Lower dishwasher rack was deteriorating (extensive rust) and needed to be replaced
The lower dish rack rolls directly out of the dishwasher without problem - there is no permanent attachment. The new rack comes as a kit, which includes the 4 required dish rack wheels (Part # 6 in the diagram). One part (only) from the original dish rack needs to be removed and re-installed on the new rack - the upper spray arm tower (Part #5 in the diagram). That is easily removed from the original rack with a 1/8 counterclockwise turn, to disengage the 'feet', and installed on the new rack with a 1/8 clockwise turn. The kit is designed to allow for use on multiple models, so there are 'extra' parts left over, after it is used for the DU8500XX-2 dishwasher. These can be discarded.
based on advice here, concluded the problem was likely that the part "Valve-Inlt" was defective. Our dishwasher intake line is copper and had already developed a partial kink from sometime in the past, so I had to be careful. The final connection to the new part had to happen in place: very close to the floor and underneath, because I didn’t want to stress the copper line. Plus, the shutoff was defective, and it was always leaking while I connected. Awkward. As I was threading on, it started to look like it might be cross-threaded, so I stopped and reversed. Slid the washer back out and disconnected the drain line so I could tip the dishwasher u and inspect. It was going on cross-threaded. Not hard to happen on a metal to a plastic connection. To solve, I carefully made very small bends in the copper inlet line until when it would later be brought up underneath to connect to the inlet valve, it would be as perfectly aligned as possible. This worked. As I tightened, it went a little easier and the leak stopped. A good moment. Tightened a bit more, but didn’t want to overdo it as that can cause other problems. Now the moment of truth: let’s run it. DISHWASHER WORKED AGAIN. Runs fine now and we are glad to have it back. Was satisfying I could do this on my own. The advice and guides here made that possible. Thank you.
When the door was in the closed position there was no power to the unit. The control panel buttons would not put the dishwasher in any cycle. the panel lights did not work.her
I first verified that there was 120 volt line voltage getting to the unit. I removed the outer door panel by removing the 10 torx screws located around the panel on the tub side of the door. Two of the screws are longer so note there location for reassembly. The door handle can now be removed. Pull the outer door panel away from the inner panel and remove the connector to the control board. Set the outer door aside. Remove the connector to the door latch.The latch is snapped in position at the top side. Pry using a screw driver to release. Snap new latch in position. Snap on connector, Reassemble door by first reconnecting the control panel connector. install plastic door handle. Mate door to inner panel. Note interlock tabs between outer door and inner panel near the bottom area. Install the 10 screws. The two longer screws are at the top holding the latch and handle.
I located the water inlet valve underneath. After moving the dishwasher out from the cabinet, I tilted it . Then I disconnected the black hose with the pliers . Using the adjustable wrench I unscrewed the water feed to the valve . I then unscrewed the valve from the frame and disconnected the wire plug by unlocking and slipping it away from the valve. To install I did all this in reverse.
Rinse aid constantly leaking from fill cap; hard water takes its toll on all seals and gaskets
1. open dishwasher door to horizontal position 2. remove old rinse aid cap by turning counter-clockwise and pulling up 2. install new rinse aid cap by inserting (rotate as necessary to align guide features) and turning clockwise to close. Done!
