W205KAC Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

There was a crack in the black rubber hose attached to the water inlet flume assembly, and the assembly itself was cracked and falling apart. 1) Turned off water. 2) Lifted top cover up (pry up with flat screwdriver). 3) Disconnected hose. 4) Trimmed hose above the crack. 5) Replaced "spring" -type hose clamp with small automotive-style clamp. 6) Unbolted flume from under lid (2 sheetmetal screws). 7) Reattached hose to new flume. 8) Reattached flume to underside of lid. 9) Closed lid (light pressure downward required). 10) Turned on water. Total repair time: 10 minutes.

After reading several online posts about this problem on appliance forums and following the suggestions about how to determine what was needed (whether the inner tub turned freely (by hand) in spin mode or not. It didn't which apparently indicates the likely need for a new thrust bearing. I purchased the transmission pulley and bearing kit from Parts Select. I got it the next day, without asking for next day delivery! When I took the old parts off (easy: pull off the plastic cover, remove the circlip and everything falls off the shaft (if you are working with the washer just tipped up. Unfortunately, that was where my easy repair ended. The parts were entirely different! After looking and looking and thinking, I called Parts Select. They informed me that Whirpool, who makes Maytag had redesigned the parts. They didn't look like they would work, but I followed the directions which came with the kit and installed the new parts - three times. The last time the pulley stayed on and the washer spun as it ought. The problem was that even with the smaller of the spacer washers the circlip was extremely difficult to get in its slot. Anyway, now the washer works and I am pleased, even though I spent many hours on what ought to have taken perhaps 1/2 hour.

removed belt motor and tub would turn and pump would not. ordered new pump removed three screws removed pump and reinstalled. washer works like new

Had no problems taking machine apart following online instructions. At first couldn't find snubber ring because it was completely worn away. Once found it was very easy to replace. Only problem with putting back together was getting the first spring back on, after that it was a breeze. Machine up and running.

..watched the video..easy as pie..took longer to figure out what part was making noise than to fix..

turned off the water, drained the water from the machine, pulled it out and removed the back plate on the machine. disconnected all hoses and belts, then removed part. inserted new pump, 3 self tapping screws later the hosed were attached, then the back plate. worked like a champ after that and saved me at least 200 bucks.

We went on line and found the correct part. It arrived in 3 days. said it might take 7. Husband and son dismantled the old plastic outer tub that had been slit by the screwdriver. Put the new one in, and filled the tub up with water to check for leaks. When the water got to the level of the fill line, it started leaking. We pumped the water out and stopped to wait for daylight. Next day we lifted the top of the machine and filled it again...the line that goes to the water level knob...was off. The woman found the leak and put the hose back on. We were semi worried when we read the reviews, but in the daylight, it really wasn't all that difficult to change out the broken tub.

Remove front cover and fastened new pumpin .hooked up hoses pretty easy. The part was easy to order and was shipped really fast. Thanks for your

Took access panel off of back saw that hose had pulled off of tub, thus the rinse water was just running on floor, re attached hose when the rinse cycle finished and the brake stopped the spin it jerked the hose off once again. It had a spring clamp holding it on, so I reinstalled it with a worm/screw clamp, no problems since. Ordered a new hose to have on hand in case. Jim

I pulled the back panel off, removed the belt and three 3/8 nuts holding the pump on.removed pump and installed new one, tests ok. It was easy for me I was a sears tech for two years on laundry equipment, nevertheless with your repair video it would be a breeze for a novice. Thanks for getting my part to me within two days. You guys are the greatest. - Sincerely, Mr Bob Byers

Simply replaced the pump: Disconnected 2 hoses, removed the pulley belt, swapped out the pump, replaced the hoses and belt, good to go !!

Remove 2 hoses and six bolts.replaced the belt and wash again.

Disconnect water, power and drain lines. Tip machine on side and remove drive belt. Release 2 clips retaining the top. A putty knife inserted here will do the job. Remove 2 screws holding the front panel and lift straight up to remove. Remove rear access panel and remove hose from the water pump. Be prepared to collect a bit of water when doing so. Disconnect the small hose attached to the drum at left rear. Using vise grips adjusted to grip them TIGHTLY, remove the 6 springs attaching the drum assembly to the machine base. Tip the machine on it,s side (unless you have an assistant) and remove the drum assembly slowly as you make sure the pulley at the bottom clears the bottom hole. With the drum resting upside down loosen but DO NOT REMOVE the 6 screws securing the dish shaped metal plate that holds the snubber in place. I used a 1/4" drive socket wrench with a short extension, a universal adaptor and a 5/16" socket. The snubber will spin freely can be easily removed when these screws are loosened enough. Clean the area thoroughly and then insert the new snubber. Be sure to center the new part carefully and tighten the 6 screws evenly and firmly. Return the drum to the machine and reinstall the 6 springs by again gripping them FIRMLY with vise grips and lifting them up until they slip into their positions. This is the hardest part of the job, take your time and be careful. I elected not to replace these with new ones as mine were not weak or broken. Connect the pump hose and small hose at the back of the drum. Attach the front panel and top. Replace the belt. Reconnect hoses and power cord. Leave small panel off the back until you run the machine and check for leaks. Good job.

2 screws on each side hold the top of the washer to the front panel,I used a nutdriver to take them out . There are 2 clips on each side at the top of the washer I used a Butter Knife to push the clips in and release the front panel from the top panel ,then slid the front panel out over the bottom clips.I noticed rust in the bearings on the Drain Pump & also noticed alot of water all around the pulley and the belt,not ever having any other problems before figured that was the problem, all hoses were good and it only leaked during the drain process.There are 3 screws that hold the pump in place ,the belt for my particular model is on a swivel system around the motor and the drum just slide motor and the belt comes off,use a set of pliers to unclamp the 2 hoses attatched to the pump.To get to the belt lift washer and slide in something for the washer to rest on.Installing pum is opposite from uninstalling, Good Luck ...

I know nothing about washing machines. Couldn't even find the drive from the motor to the drum until I leaned the machine backwards by chance and found the belt drive underneath. Removed belt and checked freedom of spin on motor, drum, and pump. Pump shaft was bent and frozen. Easy $75 fix saved purchase of a new machine. I had a plastic water spill tray under the washer that did not have a flat surface. This tray did not leave enough clearance for the pump wheel. I think that when the washer would sometimes rock during spin cycle, the pump wheel would hit the drip tray and that's why it eventually bent the shaft. This discovery might help others.