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A little research told me the hum plus no cooling was either the compressor or the relay. I ordered the new relay and put it in but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up having to buy a new fridge, but it was worth the $30 gamble to see if I could fix it on the cheap and it saved me the money a service call would've cost. Pretty easy installation, just in a tight space on my model.
I unsnapped the old clips from the bar, installed one end cap to freezer door, clipped other end cap to bar, slid bar into end cap installed in door then snapped other end cap into place. Repeated for second shelf bar as those end caps were broken as well. No tools were needed.
Remove the screws and pivot handle. Push handle downward and it slides off the screw head sticking out of door. To replace handle, just work in reverse. It Didn’t take more than 3-4 minutes to do the whole job.
After realizing the engineering on this dryer was different, I was able to access the temperature control thermostat through the front, along the side of the heating element. Several philips screws hold the front on, removing them allows you to take front panel off. At that point the heating element is below. I took a picture of the wires, so that when I started removing them, it would be easy to reconnect. Two screws hold the heating element in place, upon removing the heating element housing pulls gently forward and out, be careful of the wires, the thermostat is the second thing connected to the housing of the heating element. Two more philips screws hold the housing to the bottom of the dryer. Two wires are removed from thermostat, which is also held in place by two philips screws. Remove wires, one at a time and place on thermostat exactly as they were on old thermostat. Hold new thermostat in place with the two Philip screws, and reassemble in reverse order. And enjoy your working dryer once more, hopefully for years to come.
Refrigerator keeps running only turns off very seldomly
Problems. Two screws holding temperature control module to the plastic case did not fit the holes in temperature controler were too big. So I used gorilla glue to help secure but it was still loose a little bit with all the connections made i turned it on but it did not work
Fridge would not cool at all, because the compressor was not running. Fan running, lights working, just no cool.
Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.
They were the wrong parts. I read a question another person asked and it advised to order these parts. Didn't want to waste my time anymore and threw them away.
Ordered the Capacitor and the Thermostat Control. Parts were received in a matter of a few days, easy to install, but did not fix the problem. Had to call a repairman to fix the problem (compressor relay - this part not available to order for this model number with Parts Select). Will continue to use Parts Select in the future for other parts, but not happy that the actual part I needed was not available - had to use other methods.
