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These access panels are just plastic. My son's big 10 foot stepped into it and busted the holder for the screw. This was the 2nd time we had to replace this part in 4 yrs. I was very glad to find it again.
The easiest way to change this out is to remove the access panel(like the one you purchased) and the metal brace that supports it to the bottom metal access panel. To do this, REMOVE the screws in between the door and access panel. Step 2: LOOSEN screws that connect the metal braces together. You do not need to remove them completely as the middle brace slides up. You should now have the panel and brace together in your hands. Step 3: Using a flat screw driver pry (and I mean pry!) the retainers out of the catch. At this point breaking the old plastic is a better option than bending the metal! Once removed, your ready to swap out the front cover of the panels and put'er back!! Good Luck!
i determined that the impeller was not free. ordered and installed an impeller kit which included a new bushing, which was the culprit. it was a fairly simple fix, needing only to remove the pump housing from the back of the motor. access to the impeller was by removing the screw-in, x shaped connection on the back side of the impeller housing. runs like new again. the fix was far less expensive than a new washer.
Turned off electricity. Removed the interior door cover. Removed door switch. Replaced switches & reversed process. By the way - I am a woman & diagnosised, ordered part & fixed it myself - I have no experience in this field. THANKS for all your information on your site.
removed two hose clamps and old hose. slid new hose on existing fittings on dishwasher drain and disposal and tightened hose clamps. Turned it on for test run.
remove star screws holding inside door panel. remove plastic cover that protects latch assembly. hook one end of spring on stationary pin on inside of slider bar. Hook other end of spring on pin on slider bar. replace cover and door panel.
Replaced door gasget took 5 minutes tops. Ran cycle and still had leak. Called local repair person. After thoroughly checking out the dishwasher and running soapless cycle determined problem to be soap build up over time. He ran a commercial cleaner through a complete pots and pan cycle. No more suds and no more leak repair complete. Did not actually need door gagset but it was super easy to change and delivery service was great.
I watched the video link sent in an email and followed exactly what they did in the video. I removed the star head screws holding the door liner in place. Then removed the protective cover on the inside. I disengaged the component holding the latch in place. I replace the component that holds the latch in place and then snapped the new latch in place. I turned the dishwasher dial until the prongs were fully retracted. I replace the protective cover and then put the door cover back in place. I initially only placed the left bottom star head screw until I was sure that the latch was going to release. I tested that it was working properly by slowly turning the dial on the dishwasher control. Once I knew it was working I replaced the rest of the screws.
water leak at pump house and drive motor shaft interface
after removeing the mounting and trim screws,water lines and associated wiring, the unit slide easily from under the counter then the fun began. After several years of being exposed to the terrible water here the parts had become covered in lyme scale. to make a long story short, most of the parts came out with minor difficulty however the pump motor shaft had corroded and lodged into the pump impellar. This made removal of the pump motor impossible with out cutting off the end of the impellar and driving the pump motor shaft out. This is NOT something you want to do. It seems the engineer who designed the pump motor had it's casing made of plastic. Driving the pump motor shaft out of the impellar caused the back of the motor houseing to break thus rendering the pump motor useless. Lesson: If it becomes necessary to cut off the impellar of in the pump housing you must completely split the impellar in two parts. This I repeat is NOT something you want to do. I recommend replaceing both motor and pump assembly as a unit.
seal was leaking from not being used for over a year
turn off power to unit open the front to remove washer arm and nut turn unit on its front looseing the pump assembly from connections and motor replaced parts reversed order of assembly done cost was much cheaper than other places one place wanted $160.00 another place wanted $130.00 with your parts i fixed it for $61.00 that included two day shipping thanks i will shop here again
First, I checked the ripped box for damage to the dishrack. Fortunately, there was none. Then I looked for the instruction booklet. Unfortunately, there was none. And the parts bag was ripped and I did not know what was supposed to be in it. So, I rechecked the photo of the dishrack on the website and found that either parts were missing or the dishrack was different than illistrated. After a few moments of thought, I realized the latter was the case. I then figured I would have to use some deep thought to do the installation since neither the missing instruction booklet nor the unzoomable photo would help. So, I pulled out the tall thin thingamabob from the old dishrack and put it in the new one though it did not secure as tightly. Then I put the wheel units on just like the old one. What I could not immediately figure out was where the collapsible rack row was mounted. I eventually realized that the rod went into a hole in the wheel units and the latch mounted above one unit. I still have no idea where the two other tan clips go. Though the dishrack is different and thus requires different science to fill it, it appears to do the job.