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Noticed small tear in hose bellows and leak during reassembly
I already had the top of the washer open, from previous disassembly to clean the front loader seal, and when I ran a trial load, noticed a small 1/4" tear in the hose bellows that attaches to the drum.
Very simple repair, remove the existing hose by loosening the clamps, paying attention to their orientation. Install the existing hose clamps onto the new hose, install and tighten the hose clamps.
5 minute job, if the washer top is off (which is also simple).
While replacing the tub support (spider) I chose to replace the gasket.
The spider repair and the tub seal replacement are fairly complicated, and time-consuming, but manageable with patience. I viewed the youtube video that showed the process, which gave me confidence. It entails disassembling the machine and removing quite a few major pieces. Take care with the numerous screws and bolts, and be patient and you can be successful. Plan a lot of time for all the steps. The hardest part is putting the door bellows back on.
The video from PartSelect showed removing the retaining ring from the rubber washer tub boot to then allow access the door lock located behind the boot for replacement. That ring can sometimes be a real pain to put back on. This can be avoided altogether!
It's much easier to access the door lock switch by removing the two retaining screws on the top cover of the washer found in the back of the machine. Remove the top cover and you can then reach down to remove the wiring connector, unscrew the two phillips screws on the front of the door latch and remove the door lock. Put the new switch on in reverse order; plug in the connector, replace all screws and the top cover, and you are done! This method took than 10 minutes from start to finish.
Please note that the washer should be unplugged from power while working on any electrical component.
ridiculously easy. removed the door gasket ring clamp. separated the gasket from the face. unscrewed the lock, removed the wire(gently). replaced the wire on the new lock. replaced the lock. replaced door gasket and ring clamp. washed clothes. Note- I had called a repair service and was given a $360 estimate in addition to the $130 dollar service charge. All total- $50 dollar part(with shipping), less than 45 min total time and I'm no mechanic!
I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.
Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.
Cold water inlet valve was leaking where solenoid attaches to valve body.
Hardest part of the job was getting the washer away from the wall. :) Disconnect power & water Remove top panel, two screws at back Remove two screws holding valve to washer body Use pliers to loosen and pull back spring clamps on three water tubes Remove tubes by twisting and pulling Reverse process to install new valve.
I am convinced that the original valve began leaking because I had heard water hammer for years as that valve opened and closed during operation. I bought two water hammer arrestors (less than $30) that attach inline with the inlet hoses and I think that will prevent the problem from recurring.
Slide out double stack unit, take the back off, stand on my head and reach in to remove hose clamo off pump hose. slide new hose on and clamp, but back on, and slide washer/dryer stack back in to place.
1. Unplugged electric chord from wall. 2. Pulled washer out into open area to get behind it. 3. Turned off hot and cold water faucets 4. Used channel locks to remove hot water and cold water hoses from back of washer. Dropping hose into a bucket to catch water from hose. 5. Removed screws (Phillips screw driver) holding top to back of washer. 6. Pulled back on the top and lifted off washer. 7. Arranged new intake valve to mock location and setting of old intake valve. 8. Using Phillip screw driver, unscrewed old intake valve from back of washer. 9. Unconnected wiring from old intake valve. These were easily identified and not needed to mark left right center. 10. Using pliers, pinched hose clips and moved to middle of the hose. Did this for all 3 hoses. 11. Removed hose from old intake and connected to same location on new intake. Repeated for all 3 hoses. 12. Using pliers, pinched the clips and moved to the end of the new intake valve. Did the for all 3 hoses. 13. Using Phillips screw driver, screwed in the new intake valve where the old intake valve was located. 15. Inserted the wiring connects into new intake valve. 16. Reconnected water hoses back into washer machine (after inspecting and cleaning plastic strainer traps) 17. Turned on water faucets 18. Plugged in washer. 19. Ran an empty load for a cycle. 20. Did not fail. 21. Reattached top to washer. Laying down an inch from front and push forward to hear a click or lock. Then screwed in the 2 screws. 22. Pushed washer back into original location.
Watched video on U-Tube , unplug power cord, turn off water, take top off washing machine, remove water hoses, unscrew parts, remove hoses with pliers, install replacement parts, put all back together. Does not leak any more !
I followed the video and it was quite simple. There was an extra sheet metal screw at the bottom of the front panel which kept it from coming free of the three tabs. On the two pump wite connectors I made a mental note that the black wires were on top. The repair also fixed the lack of water flow through the degeterent dispenser. I was afraid of putting the tub seal back in place as a pro struggled with it when it was new and under warranty. It really was no problem at all. Take some phone pics along the way boosted my confidence.
