SM988PESW8 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

After shutting off the gas and removing the oven door, which simply slid off of the hinges, I removed the oven plate. The ignitor was attached to the manifold. I removed that and noted the wires were attached back behind a hole in the back of the oven. I thought I would have to access them from the back but when I pulled on them I was able to reach them from the front. I was surprised to find plastic lugs covering the wire ends, rather than ceramic. I attached the new ignitor wires and reused the plastic lugs, as no ceramic ones came with the new ignitor. I carefully slid the new ignitor back into the cage/shield attached to the manifold and replaced the manifold. I then turned the gas back on and tested the ignitor (which worked perfectly) before replacing the oven plate. The repair took less than 30 minutes, but my wife and I thoroughly cleaned the door and interior while we had it apart. The hardest part was getting the door back on the hinges, but this too was accomplished after several attempts. The oven heats up beautifully now.

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

The trick with any appliance is to remove all the extras,before you get to the problem.Considering that it has electricity, the first step was to turn it off.
After that it was a matter of removing the top burners,range knobs and locate the panel screws that secure it to the stove.Locate the part,remember the colors of where the wires go,remove,replace wires,replace new part with wires,slide into place, and reassemble.
Turn on electriciy and Tada. Success.

Thank

Removed the two screws that hold the back glass in place. Rotated old bulb out of it's lamp fixture and replaced it with the new bulb. Replaced glass and reinstalled the screws.
The hardest part was finding the bulb ... a very unique 18W flourescent. I wasted a couple of hours trying to locate it locally at my regular suppliers. The order at PatsSelect was easy and direct and the bulb was on my doorstep 3 days later .. an exact fit. Thanks guys.

easy to put in

After the appliance store told me that the repair would cost about $500 to fix an oven that wouldn't light we didn't have the money to repair it or buy a new one so we went without an oven (only the oven) for almost 1 year. The igniter would glow but the oven would not light. my son found your site online and passed it on to me. It was so simple it's almost funny. I opened the oven door and removed the burner cover. Then reached in and removed the three screws that held the igniter in place. Turned off the gas, disconedted it so I could pull the stove out to get behind it. Found the wires to the igniter and undid the 2 wire nuts. Removed the igniter cover from the old one and slid it onto the new one. Be very careful because the igniter is very delicate and be sure to not toucjh the heating eliment. Slid the new part into place, reinstalled the screws, connected the new wires with the old wire nuts, reconnected the gas and turned on the oven. BAM it worked like a charm.

First we removed the oven doors. Then removed the shelf that separates the oven from the broiler, giving us more room to work. At first we thought we needed to loosen the screws around the bracket holding the ignitor, but we realized that the burner needed to be removed. Lifting the burner up from the front gave us the room to pull it gently from the back of the oven wall, giving more room to pull the wires connected to the ignitor from the back of the oven wall out and then disconnecting them. Then carefully pulling the ignitor out of the bracket.

Putting the new ignitor in was easy. Carefully sliding it into the bracket, not touching the ceramic piece, connected the electric wires, pushed the wires back into the hole in the back of the oven. Then placing the burner back into place.

We then turned on the gas and the electricity and the ignitor glowed and the burner lit. PERFECT! In the past we've had a repair man come in and this time we saved $100. Even more perfect.

I simply looked at the new switch , to see how it fastened in the stove. It had plastic clips that were easily depressed to allow the swithch to be removed. I removed it , (after turning the circuit breaker off to the stove) removed the three wires , and replace them on the new switch and simply pushed it in the space. It snapped in place , and the job was done . Works great!

Ordered a new door frame morning of March 25.
Part arrived the next morning and by that afternoon, the
replacement was complete. Only four screws held the frame.

was so each, we removed the door and the racks. and the bottom drawer out. All we had to do was remove the ignitor that was held in wtih screws we could read the wires from the bottom of the oven and then put the new one in and attached the wires from the bottom. We had read reviews of others that did the same repair and were confident that we could do it because they described it and said it was so easy. Thanks everyone.

i disconnected the power supply, took all shelves out of oven, removed screw that holds the bunner to oven, removed bunner along with igniter. cut wires to igniter wired new igniter , tested before
installing bunner,( ok) installed bunner and screw
fired up and all is well.

The microwave is the upper unit of combination microwave & conventional oven. Disconnect power to the unit. Slide unit out of built-in cabinet to expose the top shield of the microwave. Remove 5 screws holding top cover in place. Remove cover, which exposes the belt reel and drive motor. Install the new belt by threading it on the drive motor pulley, then walk the new belt on the stirrer pulley. Replace the top cover and reinstall the 5 screws. Reinstall the combination unit in the wall cabinet. Reconnect electrical power. Task Complete. The belt just seem to die of old age about every seven year. Without the wave disperser operating, the microwave oven does not give even heating.

Had to take entire back panel off, to disconnect wiring. Once disconnected, removed two screws holding up igniter in oven. Pulled it through and removed from holder, Be careful new igniter very fragile. Reconnected, put panel back on, then turn on to verify, all went well, fully operational.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Repair can be done through the oven after removing the dip pan on top of the oven burner. The drip pan slids out - no tools needed. Remove 1 screw that holds the element close to the burner and 2 screws that hold the element cover to the stove. Remove bottom drawer and remove wire nuts from element wires. Reverse the process to install new element. Care must be taken to avoid damage to the element as it can be easily broken. I cut and stripped the wires coming from the stove valve as they were not in good shape after removing the wire nut.