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Bad tube seals and bearings
Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.
This website is GREAT! I found the part by looking up the symptoms, and once on the page for the lid repair switch, I found several folks with the exact same problem. This was such an easy fix. I waited for the part to come in, and once I had it in my hands, simply unplugged the machine, took out the 4 screws holding the control panel in place, and then took out the 1 screw holding the lid switch in place and replace it! It was really that simple! The machine works perfectly again. Worth every penny! One thing, the old part is black, and the new one is white, so it takes a moment to find it.
Purchased x4 new adjustable legs. Leaned the washer back and held in place with block of wood. Loosened the two older front legs with an adjustable wrench because they had a locking nut and replaced with new legs. Repeated process on back side of washer. Once all the new legs were installed leveled the machine adjusting the legs if necessary.
disconnected and replaced switch. I ordered the switch one day and Fed Ex delivered it the next morning. Iam amazed at the quick service from this appliance supply store.
I'm not a professional repair person, so diagnosis was more difficult than this repair was. A little research online and some smart investigation(and by smart I mean unplugging the washer before taking the access panel off); resulted in a less than $30 repair - compared to what would have been close to a $150 technicians visit and repair! Simply unplug the washer, unscrew the access panel, unscrew the lid check switch, screw in the new switch, put the panel back on, plug the washer in, and start the wash cycle. Seriously, less than 15 minutes!
Turned off water & unpluged ac power. Removed 2 screws on front panel. Removed panel. Found peices of V belt. Removed 4 screws from electric motor which allowed the belt to come out. Ordered new belt on line. Received the item in one day. Reversed the above sequence above. Now the washer is running as good as new.
Correctly diagnosed that it was the lid check switch that wasn't working. Ordered the part and when it came it took 5 minutes to change out. Very easy and works fine.
After troubleshooting the drain system and my plumbing, I read online that it could be the open door switch. Part select agreed and I ordered the part. Their handy troubleshooting guide was helpful. The part came a few days later, and I easily replaced it. Has been working for two weeks and running.
I took the back off the control panel marked placement of old switch with a sharpie marker removed screws and wires installed on new switch screwed down new switch on my marks replaced back now it is working good as new around 10 minutes total time
First thing I did was to read the great information from other customers. John from Milton's post titled "frayed v belt" was excellent; so was Joseph from Goldsboro NC under the Pump part posts. I would add the following info which wasn't readily available. The Torx/starbit size mentioned in the posts referenced is a T25 the Amana lw8203w2 I have. I bought a t25 size torx wrench at my local hardware store for $2. I got everything together --the belt took some arm strength for an amateur like me to get on. Also, would recommend gloves as some of the edges are sharp down there. Everything appeared okay and when I started the spin cycle it started then cut off. I thought maybe besides the fan belt there was electronics faulty. However, I found an amana repair guide for my model online at scribd and under the troubleshooting section, it described the cutout of the spin cycle and if the new fan belt is too tight, it will bind and the spin cycle will cut out. So I opened up the front again and worked the belt for several turns to "stretch it" and voila, it worked perfectly.
Blown fuse two or three times. Then water filled the tank and then just stopped.
Drained the tank. Pulled the front cover of washer. Pulled the lower cover of dryer. Pulled the top cover of washer. Pulled the mounting case for switch. Pulled the wires to switch. Pulled the switch. Installed switch and reversed the steps in order.
The larger switch of the lid switch assembly broke. The washer would not perform any function that required that the lid be closed.
The 4 countersunk phillips head screws that retain the control panel were removed allowing access to the lid switch assembly. I took a picture of the switch assembly to record wire location with my phone. The one screw that retains the switch assembly was removed after all of it's associated wires were removed. The old switch was removed and the new switch installed. Problem solved.
My washing machine stopped working during the rinse cycle and would not turn back on.
After watching the video on this website and testing the lid switch with my volt/ohm meter I figured out I had a bad lid switch. I ordered the part on Friday evening and got it on Monday. Took me 5 minutes to replace. My problem was solved. I can now add "washer repair man" to my resume. Just Kidding!
We took the back off the top where the controls are and loosened the top so we could have access to the part. It was easy to change out. The only goof we had was we didn't slide the part far enough forward the first time and the lid switch didn't engage. (fixed one problem, the washer filled but now it didn't run) As soon as we moved the switch assembly forward about a half an inch everything worked, my wife was smiling and able to wash clothes again!
