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WDF730PAYW4 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

All Instructions for the WDF730PAYW4
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The soap placed in the soap dispenser was not released during a full cycle.
1) Symptom: The soap dispenser did not open up during a cycle, and a soapy mess was present after completion of the cycle.
2) Looked on the WEB site for spare Kitchenaid parts, and with the model and serial number inside the door found the diagram related to the soap dispenser (which was on the Inner Door Parts page).
3) Unscrewed the bottom portion of the door (3 philips screws on each side). You do not need to unscrew the top portion.
4) Noted that the soap dispenser lever is controlled by a solenoid relay.
5) Disconnected the power to the dishwasher (I did this on the power panel: I believe it is code that a separate circuit is used for a dishwasher).
6) Then I disconnected the connection to the soap dispenser (there is a little lever at the bottom to release the connection). Then used an ohmmeter to check for continuity of the coil. Since there was no continuity, it was pretty obvious that the solenoid was defective. It is an expensive part, so double checking is important.
7) I was not absolutely certain the the electronic control module was defective as well. This is also an expensive part. To verify this, I connected an AC voltmeter to the connector, re-connected power to the dishwasher and started to run a cycle (just close the door – you do not have to add the door front). I found that immediately after the water had taken it that approx. 95 volts AC was present. That suggested that voltage was being applied. However as I found out later, this conclusion was not correct. The true reason was that no load was present, and therefore the voltage reading could not be considered reliable. In this case, this step was not essential.
8) At this time I was convinced that I needed to replace the soap dispenser and that replacement of the electronic control module was likely not necessary.
9) Obtained a new soap dispenser assembly.
10) Disconnect the power to the dishwasher.
11) Removing the old soap assembly was not difficult using an appropriately sized socket.
12) Just put the new soap assembly back in its place was no problem. Note however how the flap is positioned: the slot on the top reaches the tab on the soap dispenser. Only one side has the hole for the top size screw and the other side just goes between the door backing and the soap dispenser.
13) Reconnect the wiring assembly to the connector of the soap dispenser.
14) Re-connect the power to the dishwasher.
15) Close the dishwasher door and leave the panel still off. Run a cycle and monitor that there are no leaks and everything runs normal. Every now and then I opened the door and noted the position of the release lever. In this way I found out that later in the cycle the soap is released. I could not find in the documentation when in the cycle it actually occurred. Anyway, I let the cycle conclude and at the end I found that the soap dispenser had opened up during the cycle.
16) Put the outside panel back on. Repair successful and the lady very happy!
17) I hope this is helpful to others.
Parts Used:
Dispenser
  • Henriecus from Edmonds, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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The soap dispenser latch broke and the soap door would not stay closed.
Electricity to the dishwasher was turned off at the electrical panel. I removed two screws from the bottom plate where the dishwasher meets the floor. I removed another bottom plate that had insulation attached to it that was behind the first plate. I also removed 6 screws from the inside of the dishwasher front panel. The screws are located along the edge of each side of the front panel. Once these screws were removed I was able to remove the front panel that acts as a cover for the outside of the dishwasher. With the front panel removed I noticed there was a bracket holding the soap dispenser in place attached by 6 very small screws. These had to be carefully removed so as not to strip them. With the bracket removed it appeared I could pop out the soap dispenser unit from the dishwasher door. However there were two small metal tabs that kept the soap dispenser in place. These needed to be gently pried up to free the dispenser unit. Before removing the old soap dispenser I unplugged the electrical connector that was attached to it. Once the old soap dispenser was removed I popped the new one in until the little metal tabs clicked it into place. The electrical connector was attached to the new soup dispenser. I re-attached the bracket that held the soap dispenser in place using the 6 teeny tiny screws and attached the front facing cover by putting the 6 edge screws back in. The two panels found near the bottom of the unit were re-attached. Turned the juice back on from the electrical panel and ran the dishwasher as a test. I monitored for leaks and functionality of the new soap dispenser. Repair complete.
Parts Used:
Dispenser
  • Michael from Boyds, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Dish washer was leaking from the motor.
The repair was somewhat difficult because I needed to replace the sump and everything is connected to the sump. This motor that needed to be replaced has a stem that goes up into the sump and is sealed by a gasket. Well the gasket wore out and for some reason that gasket is fixed to the sump. Water started leaking down into the motor and fried it. So long story short took pictures of everything before disconnecting and replaced everything with ease. The sump was a bit of a pain to get back in but it's all up and running just fine now.
Parts Used:
Motor Sump
  • William from Ashburn, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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hose had a hole and leaked
I pulled the dishwasher out from the countertop rolled it to the side removed old clamps and hose installed new hose in kind used different hose clamps than provided turned up right pushed back in ran a cycle while looking underneath with a flashlight and saw no leaks and dishwasher has been back in use for a week now.Chris
Parts Used:
HOSE
  • Christopher from Delaware City, DE
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Operator error
I opened the package. I removed the cap. I screwed the cap in place. Voila!
Parts Used:
Rinse-Aid Dispenser Cap
  • Nancy from Sierra Vista, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Dishes did not dry
After attempting to change the "high limit switch" to no avail, I researched further and found that doing a reset/reboot cured the problem.The instructions for the high limit thermostat were a bit off, as there was no screw to remove, only a spring like bracket that I did not try to figure out. The work area is so tight if the dishwasher is not removed and tilted that I thought it best to look for alternatives prior to pulling it out and disconnecting power and water. So ... voila, it's fixed with a reset only. Reset is accomplished by pushing two buttons 5 times. "high Temp Scrub then Heat Dry, high temp scrub then heat dry etc, until you click them both 5 times.It will go through cycles for a few minutes, then after done, run the dishwasher as normal and test if fixed. There are a few different ways to do it depending on the model.
Parts Used:
Rubber Washer High Limit Thermostat
  • William from Carmel, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Machine would shut down during the wash cycle.
I read information on this website about the function of the high limit thermostat. I found that it was the problem by disconnecting the two wires on the thermostat and straight wiring to bypass it. This allowed the machine to work properly so I ordered the high limit thermostat. To replace the part I used a screwdriver to remove the instrument panel and replaced the high limit thermostat by disconnecting the two wires from the old thermostat and connecting the wires to the new thermostat. I then replaced the instrument panel. My machine is working properly again..
Parts Used:
High Limit Thermostat
  • Larry from Fort Oaks, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Heater Element burned out
Disconnected the power. Removed the dishwasher mount screws from under the counter. Slid the Dishwasher out. Removed the two wires. Loosened and removed the two heater support nuts. Removed the heater element from inside the dishwasher. Placed the new heater element inside. Tightened the nuts. Attached the wires. Pushed the dishwasher back in place. Replaced the under-counter support screws. Reset the diagnostics message on the dishwasher front panel (This may not be necessary for some) - (Press HI TEMP > AIR DRY > HI TEMP > AIR DRY). All works great. Thank you PartSelect.com for fast shipping and great pricing.
Parts Used:
Dishwasher Heating Element
  • Travis from Los Angeles, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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cap was not tightened correctly melted on heating element
put new on and tightened correctly -was nice to get the right part the 1st time !
Parts Used:
Rinse-Aid Dispenser Cap
  • Ronald from Pearland, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Dishes were not dry, flashing lights.
Pulled the dishwasher out, removed 2 wires and 2 plastic nuts, removed old heating element, installed new heating element, applied nuts, connected 2 wires pushed the dishwasher back in, drank beer (Per instructions on email - really liked).
Parts Used:
Dishwasher Heating Element Rubber Washer
  • Randy from Port Byron, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
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Not drying
As directed online
Parts Used:
Dishwasher Heating Element
  • Todd from Huntsville, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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New Part to replace broken part
It was very easy to replace the part in the bottom basket of the dishwasher, it was easy to find the part on your website due to the great schematic visuals. Thank you, B. Arias
Parts Used:
TINE-ROW
  • Blanca from San Marcos, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Melted Rinse Aid Cap due to not in locked position during dishwasher operation.
Ordered Rinse Aid Cap and received the next day. Placed in the dishwasher Rinse Aid Cap position and locked in. A perfect fit.
Parts Used:
Rinse-Aid Dispenser Cap
  • Charles from Louisville, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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rinse aid dispenser leaked
cap was replaced
Parts Used:
Rinse-Aid Dispenser Cap
  • Roger from St. Clair Shores, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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All Instructions for the WDF730PAYW4
226 - 239 of 239