WC282 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the old gasket. It was easy to "pop out" the parts that held the gasket in place with a regular flat blade screwdriver. Becareful not to chip the porclien (sp). Any of the tabs that broke off I just pushed them through and can take them out if I ever need to remove the front of the door. Works fine and no leaks. Clean the area of the old gasket so the new gasket will have a good seal. End of story.

cleaned lime and calcium build up off of gasket
and it stopped the leak . yea . parts select was very helpful and said i could return the unused
gasket. . this is a good place to get parts.thanks larry

So I decided to stick in some CLR to see if it would clean it up. Well it got considerably worse. So ordered the new faucet adapter, threaded adapter and the two washers, due to not knowing what i would need. It came like unbelievably fast considering it was Christmas time. Unscrewed the old one from the faucet, screwed on the new one. hooked up the dishwasher, watched it for a bit for any leaks at the connection, and it worked great! I seem to have more water pressure too coming from the sink faucet. Thank you so much for the quickness in sending out my order! -- Scott

All I had to do was take apart the door by removing a few screws. Then ripped the old gasket off. I then lined all the tabs up to make sure it was going to fit and then started pulling them through with needle nose pliers. When the door was reassembled I checked the plastic piece where the gasket ends in the tub and found some loose screws that needed to be tightened. After that I ran a few cycles and it does not leak any more.

Easy to change. Just pull firmly on old gasket, clean surface with soapy water. Align tabs on new gasket, push into place a tap firmly with handle of a screwdriver and taps pop into place. Was done in about 40 minutes.

I would recommend getting the entire unit. I could have replaced the electrical component only, but the other parts were deteriorating.

I removed the 4 screws in the lower side of the door and removed the front.

I lossened the 6 screws holding the detergent cup. This was done with a small hex wrench.

I replaced the dispenser and connected the wires back onto the electrical sensor.

I put the front back on the door and tested the repair. Worked fine

I will be replacing the door gasket next. I found evidence of leakage when I removed the front of the door to replace the detergent cup.

Removed the lower Front panel, removed the (2) hoses from the Pump Assembly, Removed the Plastic Sprayer Recirculating Tube, than removed the (6) screws that hold the pump assembly in the washer basin, removed the assembly from the unit.
Disassembled the pump unit (6) screws, removed and replaced the (2) water impellers and bottom seal, reassembled everything and all is well. This machine is 22 years old and my local parts supplier said that parts were no longer available for it because of its age, well I have news for him PartSelect.com has any part I need!

The repair was fairly simple. The hardest part was figuring out if this was the part I needed or not. After studying the inerds of the dishwasher door and the detergent cup mechanism, it seemed like this part would do the trick.

Here's how the mechanism works . . . the plastic stopper at the end of the bi-metallic strip latches the detergent cup in place. If these strips are bent away from the spring mechanism / plastic cam enough, the stopper will not latch on the cam (as was the case with mine). So, I needed to replace the bi-metallic strip. This part comes along with a new cam and spring.

The actual replacement of the parts is simple. The parts come with pretty good installation instructions.

Good luck . . .

First I shut off the water intake. Then disconnected it from the valve assembly. Then disconnected the hose on the other side of the valve assembly. Then removed and replaced the valve assembly, disconnecting and re-connecting the 4 wires attached to the 2 solenoids. Then re-connected the water intake and hose. Then turned the water back on.

Then, noticing it leaking slightly, had to do it all over and include a small amount of teflon tape on the brass fitting that screwed into the valve assembly.

Phew.

Remove bottom cover.
Put the belt on the large pulley and stretch it about 5 times to make it larger. Remove the belt from the large pulley and put it on the small pulley at the motor. Stretch it to left side of the large pulley and make sure the belt is on partial of the pulley's groove then rotate the large pulley forward. The pulley will pull the belt into the groove by itself.

Pull old gasket off (30 seconds), take panel screws out of front panel and control panel, carefully lower control panel push tabs thru holes from inside door, once all tabs in, push door closed and take pliers and pull tabs until they lock into place, put panel back together. not that difficult, my wife and I had it back in working order in approx 30min.

Put spring in plastic bushing, snapped into door arm and hooked opposite end of spring in first hole. Repeated process on opposite side of door. Did the above without moving the dishwasher from installed position.

I opened the door and pulled the old gasket out using a flathead screwdriver to pry up the difficult to remove areas. I cleaned the area with a damp cloth and place the new gasket in the slots. The entire process including the cleaning took no more than 10 minutes. It was so easy. By the way, I had the part in my hands 2 days after ordering it. I am very impressed with the service.

Belt seemed too small at first to fit, but turning the power module pulley while holding the belt enabled it to slip in properly. Didn't help that there's not much space to work.

On my maytag portable dishwasher I had to remove three side screws on right lower panel,and two lower screws to free up panel. I had to pry the panel away from the body to get axes to the springs. Replaced springs as instructed reinstalled all hardware, finished.