W205KGA Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

everything pretty much just unbolted real easy. the parts come with a nice set of instructions. you don't need to use the special hub removal tool. just take a small piece of wood and smack it on the ear of the hub to the left counter clockwise. it might be tough but just keep smacking it till it comes loose. then install it in reverse. simple job. you also might need some big vise scrips to get ahold of the springs real good to get them off and back on...

I found the instructions on www.ehow.com about how to remove the shell of the washer so I could find what was going on with the washer and why it would smell like burning metal. I found it was the Drain Pump with Pulley Assembly P/N: PS2347187. It was easy to replace and saved $$$$ from having to purchase a new washer or call a repairman or women.

pURSUANT TO THE VIDEO PROVIDED BY PARTSELECT, I DISCONNECTED POWER CORD, HOT AND COLD WATER HOSES. ALSO, REMOVED DRAIN HOSE FROM DRAIN PIPE CONNECTION. LAY THE WASHER ON ITS SIDE REMOVED THE PULLEY BELT THEN FOLLOWED THE VIDEO TO REMOVE DUST COVER, C-CLIP, CAM, PULLEY, THRUST BEARING ALONG WITH ASSOCIATED WASHERS FROM THE TRANSMISSION SHAFT.INSTALLATION WAS THE REVERSE AS SHOWN IN THE INSTRUCKIONS PROVIDED IN THE KIT.

we followed the video instruction that was given,on how too replace the part of the snugger. it worked really well. we are pleased with everything.

I followed the video but didn't remove the motor. Instead I lifted the tub through the top. I also didn't have longer screws with that thread, so I used slightly smaller diameter screws with nuts on the end and it worked great.

Easy as pie but had to cut one with hack saw to remove as it would not unscrew. Rust was the problem. Hack saw was the cure. Otherwise repair would have taken 5 minutes Washer now works as it did as a new appliance.

I replaced the brake spring(not really necessary) and the snubber ring.I also installed a new thrust bearing kit,but the problem turned out to be a bad transmission.I found a good working used one at a local junk yard and so far it is working great.Your how to videos were very helpful in getting the job done properly.Thanks very much!

Used Putty Knife to release a tab on left split of cover/lid assembly lifting up slightly to release the tab, then I repeated the same on the right side. With the belt already flung off of the unit, I saw the 2 screws inside left/right top corners holding the front cover On. I tilted it forward and up and released from two clips on the bottom of the unit. With the front cover removed I saw the pump on the lower right side of the tank. 3 screws and 2 hoses hold the pump in place. Once pump was removed reversed how it was taken apart.

I followed the directions online, but they don't talk about two difficulties with this model. The first is removing the drive belt. This is CRUCIAL! Tilt the dryer backwards, and remove the belt from the pulleys. When putting it back on, when the repair is complete put it on the two smaller pulleys first, and then the large pulley. The other difficulty that is not addressed with this model is accessing the suspension springs. If you choose not to remove the entire housing, I would use a wooden block (2x4 works great) to act as a lever for the vicegrips. I may be weak, but I have a bruised forearm that would have been avoided if I had thought of the wooden block earlier.

Watch video, fallowed it's instructions which made it a "piece of cake"

I removed the belt and pully form under the washer. Lefted the top cover, removed the hardware above the tub, took the front cover panel off to gain access to the tub. Used pliers to remove the springs. Lifted the tub up high enough to install the snubber ring. After putting tht washer back together and doing the first the load the washer stopped banging.

Remove the access panel on the lower back of the washer, the pump is on the rear left side and is help in place by 3 screws. Remove both hoses with pliers and the screws and the pump is out. Install the new pump and connect the hoses and lean the washer back to connect the belt on the bottom.

Examined the washer and determined the hoses were fine. Removed the access panel from the back of the washer, pulled out the drain pump. Looking inside the pump while turning the pulley I was able to determine nothing inside the pump was moving. Once the pump was pulled apart (4 screws) it was obvious the wheel inside the pump broke off. We ordered the new part on sunday (from partselect) and it was sitting on my door step wednesday. That's fast. 30 Minutes later everything was hooked back up and we were back in business. One last point: when putting the drive belt back on, put the belt on the 2 small pulleys first, then put it on the large pulley last. Thanks to partselct !

Just followed the video! 1. Removed the belt. 2. Removed the back (the video said the water pump was in the front, but mine was in the back), 3. Removed the hoses (using bucket and towels to collect the water, 4. Removed the three screws that hold the pump in place, 5. Put in the new pump, 6. Connected the hoses, 7. Reinstalled the belt, and 8. Fretted as the first load of clothes were washed...

I had some expert advise on what the problem was so that made it easier to consentrate on the fix. I was surprised to find so much information on this web page. Getting the right part ordered was also very easy. The repair instructions given by other people was all correct, tiling the machine to get the belt off, removing the back access panel, was all correct and made it easy. The hard part was getting the machine out of the small wash room and into the garage where I had room to work on it. A good dolly and a wooden ramp came in handy . A word of advice woud be to operate the hot & cold water faucets on & off every year or so to be sure they work easily when the time comes, maybe an emergency. After 12 years I was worried my valves would give me a problem. (.they didnt).