Models > TRS20WRHD0 > Instructions

TRS20WRHD0 Tappan Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for TRS20WRHD0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the TRS20WRHD0
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Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted

  • Customer: Stephen from Warrington PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 137 of 150 people found this instruction helpful
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.

Pulled plug.

Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be removed.

Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.

Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.

Removed old badly corroded thermostat.

I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.

Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.

Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.

Plugged back in and everying is working great!

ICE MAKER STOPPED WORKING

  • Customer: JACK from MESA AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 60 of 63 people found this instruction helpful
IT WAS PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD. REMOVE THE TWO SCREWS THAT HOLD THE UNIT TO THE WALL OF THE FREEZER. IN MY CASE, I HAD TO USE A DIFFERENT ICE MAKER THAN WHAT CAME WITH THE FRIG. IN ORDER TO INSTALL THE REPLACEMENT UNIT THEY SENT A WIRE ADAPTOR SO IT WOULD ATTACH TO THE EXISTING WIRING. THAT TOO WAS ALL FINE AND DANDY. THE ONLY PROBLEM WAS THAT THE END OF THE WIRE ADAPTOR DID NOT FIT THROUGH THE EXISTING HOLE IN THE REAR OF THE FRIG. I USED A UTILITY KNIFE TO CUT THROUGH THE THIN METAL LINING. THAT WORKED JUST FINE. HOWEVER, I COULD NOT CUT THROUGH THE INSULATION BECAUSE I COULD NOT REACH IT THROUGH THE SMALL HOLE. THE EXCESS WIRE WAS SUPPOSED TO BE PULLED THROUGH THE HOLE AND OUT THROUGH THE BACK OF THE UNIT. SO NOW THE EXCESS IS BETWEEN THE WALL OF THE FREEZER AND THE INSULATION.
THE UNIT IS WORKING WONDERFULLY. IN FACT, IT IS MAKING MORE ICE THAN I CAN USE. I AM VERY PLEASED WITH THE REPLACEMENT UNIT. THIS IS THE 3RD ICE MAKER THAT HAS BEEN IN THIS FRIG. ALL THE OTHERS HAD A DESIGN FLAW THAT HAD A LEAK IN THE REAR OF THE UNIT. THIS CAUSED ALL THE ICE TO FORM INTO A BIG BLOCK. THE REPLACEMENT UNIT HAS NOT HAD THIS PROBLEM SO FAR.
THANK YOU FOR ALLOWING ME TO EXPLAIN MY SITUATION SO THAT MAYBE OTHERS MAY BENIFIT FROM MY EXPERIENCE.
THANK YOU.

JACK

Water resevoir tank was leaking

  • Customer: Suzanne from Collinsville IL
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 34 of 49 people found this instruction helpful
Manufacuturer does not make the tanks any more. Had to by a replacement kit which is basically a 40 ft. plastic tube worth about $10 but they charge you upwards of $55 for it. What a RIP OFF!!! Comes with a self-tapping screw that does not self tap. After 30+ minutes of both of us trying to get the screw to self-tap, we got the drill and started the hole that way. Got coiled hose in place and it is too wide. It is supposed to fit behind the fruits & vegetables drawer. But now drawer will not close all the way. Hose was bound too bulkily. this website was the cheapest place I could find the part. Paid about $63 including S&H. All the places I went to locally wanted to charge me any where from $105 to $127 -- not including taxes.

Wouldn't hold temp.

  • Customer: Laurence from Overland Park KS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 24 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
I'm too young to die so I unpluged the refriderator first. The cold control is mounted in a plastic housing at the top of the freezer compartment that is held in place by two screws on the back side. I removed them with a nutdriver. Pull off the knob and use a screwdriver to release the control from it's bracket and pull off the 3 wires noteing where they go. Slide the sensing element out and remove the plastic sleeve. Stragihten the sensing element on the new control and slide on the plastic sleve. Slide the sensing element in place, push the wires onto the terminals and snap the control into the bracket. Re-install the two screws and the control knob. Plug it in and you're done. It took longer to write this than to replace the control.

The evaporator coil in the freezer would cake up with ice, choking off the cold air flow into the lower refridgerator compartment. A repair man had previously replaced the defrost heater element, but this did not fix the problem.

  • Customer: Erle from Boise ID
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
First, unplug the refrigerator since you're working with live wires.

Remove the 4 Philips sheet metal screws holding the plastic housing that holds the temperature control to the top of the refrigerator compartment. Pull the housing down then out since there is a tube on the housing where the water flows out the back of the refrigerator during the defrost cycle.

Remove the 2 Philips screws holding the defrost timer on the plastic housing. Pull the connectors off the old timer and attach them in exactly the same positions on the new defrost timer.

Attach the new defrost timer to the plastic housing with the 2 screws.

Reinstall the plastic housing, making sure the water tube is inserted into the back of the refrigerator wall.

Plug the refrigerator back in and you're done.

The plasticdrum was broken and would no longer crush or feed the ice through the door

  • Customer: Lawrence from Wichita KS
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 34 of 65 people found this instruction helpful
removed screws,removed broken parts and installed new parts.

Ice maker died!

  • Customer: John from Las Vegas NV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
The repair for this was very simple, although it was a tight squeeze. The model I replaced the ice maker on was a side by side. First I removed the ice bucket so I could have more room to work with. Then I unscrewed 2 screws on the left side wall holding the ice maker in place. These screws had a 1/4" nut top on them so I used my socket driver for this. Then a quick disconnect of the wiring harness. Very Simple. I did the reverse to install the new unit. Total time was around 5 minutes or so. I now have ice again.

Side-by-side .. freezer working, fridge not cooling

  • Customer: Tad from Lancaster OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
My freezer was frozen but my refrigerated side was not cooling, the temp was actually around 60-degrees. After inspecting i noticed no air was flowing through the vent from freezer side to fridge side. I removed everything from freezer and took the back wall panel off inside freezer section and immedietely noticed alot of ice on coils etc. After researching i found the defrost timer was not working and thus allowing frost and ice to build up on coils and block air flow. My defrost timer was located on the front bottom left behind kick panel, using a phillips screwdriver i removed 2 screws and then disconnected wire harness to the defrost timer. Then i inserted new defrost timer and connected wire harness and then put the 2 screws back in. My fridge is now working great and the ice build-up is gone and i am getting good air flow .. temps on fridge side are now between 32-34degrees. This was an easy project and saved me alot of money doing myself

no cooling in fridge or freezer due to bad defrost timer

  • Customer: Todd from pottstown PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
i removed the 4 screws holding cover. removed two screws holding timer. unplugged timer. plugged in new one. reassembled.

Refrigerator freezing

  • Customer: Miles from Longview TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Used exploded parts view to locate part. Removed old part and replaced with new defrost timer. Piece of cake.

The old ice maker had stopped working properly. The cycle was inconsistent, and inlet water would run over existing cubes in the tray, before they were dumped into the dispenser box.

  • Customer: Daniel from Baldwin City KS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
This was really simple, much like changing a light bulb. Two bolts loosened beneath the old unit to allow it to be lifted off and free. The power supply plug was easily disconnected. The new unit was then placed onto the loosened bolts, power supply reconnected and secured with the supplied wire tie. A small angled bracket was removed from the old and reattached to the new as a support toward the from of the unit. The cycle adjuster was backed off a 1/2 turn as per the instructions....and the next morning....new automatic ice. Life is good!

Broken ice maker

  • Customer: Juan from Miami FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 18 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged faulty ice maker, removed two screws holding it to the refrigerator and took it out. Reversed the operation with the new ice maker and after a few minutes presto, we have ice.

Old icemaker would not cycle to make ice.

  • Customer: David from Cedar City UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I had already removed the ice maker by loosening the two screws with a 1/4" nut driver, in order to compare the design and style to the intended replacement for size and critical measurements. The replacement was almost identical. The wiring harness was 2-3" longer than the original, but after snaping the wire plugs together I simply curved the wire up and to the left to be out of the way. The hanging brackets are slotted and it was easiest to slip the back hanger over the head of the screw and let it slip down, then the front hanger was already to line up even though you can't see the screw with the ice maker in the way. I had to transfer an L-shaped metal bracket to the bottom side, matching the old assembly, and adjusting it to hold the bottom side away from the freezer compartment a little so it would hang level and secure. You have to snug the two screws with a screw driver or 1/4" nut driver by feel, since you can't see them with the icemaker in place. It took about 10 minutes to take out the old and another 10 to put in the new. We now have a full bin of ice, and the old plastic trays have been retired. I should have done this a year ago.

Ice maker stoped working and the water dispenser also stopped working at different times.

  • Customer: Roger from Rochester Hills MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 12 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled unit away from the wall. Removed backing from lower controls and compressor. Unhooked water lines and wires to solonoids and removed malfunctioning valve. Hooked new valve to the the plastic water lines, connected wires and mounted new valve to the back support plate.

ice maker would not rotate out cube or crushed ice.

  • Customer: David from Ponca City OK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
1. Remove outer plastic face cover (4) screws.

2. Revove (1) U type nut keeper & (1) metal washer.

3. Remove (1) plastic nut on end of metal auger.

4. Remove inner plastic cover (4) screws and disconnect control rod. (Note postion of control rod befor disconnecting)

5. Note position and order of metal blades and plastic spacers on auger before siding off the end of auger to reposition them upon re-assembly.

6. Remove metal support panel from end of ice bucket (4) screws.

7. Remove auger & plastic cylinder from ice bucket.

8. Remove - slide drive blade off auger.

9. Drive blade replaced.

10. Re-assembled other items removed in reverse order
All Instructions for the TRS20WRHD0
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