WGD9450WW2 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.

Cleaned out years of fuzz behind lower access panel and noticed where the igniter sits there is a metal tube about 1 inch in diameter. It had rust on the end and was starting to flake away. Found some helpful hints about how to test the igniter. Very easy, just used an ohmeter. Unplugged the 2 pin wire connector and checked for continuity. 1 lead on 1 pin and the other on the other pin., igniter side not the harness side from the dryer. A good igniter should read less than 5 ohms. I don't know the spec. exacttly, but it should not read open or infinite resistance. My meter read an open circuit. Removed the tube and igniter assembly, mine only 2 small bolts. I found the igniter element cracked. Ordered and installed igniter and tube assembly. This was a very easy install. 20 year old dryer works great and it's better than spending $500.00+ on a new one.

Disconnected Power cord, removed vent pipe, removed back panel, had to slide top cover off to remove additional screw holding back on. Went down to where the Idler Pulley was, removed old piece by depressing on the spring loaded actuator and slid it off the belt and all. Replaced same as removal.

Watched videos on line on how to repair. Replaced all four Drum Rollers, Belt and Idler Pulley, cleaned out inside of unit.

removed door by undoing screws holding it on dryer.
Removed all screws on door EXCEPT the ones with star heads.
Separated two parts of door and undid screws holding hinge in place.
Removed hinge and replaced with new hinge.
Put two faces of door back together and installed door back on dryer.

To be honest and explain, I had previously taken apart the door and removed the star screws which allowed the other pieces of the door holding the window to fall apart.
After some difficulty, I was able to put the seal back on and re-install the metal window holders which is why I said it only took 15 minutes after the part arrived and why I accented NOT removing the star screws.
There were a couple of other screws which probably didn't need removing but they didn't cause any problem with the installation.
After putting the door back on, I had to manually twist the door a small amount because it didn't want to keep the button depressed which kept the motor running which turns the basket and heats the clothes.
The door had been causing some trouble for a couple years and we had obviously closed the door with a little extra force when it ''caught'' on the door frame causing it to bend a small amount.
It only took one adjustment and worked fine after that.

Just watch YouTube videos. They show you how step by step. Easy to install. Clean all the dust out while dryer is apart if you can with a vacuum.

I removed the bottom access panel, with 2 hands i reached in behind the blower, i released the belt, i used a screwdriver to pop the retainer from the pully spindle, i removed and replaced the pully, i snapped the retainer back on and replaced the belt. I made sure the belt was on track and all was good. I put the bottom panel back on, it took all of 5 minutes. The hardest part was the retainer clip faces the rear of the dryer so you have to feel it. Also , the space is tight, use a smaller flathead screwdriver to get behind the clip, it will pop right off.

Simply followed the video that accompanied the part confirmation. Removed the top and front of the dryer. Removed the drum and belt. Unbolted (1 bolt) the Idler pulley and bracket and bolted on the new one. Reversed the sequence of disassembly and tried it out. The only minor difficulty was slipping the belt over the idler pulley after the drum was in place. This is where a second set of hands might be helpful to hold up the drum, while the other person puts the belt in place. Other than that, this was a simple repair and probably saved a couple hundred dollars for about 1.5 hours of my time. Thanks for the video...it was right on point, and made the job much easier.

After opening the bottom access panel, I found a lot of lint build up which is very flammable. I took my leaf blower and cleaned it all out. Then I just followed the instructions that came with the part. But be careful as the igniter is fragile. I broke the first one...

After turning off the power to the dryer I removed two screws to the bottom front panel and droped it out of the way. I remved three screws hloding the lint screen in place just for better axcess to the element. I then removed the two wires attached to the element and then the two screws holding the element in place. I put everything back together in reverse. I also took the time to clean any dust and lint out.

Removed two hex screws from upper back clips. Removed 2 Phillips screws under lint trap. Used flat head screwdriver to pry up top on front right and left side clips. (FYI: top pry's up off retaining clips in front). Remove two hex screws on right and left front panel. Un-plugged wire harness front right side. Lifted up and removed front panel. This hold the drum in place. Simply removed drum, installed new belt, replaced the two drum wheels and put everything back together the same way I took it apart. 30 Minute project :)

Replaced 4 wheels and new belt

Took the old parts out and installed the new parts in , everything that you sent fit perfect!!!!!

How to repair E1 error/fault on Whirlpool Duet dryer model GEW9200LW0 please watch that video very helpful.

sounded like a pair of shoes was in the tub every time i started it no matter what size the load was. Replaced the back two rollers first and decided to start it to see how it sounded. We were glad. Only the back rollers were bad and the dryer was quietly running again. We would suggest replacing the back rollers first to everyone because the front rollers are more complicated to replace and they may not have to be at all.