Models > SVE47600B Maytag > Instructions

SVE47600B Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for SVE47600B parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the SVE47600B
16-30 of 335
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defective oven sensor

  • Customer: sean from easthampton MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.

Oven door snaping when closing

  • Customer: Mark from Sumner WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the door saftey plates lifted the door out of the hinge pockets, took the door to my work bench, removed six phillips screws which keeps the door glass cover in place, removed two screws form each hinge removed the old hinges put new ones back in place and reversed the disassembly procedure all in all about twenty five minutes.

oven door gasket was no longer flexible, but stiff

  • Customer: cheryl from dolores CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
pulled out the old door gasket, it had little diamond-shaped clips, pulled out really easily, replaced with the new gasket. All the clips fit into the proper holes, stuffed the new ends where the old ones were. Perfect. less than 10 minutes. Thanks....

NO DISPLAY & OVEN WOULDN'T HEAT

  • Customer: CARROLL from ST. FRANCISVILLE LA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
FIRST I REMOVED THE TWO SCREWS THAT HOLD THE BAKE ELEMENT. I THEN PULLED IT OUT FAR ENOUGH TO DISCONNECT THE TWO WIRES, AND REVERSED THE PROCESS TO CONNECT AND SECURE THE NEW ELEMENT. I THEN REMOVED THE SCREWS LOCATED UNDER THE CONTROL PANEL THAT HELD IT IN PLACE. I REMOVED THE WIRING, 3 CABLE CONNECTIONS, FROM THE CLOCK CIRCUIT BOARD, AND THE TWO SCREWS HOLDING IT IN PLACE. I INSTALLED THE NEW CIRCUIT BOARD, AND RECONNECTED THE WIRING, AND RETURNED THE CONTROL PANEL TO ITS PLACE.
THE WIFE WAS UPSET THAT SHE HAD OFFERED TO DO SOME OF MY CHORES WHILE I FIXED THE OVEN WHEN SHE FOUND THAT IT HAD ONLY TAKEN ME 10 MINUTES TO MAKE THE REPAIRS. THE PARTS WERE A PERFECT MATCH, AND THE JOB COULDN'T HAVE GONE ANY SMOOTHER.

Lower oven intermittant operation-cleaning

  • Customer: Keith from Canyon Lake CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Diagnosis is the important aspect. Ovens have plunger-type switches to tell the "brain" door is closed, both for the light AND to allow initiation of self cleaning. Finally discovered one of those switches was "scratchy" in operation and unreliable in closing the circuit. (Push the plungers in and out several times and observe the light.) If not 100% reliable, replace that switch (cheap and easy with a Phillips screwdriver.) Initial guess was a $major "brain"-electronics problem but it was merely a sticky switch. Strange since the unit is about a year and a half old and rarely used. Found the part easily with PartSelect, and it came via UPS quickly.

Dual element burner only stays on high

  • Customer: Sherman from Perry GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
The replacement switch was not exactly as my original and none of the other instructions matched exactly with my unit. So I had to figure it out, but they matched mostly what Micheal from Colliervile wrote. Safety is paramount. Turn off circuit breaker and ensure there is no power to unit with a test light. You don't have to remove the glass top. Open oven door and remove 4 screws at bottom of control panel, then remove two screws on each end while suppoting the panel with one hand. Rest control panel on top of door or hang by wires. Remove two screws to detach switch from panel. I took pictures of the wire placement on old switch and drew a diagram of what color wire went to each terminal. I used the instruction sheet diagram of new switch and marked where each wire color goes. Here is where I put them: DOUBLE BLACK to L1,2; New jumper from P1 to S1; RED to 2: DOUBLE RED to P2; new jumper with small connector from S2 to "element on" indicator lamp (it's longer than and replaces existing jumper); YELLOW to 4a; TAN to 4. The letters in parenthesis on the instruction sheet almost matched up to my old switch so I used them to help with the placement. I didn't have to seperate any compound red wires. Double check wire placement and put it all back together in reverse order.

Stove would "beep" frequently showing a "F7" code.

  • Customer: Janice from Port Arthur TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
First disconnected electrical power to range.

Opened the oven door enabling access to bottom of touch pad (membrane panel) front. Removed 4 hex-head screws under membrane panel to free panel from range. Removed 4 surface control knobs then removed 4 surface burner infinite control switches with 4 star-point screw driver (8 screws; 2 per switch). Removed 2 hex-head screws holding clock control. Removed bottom edge strip from under the membrane panel (4 Phillips-head screw driver). Removed both left/right end caps from the membrane panel. Reattached all components in reverse order onto new membrane assembly. Reinstalled new membrane assembly to range.

Reconnected electrical power to range. Tested all components and range is working like new! Other than having an available person to assist in holding panel while reassembling this is pretty much a one-person job. Very common sense steps and relatively easy - even for this woman! Have been inspired to repair timer on dryer.

Actual repair took about 1 hour because I cleaned areas along the way that are normally non-accessible on a daily basis.

Many misc. electrical issues

  • Customer: Edmund from Fords NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
After removing the protective panel from the back, I used one of those screw holes to hold the new mother board right next to the existing one. I unplugged one connection & and plugged in to the new board. A couple of the wires didn't reach, but I committed those to memory. It looks a lot more intimadating than it is. It looks like a bunch of spaghetti, but its easier than it looks and it saved me at least $750

Clock display and associated annunciators had faded out

  • Customer: Roger from Deer Harbor WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Removed 4 screws holding trim panel in place. Removed 4 screws on underside of clock panel

Pulled panel out slightly and disconnected the 2 electrical strips

Removed 2 screws holding clock assembly

Disconnected the ribbon circuit tape-push down on the holder tabs and simultaneously pull up gently on trhe ribbon.

Connect ribbon to new unit. Screw unit to panel.
Reconnect electrical strips and reinstall in reverse of disassembly.

Very easy to accomplish

You could not see any read outs. The screen was completely blank

  • Customer: Monty from Hellertown PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
The first thing I did was to turn off all of the power to the range. Then, I removed all of the screws and unhooked the front panel from the range. Then, I rolled the front panel upside down to get access to the wires. I then proceeded to disconnect all of the wires. After that, I removed the circuit board from the panel. Obviously, I just had to reverse the procedure to install the new circuit board. It was one of the easiest jobs I have had to do.

Oven wouldn't heat the right temperature (you would have to add 100 degrees on to it)

  • Customer: Claudine from Bethlehem PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.

Code said we needed a sensor

  • Customer: Janice from Portland OR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.

Double convection oven cooling fan was failing, making a loud noise.

  • Customer: Thomas from Chelsea MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Turned the circuit breaker to "off"
Unbolted the unit from its cabinet (4 screws - visible when the oven doors are open - secured the unit in its cabinet)
Slid the unit out of the wall about 2 inches
Removed the control panel.
Unbolted the cooling fan assembly
Unplugged the assembly from the wiring harness
Removed the cooling fan from the oven

Plugged in the new cooling fan
Bolted the new fan in place
Replaced the control panel
Slid the unit back into position
Bolted the unit in place
Turned the circuit breaker back on
Tested

No problems - the hardest part was having to reach to the back of the oven from the front.

Display was very dim.

  • Customer: Louis from Baton Rouge LA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Very easy to locate parts on your web site. I also ordered new burners and a new control pad for the front. I think I will get 10 more years out of this stove. It's like new. I will keep this web site in my favorites list. Thanks Moe

an F7 error kept appearing on the display when the oven heated up

  • Customer: somsak from warwick RI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
The F7 code meant that a button was stuck. I removed the 4 front panel knobs then removed the 8 screws that held the stovetop controllers. Then I carefully removed the ribbon cable from the display assembly. I then reassembled the in reverse order on the new part.
All Instructions for the SVE47600B
16-30 of 335