TDG336RBW0 Tappan Dryer - Instructions

The first thing I did was logged onto the internet to search the web for my dryer information. Next, after I found the correct model, the site referred me to the parts section and that is where I determined the problem was the M series ignition coil. I then unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. I took a screwdriver and popped the top off and cut the wire straps that held the door strips and the light to the front panel. I then unplugged the door switch at the connector - HOWEVER - DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE WIRES FROM THE ACTUAL DOOR SWITCH BECAUSE THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND CAN EASILY BREAK. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the front panel on. By using a slight bit of pressure, I removed the front panel and was able to locate where the ignition coil switch was. (It was right in front) I then removed the two screws that held the clamp down, as well as the bad coils. The coils easily slid off the post and the new pieces slid back on just as easy. I then replaced the screws and clamps to hold the new pieces in place and replaced the front panel. **NOTE ~ while the front panel is off, it would be a good time to clean out all the built up dirt and lint that has accumulated over the years. Lastly, I re-connected all switches and wires and replaced the top panel. Once I turned the gas back on, everything ran beautifully.

Removed small panel at rear of dryer which allowed access to the Idler Pulley asembly. Easily removed, and replaced with new idler assembly. Fed belt onto new pulley and attached tension spring. Actually, this replacement idler pulley assembly is much better than the original. It has a shoulder to allow the belt to "track" better over drum and around motor pulley. Dryer is now extremely quiet, like a new machine. Hope to get another 29 (yes 29) years out of it. Extremely pleased. Doug East Lansing, Michigan

I lifted the top at the front edge, slid the top back, disconnected the ground wire connected to the top at the rear edge, just slides off.
Then removed the phillips screws on the inside front edge, only one on each side,near top of dryer disconnect the wiring harness at the right side, cut the nylon tie strap holding harness also.
Tip front panel out a little and lift up, comes right off.
The coils are in plain site on the gas valve, remove the wires, and the two screws holding the bracket that holdes them in place, slide the old ones off and start putting back together.
I also used a vacume and cleaned all the lint and dust off everything I could, including the air intake at the rear of machine, "Peice of Cake"

I unpluged the dryer, raised the top cover up, removed 2 two screws & pulled front cover out. Removed the old seal, cleaned the area & installed the new seal. Reinstalled as new. Very, very easy.

Removed back panel. Popped off top of dryer, then removed front of dryer. Slid belt onto tumbler, put front cover back on, put top back on and adjusted belt frombottom panel cover.

First I took the drum out of the dryer. This was an easy tear down. I had to remember 2 wires, and a belt assembly ( 2 pullies ). I removed 3 screws inside the drum to release the bearing assembly from the back. Then I went to the dryer chasis and removed the mounting bracket by removing 2 screws. I simply replaced the mounting bracket with the new one. This required having to use a magnet to hold a small ball bearing in place while I worked the rest of the pieces in position.I greased it up and went back to the drum. I replaced the old bearing assembly with the new one. Easy. I took the time to shop-vac the inside of the dryer. There was a lot of loose lint, candy rappers, coins, etc. Finally, I put it back together. Unfortunately, this is the forth (4th) time I've had to do this. It's cheaper than buying a new dryer. Now, I've got to fix the washer.

Open the top cover by pushing the retention clips in from the front (just under the top edge) with the putty knife - that was the hardest to figure out - I found it online.
The rest is just 4 screws - 2 inside to release the plastic filter holder and two on the inner edges of the front panel.
Took the front off, ripped the old slider, cleaned the glue residue with alcohol and mineral spirits and a lot of scrubbing, vacuumed all the lint from the fan.
Then glued the new slider in place and clamped it together. Didnt know how long the glue takes so I left it overnight, just in case.
It works well now. Cleaning the ducts and the fan with the vacuum hose made a world of an efficiency difference. They should make an easy way to do this for regular maintenance!

First I removed power from dryer. Then I lifted the lid and removed the 2 screws holding the front onto the dryer. I then used a pair of pliers to grip the seal and help pull it off. Cleaned off old adhesive. Recommend getting GOOP BE GONE. Then apply high temp sealant onto area and place seal on top. Press firmly across it to make sure it is in place. Then put it all back together and your done. Also, if upper seal is worn.recommend ordering lower seal at same time. I didn't and should have. Save yourself from doing this twice.

I took the dryer apart to vacuum and check because of the screaching noise. Took drum out and found the bearing in pieces and shaft had rubbed against the brace. I thought as old as my dryer was I would never get a piece to fix it. I got online and found PartSelect.com. I found the part but could not tell if all was included. there was a Phone Number so I called it. I was helped instantly. They acted like it was no big deal to have a dryer that old. I got my part within a week and had my dryer back together. It works like new. Thank you

there are several srcews to remove. there are some u dont have to take out but it looks like u do.ease of the front panel and remove the old drum glide,very hard to get of all the felt.check the the bottom guide before u order parts if possible(i could've replaced mine,but didnt have time to check it first).when glue back in place follow directions exact and clamp.allow glue to dry as long as u can. mine set overnight it was nice and dry(if u dont you'll be doing it all over again)replace everything as you took them off.all works great perfect fit!!

First I removed the 2 screws on the back. These 2 screws hold the top cover. I also used a flat screw driver to press the 2 locks that hold the top cover, they are located in front and under the top cover . Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the front cover. After removing the front cover I replaced the drum glider and the seal-basket lower. Now my dryer is working perfectly...

As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.

The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.

Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.

Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)

replaced rear drum bearing kit. Watched video made it real easy. The only problem was getting the belt back on the pulleys.

I first looked at your directions then felt I could do the repair. So I ordered the part. The video was extremely helpful and allowed me to follow each step in the process. Last time I paid $270 for the exact repair. This time I costs me under $30. Plus I was able to clean out the entire inside of the dryer. The sitr instructions were very helpful and on target for any level of experience. I fixed my own dryer and saved a ton on it! Thank You, Randy In Colorado

Read your article on possible repairs for different symptoms and after dis assembling and cleaning certain parts took a chance on the flame sensor, which turned out to be the culprit. Your help was a valuable tool in the repair process ! What would be the bee's knee's would be the resistance reading on the sensors that monitor the system for a more accurate diagnostic approach. But none the less you definitely aided in the repair of my propane gas dryer. Thank you very much ! And by the way the 3-4 day wait for the part was well worth the half price I paid versus our small town repair facility, Thanx again