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mice had made nests in the insulation wrap in the range
I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.
Replaced igniter and also DSI/direct spark igniter did not fix problem. Called out repairman turned out to be bad gas valve. Replaced that part , now stove works fine.
After reading many forums found that this error happens when trying to clean the oven and there is a failure in the latch motor to lock the oven door. It was suggested 1st to just tunr the breaker off to the over wait and then turn it back on to see if the error would clear by itself. If not then you'll have to do what I did and buy a new Latch Motor and replace it. Fairly easy to do: ) Move oven to get to the back panel ) Disconnect oven from power ) Remove the 8 screws to get the back panel off ) REmove the Latch motor screws (2) and remove the motor after twisting to get the latch rod off ) Put in new latch motor by 1st putting the latch rod in the motor assembly ) Screw the new motor in place ) Replace back panel ) Power on Oven DONE!
Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
Inside brass liner in socket came out when bulb was removed. Apparently had welded itself to the base of the bulb
Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.
I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!
Bake burner did not ignite. Had gas flow, igniter clicked but there was no ignition. Ordered iginiter.
I was able to perform this repair without removing the oven door. Removed cooking racks (2) Removed oven bottom (2 screws), removed flame spreader (2 screws). removed igniter (2 screws - used a 5/16 hex socket wrench). On this model range the lower screw on the igniter is on an angle (about 45 degrees) and very close to the heat reflector pan; patience and perseverance was required to remove it. - do not know if there is a special tool that would help making removal of this screw easier. If it wasn't for this one screw, the repair should take about 15-20 minutes. Replacement of the igniter solved the ignition problem.
After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.
Found that the two screws securing the bottom had rusted away allowing me to just lift the old bottom out. The new one fit in place exactly and really did not need the screws. Done in 2 minutes.
Followed youtube instructions: lifted clips on door hinges, removed door. removed screws, removed rear cover, replaced right hinge. reassembled door. caution: door handle will fall off when top two screws are removed. Alignment of screws is some what difficult, requires awl. Replace door, return locking clips to forward position, check door for operation.