SU130 Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Much to my horror, what was described as a simple, 15-minute replacement, took 3 days! In order to replace the oven door gasket, I had to disassemble the entire door. Every photo I saw of the gasket showed it as a flexible part: gently pull out the old one and push in the new. What I received in my order had a frame. In order to replace it, I needed to unscrew the door parts. Unfortunately, I made a few rookie errors, primarily because I kept thinking the next screw would release the gasket frame. So I neglected to keep track of the screws I removed, and I didn’t take any photos!
I must have used half a roll of masking tape to keep parts together; I did not have 5 hands! When I released everything and nestled in the frame, I had even more trouble replacing all the screws I took out. The majority of holes did not line up. So I just did the best I could, put in as many screws as I could. But after three days of working, I finally finished. It all held together, and the door did what it was designed to do. Really a repair horror. And I am not an incompetent novice!

Important: 1) ALWAYS REMOVE ALL POWER FROM THE STOVE. 2) Do not "preassemble" the ceramic recepticle and wire kit. The wires are nearly impossible to remove from the receptacle once inserted. The wire colors have changed and are not the same color as your old wiring. 3) All the fasteners are sheet metal screws, different sizes (note where they are used) and are easly stripped if tighted too hard. Either unplug the stove or open the main circuit breaker to the stove. Take out the right-hand burner cartridge and place it aside. remove the center screw and metal strip from the old receptacle (you will reuse this item). Loosen the control panel from the front of the stove by opening the oven door and remove the four screws holding the control panel in place (Screws are located on the underside of the control panel). The panel slides down about 1/4 inch and tilts forward exposing all the control wiring. Ues a hex-headed driver or large screw driver and remove the drain plug from the drain pan. Use care as there is a small gasket under the drain plug. Remove the four screws holding the burner's pan to the stainless steel stove top. Move the wire bundles aside and GENTLY pull the burner pan half-way out of the stove (it is a tight fit but do not use force. Remove the screws and strap holding the old receptacle from the pan. Withdraw the pan from the stove. (good time to clean the pan and drain plug) With the old receptacle now exposed, assemple the new receptacle and wire harness wire for wire carfully replacing each lead. The new wire harness is inserted into the new receptacle thru the top of the receptacle and will lock in place within the new receptacle. The blades on the end of the wires must point toward the slots in the receptacle. The receptacle wires will be pointing down. Trace each wire and be certain the correct wire is switched out with the proper lug on the control knobs within the stove (needle nose plyers will help but do not force the connections). Gently push the pan halfway back into the stove and attach the new receptacle to the pan with the small metal strap across the back of the receptacle with screws. Push the pan all the way back into the stove and re-attach the pan to the underside of the stove top with sheet metal screws. Re-install the drain plug and drain tube. Tilt the control panel, slide the panel back up into the front of the stove and reattach the control panel with sheet metal screws. Re-install the small metal clip into the front of the receptacle (one end of the clip slides under the stove's stainless top frame). Reenergize. Reset the clock. You're done.

I watched a You Tube video,removed and dismantled the door, installed the new hinge. I forgot to remove the small pin which is similar to a rivet. When I tried to close the door it bent. Eventually, I remembered the shipping pin and pulled it out with any damage. Believe it or not, I had read about the shipping pin on customer comments on PartsSelect...Good luck, it is relatively easy!

Ordered the leveling bolts, very fast shipping, parts correct as shown. Purchased a condo by the shore, frige had no levelers, they went in smoothly & was done in no time.
Steve

first removed the four screws that held the panel in place, tthen unscrewed the actual switch itself. I then pulled the wire, one at a time from the old switch and pluged the wire in to the new switch. upon completion I tested the oven selector switch and secured the switch in place, then replaced the panel. And I'm up and running again!

Unscrew the two screws. Pull the element out a few inches. Unclip the wires by pulling them apart. When we did this the wires retracted back into the opening. It was difficult to reach them and pull them back out. Be sure to hold the wires or clip something on them to hold them out till you can attach the new element. Attach the new element wires and screw the plate back on.

Easy job. Anybody can do it. This replacement is accessed from inside the oven.

1. Remove the two Phillips sheet metal screws that attach the backing element plate to the back wall of the stove.
2. Carefully and slowly pull out the element as far as you can to expose the two Faston connectors and wire.
3. While holding the heating wire exiting the baking element with the needle nose pliers, carefully remove each female Faston connector.
4. Installation of the new heating element is the reverse of above. I highly recommend that you use the needle nose pliers to hold the heating wire behind the male (spade) Faston connector while installing the female connector. This will prevent bending of the heating wire.
5. I also recommend turning on the new baking element to a high temperature for about 10 minutes with the door partially open to get rid of the new heating element odor before you bake any food.

Opened oven door, took four screws out of the front control panel, removed the two screws holding the burner control switch to the front panel, removed the wires from the old switch one at a time and installed them on the new switch. secured the new switch to the front panel, put the four screws back into the front panel, and closed the oven door. Real easy repair.

Removed two nut screws (accessed with oven door open) with nutdriver, panel dropped out. Transferred wiring one-by-one to new switch, removed old switch with allen wrench, installed new switch, replaced panel. Done! However, the problem is not corrected and all other possibilities have been explored with no solution in site. Ideas needed.

I got online, found this site, very easily found the part. The pictures were a tremendous help to ensure accuracy. The parts were delivered within 3 days without special postage. Without a doubt, I will order from here again!

We cut off the electricity to the stove before touching anything. We removed the 2 screws on the plate that is mounted to the inner wall of the oven. Then we pulled the element out 2-3 inches and disconnected the wires. We connected the wires on the new bake element and pushed it into place, inserted the screws and DONE!

The bigger part of the "repair" was the clean up of the fire extinguisher residue inside the oven due to the fire.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.

This same repair 2 years ago thru a Factory repair "professional" had cost $200. My cost $42.00!! Cost to replace the entire range...$1700.00.

Removing the oven door and several layers of metal to get to the seal, is a fairly easy process. Our door had three different fasteners, torx head screws to remove the door, a very small flat head screwdriver to remove the chrome door trim screws, and a nut driver to remove the inner panels and glass. The replacement seal is over-large and must be trimmed. Care should be taken when fitting the integrated wire. Bending at the corners only, makes assembly much easier. Reassembly is the reverse of diassembly. Care must be taken that the seal wire hasn't popped out of it's seat when the cover is installed. This is the most time-consuming and frustrating part of the repair. Patience is paramount to get a good fit. Because I had made an odd bend in it, about one inch of wire was not properly seated after the cover was seated and tightened down. I was able to gently squeeze it into the seat with a flat tip screwdriver without removing any screws. The final problem area is reinstalling the door. Although two people would be helpful to accomplish this Task, I was able to accomplish it with the aid of a three foot piece of 2x4. By wedging the piece of lumber behind both hinges, they were held open under tension to allow slipping the door on. Once partially installed, the 2x4 can be removed and the door seated. Hope this helps.

I raised the top of my Whirlpool Continuous Cleaning Canning Oven, then had to unscrew 3 screws and a lock nut, then raise top about 4 inches, so I could put my hand inside to unplug the wires to the switch, and push it through the hole in front, of oven. Then put the new switch through hole and plug in new switch. Then screw down top; and close lid. Part #866294

Removed the door removed 2 inner panels Installed and reassembled A Cake Walk NOTE be careful not to strip threads