WDB745REB0 Westinghouse Dishwasher - Instructions

After reading the consumer reviews (which is a great tool by the way), I learned the bottom door gasket came out by pulling inwards toward the center of the dishwasher, NOT to the left or right. I finally found the slot in the door and inserted the new gasket in less than 5 minutes. The reason why I listed a longer repair time is because I started the machine to check for leaks. Unfortunately, I still had a minor leak and I believe it is due to the dishwasher being unlevel. I changed from "Normal Wash" to "EcoWash" and no leaks. Still need to level it. Since the house had been vacant for a long period of time, I think the original gasket may have dry-rotted. Overall, smooth process and great opportunity to learn a little about the simplicity of dishwashers. While your there, you may want to remove the bottom spray arm and clean the debris filters. Pretty disgusting...

The lower rack was very easy...just needed to transfer existing utensil baskets and roll it in place.However, The upper rack was not identically made to the original rack so could not transfer some of the extra feature pieces onto the new upper rack, as the rack wires were 'woven' differently, rendering these pieces from my old rack useless, as it was impossible to line them up, so precious time was wasted fiddling with that trying to see why they wouldn't line up. I did manage to remove and transfer the upper sprayer arm to the replacement basket, though.

took the old one off, replaced with new one put arm back on machine. Very, very simple.

The left-side dishwasher door spring snapped. The door was then noticeably heavy to open and close. To investigate the problem, I shut off the circuit breaker and the water feed. I removed the two screws that secure the top of the dishwasher to the counter, so I could pull out the unit and see the door springs. (TIP: remove the bottom metal panel as well to see if you have a flexible or rigid pipe for hot water. If you have a rigid pipe like I do you might want to be careful pulling the unit forward.) With the unit pulled forward I could see the snapped spring; it had actually shot up and was wedged between the unit and the cabinet. To to the repair, I attached the new spring to the door first. Then I closed the door so the spring was slack and used pliers to attach it to the bottom of the unit. (To access the bottom of the unit, you need to remove the metal panel at the bottom, as mentioned above.) I used the other spring as a comparison as to where to attach.

This is a case of weak OEM design. Substantial (cup) weight placed on the rack will ultimately cause these wheels to break under load stress. My fix went slightly beyond the design by installing 8 cents worth of washers between the wheel and the screw head. That way any slack was reduced so that the wheels were less stressed at an angle. The rack now sits square and the wheels more true than design. I picked up some lock washers at local hardware store and flattened them out to fit smooth. The parts supplied by PartSelect were perfect fits to OEM. This is a truly easy repair. If your top rack keeps falling off the guides due to broken tub wheels this will take care of the problem. I will add that the parts that you can obtain through PartSelect are adequate without improvising. I just went for a more robust fix to the original design with additional washers. Hope this is helpful.

Gasket at the bottom of the door had dried and become hard. Old gasket slides straight out the bottom of the door, and new gask slides into it's place. There's a registration notch in the gasket to make sure it's aligned correctly. It's really very simple. Removal of the outer door skin is suggested to make sure the gasket goes into it's slot, but it isn't strictly necessary if you dont mind getting on your back and feeling around as you put the new gasket into place

I removed the screws around the perimeter of the door. This allowed me to easily unscrew the small phillips screws that attached the old dispenser from inside the door. I popped in the new one and screwed everything back together. It now works like new.

Open dishwasher door. Using phillips screwdriver, remove the lower two screws, this allows the outside pannel to come off and expose the Dispenser's back side. Remove the two electric wires remembering where they go, ie: white inside red outside. Remove the six screws holding Dispenser in place. Push Dispenser through to inside. Put new Dispenser in and reverse proceedure. This was actually easier than I expected. A novice can handle this repair. Good luck. Oh, when putting Dispenser screws back in, start them all first before tightening.

I ordered a new upper spray arm which arrived 2 days later with standard shipping. The old arm unclips by squeezing the two plastic clips--the arm falls right out. Then you unscrew the big plastic nut holding to its shaft. Put the new one on the shaft, screw the not back on--hand tight only--and push the whole thing back up into the two clips--done! The whole thing was done in less than one minute!

Pull out old slowly insert new. Done.

Remove bottom door gasket and install new gasket in reverse order, take out door gasket and install new gasket into groove, start at one end and work to other end then cut to fit. No leaks until a week later, door may not have been closed firmly.

I ordered the detergent dispenser and was told it would take about 5 days to get it. I received it in 2 days. I first flipped the breaker switch to the dishwasher to avoid pulling it out to pull the plug. Opening the door to access the inside and removed the 2 lower screws on the side. This let the front panel be slid down and removed. I removed the 2 wires to the dispenser module. A flat-head screwdriver helped to loosen them. I then removed the 6 screws to remove the module. I reversed the process to install the new one.

Removed the old rack, removed the spinning center thing from the old rack, put it on the new rack - and presto.

The replacement basket fit perfectly.

Turned power off dishwasher. Opened front door. Removed 6 phillips screws. Lifted cover to expose handle/switch assembly. Removed 2 torx screws. Exchanged power connectors from broken assembly to new assembly. Reversed dis-assembly sequence. Turned powered back on.