SDE5701AYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

replaced all above parts, everything seems fine now. Thank You.

Diagnosed with Amana Reference manual & Ohm meter. Ordered parts. Cleaned everything while parts in transit. Installed parts, completed reassembly & fired it back up. No problem.

Used the Parts Select video. I also replaced the drum belt which I had ordered earlier. Repair went exactly as described in video. Belt looked fine but replaced anyway. Rollers and glides needed replaced. (Hint: felt pads for glides had come unglued and fallen to bottom of dryer-this was probably the main problem as glides no longer had support). I reused the same felt pads and glued them to bottom of new glides with Goop. You need O ring compressor and expander for rollers. Drum belt was a little hard to thread at the belt tensioner and video was not real clear. If you use left hand around left side of motor to guide the belt and right hand around right side of motor to compress tensioner, it worked great.

This part fit perfectly. I pulled the old lint filter out and put the new one in with no problems. The part no longer contains a felt seal so if that's your problem just pull the old felt seal off as it doesn't seem to need one.

When the dryer stopped working, I checked the two switches to see if they were good. The start button checked out OK but the switch on the door read bad. Ordered the part with the part number and put on when it arrived. Just a matter of disconnecting and reconnecting three wires. Very simple

No work was required. I just slid the filter in a hole.

Had to call the repair center 3 time & view the video several times because the drum support roller would not fit on the new shaft. Even ordered the parts twice (with refund on first) to ensure the correct parts. The call in center could not help me & I was left on my own. I had to force the roller onto the shaft which was very difficult, Once the hole had gone onto the shaft, it was fine, but I had to take it off to install the shaft then gently drive the roller onto the shaft. It does roll free once over the outer edge. Installing the belt was not easy either. The video did not have a good picture of how the belt runs & not drawing was available, maybe it could be included next time for others

I only had to watch your video! The absolute BEST instructions ever. Your videos have saved me already $480 in repair bills in just one month. First my washer needed a snubber ring, and you had that video and then the dryer parts. Thanks again for being there!

I don't have the model number right now, but you video was fantastic.

First off you open the top of the dryer by pressing in the the 2 spring clips with a putty knife or metal spatula if you don't have a putty knife. They are located on the same side as the door. Then remove the wires and label them or take a picture of them so you can put them back on the correct terminals. Remove the 2 5/16" screws and the lift up and pull out on the front panel, set it aside. Remove the 4 5/16" screws on the front bulkhead(the thing with the lint catcher on it) this is what the felt ring is attached to. I used brake parts cleaner and a putty knife to remove the old adhesive. Use High Temperature Silicone or some kind of High Temp adhesive to attach the felt ring. Make sure to place the white side of the ring onto the adhesive. Also there should be a rounded face of the ring and a flat face, make sure the rounded face is facing outward. Bead a good amount of adhesive onto the outer ring of the bulkhead and work the felt ring around inch by inch. Don't rush this process or you will have a mess. If you do its okay just use a rag and the brake parts cleaner to wipe down any excess adhesive. Let it cure for 24 hours, otherwise it might make your clothes smell like the adhesive and possibly ruin them. Before replacing the bulkhead back onto the dryer, replace the drum glides. They should be on two brackets below the felt ring. These are important and if they are damaged or missing it can cause more serious problems down the road. Put everything back in reverse order. Make sure the drum and the drum glides are lined up properly. Test the dryer while its empty.

Unplug dryer. Front of dryer has two hold down clips that lock the top of the dryer down. I used a small putty knife to locate the locking clips(2) one on Front Left and right about 3.5 to 4.0 inches from each side. The top is hinged in the rear just lift front of top up and raise it up. looking down on the front of the dryer there are two sheet metal screws one on Left and right. Remove these two screws. There are also two sets of wires that attach to the front panel, Remove them and note their positions. The front panel can now be removed by leaning it forward then lifting it up off the two tabs on the bottom. Now you have another plate to remove. Remove the sheet metal screws on each side. This panel is a guide to hold the front of the dryer's drum, remove it. There is a belt that runs around the drum and to pulley system at the back of the motor. There is a spring loaded idler pulley that needs to be moved so the dryer belt can be removed from the motor. Now the drum can be lifted slightly and removed from the unit. Now it is time to remove and replace the parts I had ordered. These are located at the Left rear of the cabinet. Note wire positions and remove wires. The Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are attached to the heating element plate. Two sheet metal screws hold the element plate in position. Remove them and the plate will come right out. The sheet metal screws holding the Fuse and Thermostat on the plate will need to be removed and used to install the new parts on the new Heating element plate. Install new element plate and attach wiring. Now reverse the take-down procedures to put dryer back together.

Replaced the (High Limit Thermal Fuse) & the (Limit Thermostat). Two screws to take off front of dryer, then I took out two screws on each peace, then switched the two wires on each peace done! Simple as that. I ordered the parts on Sunday night & received on Tuesday! All went great.

The first problem i had is that the idler pulley went out for the dryer drum. Part of the plastic pulley melted and the drive belt eventually broke. I got the parts to replace the idler pulley and belt from PartSelect. That was a pretty easy repair, but when i had it apart I noticed a small crack in the aluminum pulley on the motor drive shaft, I'm assuming because of the heat generated by the seized up idler pulley. I put it back together anyway. The dryer made it for 2 or 3 batches of clothes and the aluminum pulley on the motor shaft came apart. Turns out the only way to replace that pulley is to replace the motor. The cost for the new motor wasn't all that much and the dryer is in otherwise pretty good shape, so I ordered the new motor. The motor assembly was easy to replace and works great. Glad I was able to get it fixed without too much expense. I literally spent less that an hour altogether with both repairs. I was happy with the parts and service from partselect.com, they also have great how to videos.

On line video was great and easy to follow. The only problem I encountered was with removal of the front panel. Ours is a 20-year old dryer and the front configuration is different. You cannot lift the top, as shown in the video, before you remove the front. There is a lower front panel that has two 5/16" screws at the bottom and drops off. There are two 5/16" screws in the bottom of the door panel which allows it to drop off. Finally you remove two 5/16" screws in the brackets that hold the top to the sides and the top then tips up and to the rear. From there on the video is perfect.

Really easy popped the lid with a flat head screwdriver, then marked wires for door light and switch, took 2 5/16 bolts to remove front door, then 4 bolts also 5/16 to remove front panel but be care ful and remove drum belt then take panel and drum out. Then took a set of ring pliers to remove wheel slapped new one on.then reverse sreps to assemble.