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burner would not lite
switch out wires on spark module same burner would not lite oder burner instead of igniter for four dollars more for new burner and igniter it made sense. Changed burner out burner works thanks Ron
I used good old commom sense to disassemble and reassemble the frame, handle, internal glass,and inter panel to reach and repace the cracked glass. I must admit I had two machine screws left over during reassembly, but found a home. It is important to identify where each and every screw belongs. This will cut down your repair time. I thank PartSelect for providing great service and assisting me in my time of need.
Removing the drip pan and the bottom burner cover exposed the igniter, removing two screws retaining the bracket freed the old igniter. Removing the warming drawer allowed access to the control module to unplug the wiring on the ignitor. After making myself a diagram, I unplugged the wires and removed the malfunctioning igniter. Cutting the leads off the old igniter long enough to splice it on below the oven bottom with the enclosed wire nuts and attaching the new igniter (reusing the old insulation to protect the wire) took only minutes and reassembly was straightforward.
New igniter: $60 Repairman fee saved $150 Being able to tell my wife "See, I told you I could fix it!" PRICELESS
oven very slow on heating up up to five minutes to ignite.
First removed oven racks then two screws to remove oven door, removed two screw of oven fan cover, ( need to remove fan cover to have clearance to removed bottom cover of oven) removed bottom cover of oven, then removed two screws holding oven igniter and cut wires of old igniter then spliced wire of new igniter to existing wire and reassemble in reverse order.
See other posts.... they have the correct repair procedures.
HIGHLY RECOMMEND removing the bottom drawer to access the space where splice will be made between new igniter wires and existing wires. This step is recommended in previous posts. I wasted a lot of time taking out unnecessary stuff in the oven compartment before I realized that the drawer compartment provided easy access for repair. Story of my life on just about all repairs.
Got a copy of the parts breakdown for the oven door from partselect. Com. Removed 8 screws from outer frame (3 top, 3 bottom, 1 on eah side). Removed the main glass pane from oven door, be careful when doing this as this is most of the weight of the door. It will want close on its own due to lack of weight. Removed the 2 top screws that attach the handle. Removed some screws from some plates that retain the 2 panes of glass of glass. Removed the third (most inner, broken) pane of glass. Replaced with new one. Reversed disassebly procedure for assembly.
The inside glass on my oven was broken and falling out.
First I removed the oven door from the range by removing 2 screws from the door. Next I removed 2 more screws from the oven door to get to the panel beneath. Once the top portion of the door was removed there were 4 nuts holding the glass sections together. Once these nuts were out I removed the broken class, replaced it with the new glass and reassembled. It was a very easy and quick project. I was so happy to find the part. I thought I was going to have to buy a new range. Thanks.
Disconnected power cord to range Removed the cover over the flame guard Removed the Flame guard Pulled out broiler drawer Unscrewed the cover and disconnected the white plastic connector to the ignitor wires Un crewed the two small screws to the ignitor and removed the old ignitor Cut the two wires from the old ignitor Connected the new ignitor to the wires on the white connector Installed the new ignitor Reassembled parts dsassembled Plugged in power cord
Was easy...I pulled oven out from the wall so I could get to the back.i used a nut driver to remove small silver cover.matched up wires to the never module and re installed.pluged oven back in and burners lit perfectly
I forgot to remove something I had saved in the oven, planning to remove it before using the range.
Very simple. Removed oven rack that had melted residue on it and replaced it with the new one from your company. I want to tell you that the delivery service I received was just geat. Took less than 48 hours to arrive at my home from the time I placed the order on line. Keep up the good work and I will be happy to share my experience with those in need of you services. Thanks. Marilyn Kasson
Remove bottom plates and deflector from oven, remove old igniter. Remove bottom drawer and panel to expose wiring. Cut wires, used supplied wire nuts to splice. The time consuming part of this job was having to clean all the parts before reassembly, and having to extract screws that were rusted into place due to heat and spillage. One of the igniter screws was stripped, and was very difficult to remove. The first part in your "probably cause" list was the right one! Thanks for the good service, and a useful website!
Lenses wore down and broke off making the actual indicator lights fall down behind the control panel since the lights connect to the lens.
Pulled stove out and unplugged it. Used a Phillips screwdriver to take the back cover off of the control panel. Each of the 7 lights connects to the red Indicator Light Lens via a slide clamp which is attached to the front of the light assembly. All you have to do is slide the lens into the hole from the outside of the control panel. Then with your other hand, pust the light assembly into the back of the lens and slide it to lock it in place. Repeat with the others. Replace back cover. Plug stove back in and slide back into place. There are you tube videos out there to help you.
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
Oven would not light upon setting for oven heat-up. Igniter would glow, but no gas flow. Gas Valve safety not sensing enough current draw from igniter to open gas valve. Original igniter measured 175 Ohms on Volt-Ohmmeter. New Igniter measured 74 Ohms before installation and use. Installed and spliced into existing wires using good quality wire nuts and tucked wiring into wire areas ensuring it was away from burner flue. Oven lit on first start-up! Problem fixed! Easiest to get to by removing broiler drawer, pressing catch tangs in from outside rails using a small screwdriver. 1 screw of 2 on igniter mount was stripped and difficult to remove, but working with pliers and nut driver was able to remove it with some difficulty. New Igniter hangs fine with 1 screw. .