WED5540SQ0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Pulled the back panel. Removed the connectors from the thermal fuse and checked the to see if it was good with ohm meter. Then checked the thermostat next the fuse on the left side. Then did the same thing with the thermostats at the top and bottom of the heater box on the right side if you are looking from the back of the dryer. Then check the heater element for any opens, this is where the problem was. ordered the part from this site and it took to remove the one screw at the top of the heater box and the whole heater box comes out. then removed the 2 screws on the sides and pulled the old one out and put the new one in the same way. It takes about 10 to 15 minutes to do and the dryer was back up and running. I also checked the you tube video series.

watched the online video on the Partselect site which was very informative and straight forward. replaced the belt, tensioner, and two drum rollers (all included in the maintenance kit, (along with small hardware parts)). put it all back together, and VIOLA!!!!!! super quiet like the day we bought it!!! Thanks!!!

Watch the video you sent me, and every thing fell into place

My husband followed your video

First off, I was somewhat misled by the website and ordered the wrong parts. I entered my model number and ordered the maintainance kit. The info said it was good for Whirlpool, Maytag and others. I also watched the video which is apparently the Whirlpool. So, the wrong parts arrived. The PartSelect peeple were very helpful in getting me the right parts and getting them delivered promptly. I then found the proper video, watched that and did the repair. Be aware that all models have subtle differences. Mine had two long screws in the bottom of the door frame not shown in the video. I also had a little trouble with the pulley spring. I removed the assembly and then got it all back together ok. Then I lost one of the door hinge screws. It evaporated. The replacement part was like $4 so I used one from the local HD and all is well.

I reviewed the on-line video (which was very good by the way) and read the instructions that came with the thermal cut-off kit. Replacement of the upper thermostat was a piece of cake, very straight-forward; just remove the old & replace with the new. The instructions for replacing the lower thermostat were a little confusing because my dryer did not have the orange wire coming from the wiring harness, but after looking carefully at the old thermostat and how it was connected, I finally figured out how the jumper wire was to be connected and successfully installed the lower unit. Bottom line...the dryer works like new. Much cheaper than calling the repairman! Thanks PartSelect!

Unplug the dryer, take off the rear panel with a nut driver, remove the old heating element (3 screws). remove the thermostat attached to the element, put the thermostat on the new element and install the new element with old screws. re install the back panel with old screws and you are done. Plug it in and it's ready to go!

I watched to replacement video from the website and followed. I did use the tip of a small knife to get the connector to come loose on the old switch. It was a really easy repair.

removed back cover 9 screws , 2 screws on heating element and it pulled out ,3wiers and the new one went in. thermal fuse, was one screw and two wiers and I was done.

After watching your instuctional video I removed the back plate removed old wired and unscrewed the part couldn't have been easier. I have never worked on a dryer in my life and am female :). The hardest part was turning off and unhooking the gas line and again after watching a video on how to do it all went well.

I watched the repair expert on you tube. Went to my dryer and took out the heating element, inspected it, and found a broken element wire. Ordered a new element and since I was in there I also replaced the high limit thermostat. Parts select made it easy and my dryer works great again. Thank you.

For the door switch: I watched the supplied video first. Unplugged the dryer from the electrical outlet. Lifted lid to lint filter and removed 2 screws. Then wedged a putty scraper between the top lid and the front of the dryer, about an inch from each edge and pushed the scraper in and then up to loosen the catch. Did this on both ends. Lifted the lid and then opened the dryer door and removed 2 scews to the door switch. Then I pried off the plug from the door switch. There is a small tab in the center on each side you have to press down to get the plug apart. I installed the new door switch by pushing the two plug ends together and then put the door switch in the opening where the old one was and screwed it back on. I closed the lid and screwed the 2 screws back in by the lint filter opening. For the Push to Start Switch: I removed the top rear cover with the 1/4 nut driver. Pulled off the knob on the front side of the dryer. Pushed down on the tab that was at the top of the switch housing from the inside of the dryer and then had to turn it a little so it would fit thru the opening. Then I unplugged it and got the new switch and plugged it together and inserted it in the opening and turned it about a quarter turn and pressed it in a little until the tab was secured. Put the knob back on and then screwed the back cover back on. Good to go. Works like a charm. Was very easy to repair and I am a woman, so now anyone can do it. :)

Removed top and front of dryer. Removed drum. Removed old rollers from spindles. Installed new rollers and new retainer triangles. Replaced drum. Re-installed front and top.

I made it very difficult. I didn't research the repair. My back is old. It's easier if you just You Tube a video. The top roller you have to take drum completely out. The bottom one, The one that failed for me, you can actually do it without taking anything apart. Access it at bottom back, two holes. I do not have small hands, it would have been easier. Channel Locks inside, 9/16th socket outside. That will loosen main axle. Then use short screwdriver or socket driver on small bracket connected to bottom of unit. Mine had one screw holding it in. Easy bottom fix. I don't really recommend replacing top till it needs it. You can only buy them by the pair too. You will be ready when time comes. I found top roller didn't actually need replacing, did it cause I had it all apart. Don't fix if not broke, right? Trust, BUT, Verify. Smaller hands, would have helped me. All I got.

after replacing my heating element, my dryer still wasn't heating. So i replaced the thermal cut-off unit. from ease of finding the part, to ordering and the instructional videos...this was a no-brainer.thanx guys!!