Oven shut down when TCO (thermostat) detected overheat. Once cutoff, it has to be replaced not reset.
The spacesaver is mounted over the stovetop. I removed the oven, then removed all the screws from the cover. Removed the cover and located the TCO and removed the wiring and the TCO. Ordered the part VIA internet and replaced it . It helps a little that I was Radar tec. and taught Electronics for 10 years and repaired lots of Microwaves. However anyone could do it just watch what you remove and replace in reverse order.
Had to remove outer cover (special screws involved). Found the correct part at PartSelect.Com and it arrived 3 days later as promissed.
This oven has diffcult electrical connections at switch to get disconnected. I found it easier with the sw loose and in hand so that the connectors can be released with a small screwdriver.
One has to this in order to test the part wirh an ohm meter. I found the sw did not close but remained open and thus caused the oven not to function.
Removing interconnect switch is tricky but not difficult.
Outer cover replacement is not as easy as it should be, especially the sides.
All is well and working.
Microwaves are simple devices if you are know how to read and understand schemetic diagrams.
Turn off the circuit breaker to the microwave. Remove the 4 black wood screws that secure the microwave to the cabinet. Pull the microwave all the way out and set it on something that leaves you access to the middle access panel on the bottom. Remove the access panel on the bottom that has one screw. Unhook the 2 cables to the motor remembering which color goes where. Remove the 2 screws for the motor and replace the motor. Finish up in reverse...
This is the second time replacing this fuse, last time was exactly one year ago. The first time I replaced it, I removed the oven from the wall & disassembled a number of things to reach the culprit. This time I left the oven mounted & was able to access the 2 grille mounting screws on the top of the grille & remove it. Next comes the black plastic air deflector held by two screws & is mounted in front & on the right, it is shown on the parts list just above part #1434. After removing it, remove the two silver cover screws in the front, this cover also doesn't have a part # but is shown to the right of part #1410. At this point you can lift this cover enough to access the fuse which is on the left & held in place by one tiny screw through the clamp at the top, (careful not to drop it when removing). PS: Don't forget to cut the power to the microwave before starting!
after 3-4 minutes microwave display would blink and unit would just cut out.
This was the second time I've had to open up the microwave. 1st time display would blank out but system would continue to operate. Found solder connections on board to LED display were defective. Resoldered and unit was fine. This time I found the connection to the oven cavity temp cut-off was bad, plastic connection cover melted. When unit operated bottom lead and wire would heat up. Couldn't measure a Discernable distance so either wire or connector connection surface was not sufficient to carry the current. 1st replaced sensor still wire heated up. Replaced connector and there was no sign how heat from resistances.
One small Phillips screwdriver and one fuse puller (I used cord). Unplug unit. Remove the two screws on the vent face plate. Remove the one screw on the panel assembly. Gently let hang. Pull the fuse located on the upper left wall. Replace fuse. Reassemble.
Over the stove microwave installed in top cabinet row. 1. Unplug device. 2. Two people to remove from wall/cabinet (remove two, large, top mounting screws and rotate entire microwave down and off the wall mount). Should be some wood spacers between top of device and bottom of cabinet. 3. Remove screws from sheet metal cover. 4. Remove one screw holding blowers in place and rotate out of the way, in order to gain access to 2 of 5 screws that hold the magnetron in place. 5. Unplug magnetron and remove the 5 screws. 6. Drop in new magnetron and re-assemble microwave in reverse order (steps 5-3). 7. Two people restore micro to wall/cabinet. Replace wood spacers, re-install two, large mounting screws (finger-tight). Test device. Secure the two large screws.
First remove all screws holding on outer metal casing of microwave. Next remove the back and bottom metal pieces. You will then be able to pull aside the outer casing so you can access the door switches. Check each switch with an ohm meter in both the open position and with the switch closed. If the ohm meter reads the same in both the open and closed position, the switch is bad. Check the top switch first. Replace switch and reassemble. Cheap fix for a costly microwave. Great customer service at Parts Select!
Microwave does not have power at all, though outlet has power
unplugged power cable / unhooked front vent / unscrew the monitor panel / slide up to dislodge / take the fuse out and put in the new one in / fuse is located right in front of monitor panel once its open might be covered by wirings / you can unpin the cables from the panel to make it easier for you just make sure to put it back properly or you can have somebody hold the panel for you. Installing the fuse is easy waiting for the parts is crazy......
Disassembled the front cover, found slow blow fuses, then replaced with microwave fuses 250V-20Amp. Utilized a few fuses to pin point the problem, Microwave functions all worked except the express feature, made an assumption after using a tester that it was the high voltage capacitor and the diode that attaches. Replaced both, plugged in and tested. Worked! reinstalled the unit. Sucessfull for the past month.
Opened door to get food put more food in closed door it wouldnt work
Everything worked on the display light inside worked but when you closed the door and set time it would start counting down but not heating nor would the turntable turn. Started reading troubleshooting chart and first thing I did was removed the cover and checked door switches and found primary door switch wasn't working so I ordered a new one installed it and it worked. Anyone doing this has to be very careful because of the stored energy in the capacitor is strong enough to kill. My micro is only 2 years old so I was hoping it wasn't anything major.
Unscrewed the vent at top of microwave exposing small access to bulb. The access to this was very limited so that was the major issue in changing the bulb. You needed small hands to do the job.
I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.
The GE appliance technician replaced the magnetron, HV capacitor, and diode without luck but only charged me the service call, not for the rest. He however told me the only item left would be the HV transformer. Having watched the nearly 2 hour teardown and rebuild for the parts, it gave me the knowledge needed to attempt the HV Transformer. Having received the transformer, I tore into the micro removing the old TF. To my dismay, the old TF tested good (per advice from the internet checking the prim and sec resistance values... they also came close to the new TF. So I elected to dig out the schematic and troubleshooting flowchart hidden inside my micro. All things led back to a door switch which checked bad... part which I didn't have. Reassembled micro, ordered switch from Parts Select and installed in about 1/2 hour. Micro work great now. Only if the GE tech would have followed the flow-chart! I ended up returning the HV Transformer since it wasn't used and not needed. Had to absorb shipping costs.