damaged easily without the specialized tools to install the components.
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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The hot water valve was leaking
It went great. First of all, thank you Part Select for the video on how to do this myself. My home warranty company was giving me a hard time. Blah, blah, blah. A mechanic friend of mine referred me to this site. Within minutes I found the part I need and a GREAT!!!! price. Ordered it, got it super fast, fixed it my self and my second hand washer is no longer peeing all over the floor. Very very happy. I will definitely be a repeat customer, hopefully not anytime soon. Thank you again for an amazing experience.
Followed instruction from you tube. Removed gasket holder, then gasket by door switch assembly then replaced with new assembly! I am a 63 woman and found this easy to do, with help from you tube guy.
To fix the problem, I simply removed the top cover of the washing machine by removing the two screws on the back of the machine which allowed me to slide the top back and then I lifted it off. Then I disconnected the hot water hose (after shutting off the valve). Next, I removed the electrical connectors on the old part as well as the hose attached to it and unscrewed the old part and removed it and put the new one on and reattached the hoses and the electrical. It worked like a charm. It took me perhaps 10 minutes total.
Washer would not start, but if you disconnect it and plugged it in it started without pushing start button
It was easy to remove the rubber gasket to get at the door lock. Removing the door lock and replacing was simple enough, but getting the metal ring securing the gasket was cumbersome and challenging. This took most of the time. However, after replacing the door lock it was obvious that this was not the problem. I had to remove the new part and replace the old one. For future, it was the pob circuit board that was defective and had to replace it. Apparently this is not an uncommon problem as there are a number of UTube videos about this.This job was more involved and took me over an hour and resolved the issue.
Our washer was leaking from the washer hose. Once taken off I could see it had a small tear in it. All it took was a screwdriver and a couple minutes and we were up and running. I love PartSelect.com for always having the parts I need and getting them to me in a timely manner!
Took off the old hose with a screwdriver and put the new one on. As simple as that. You don’t need a repair man to get this done, you can do it yourself and save money too.
Former LG repair looked under washer while it was engaging & noticed motor was not spinning. LG took forever I ordered the part from you guys. It looked different from original. Figured out to take extra port for front loader. I have top loader. Installed washer works great!!
I researched the symptom, watched a repair video, ordered the parts: one rear bearing, seal, and gasket. After disassembly found inner bearing to be bad. Ordered inner bearing. Then found the spider or hub shaft corroded, and ordered spider. Finally with all the parts replaced, assembled washer and returned it to service.
