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When door opened, microwave would turn on
Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.
The microwave turntable rotates when the door is open.
This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open." With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open. Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower. There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon. Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.
I went to a U-tube video and secured the installation instructions. Video said it would take 15 minutes to do repair. Took me longer to get the door apart but finally got it installed. Had to disassemble a couple of times before getting it right but it worked out. Took a little over an hour.
Turntable coupler became very charred and brittle and was sparking.
The old one was extremely difficult to remove, like it was ‘welded‘ in place. I had to crush and destroy it with vice grips in order to get it. it off. The new one would not go on unless I modified it by removing a “spur“ which prevented it from sitting flush with the bottom of the oven. All in all it took less than 25 minutes and it is now working well.
My microwave is built in above the stove which provides lighting and fans for my stove. The glass lens cover for the lighting was cracked in several places and the light bulbs had burned out. I taped the glass lens for removal so it didn't break apart due to the cracks Removed the one screw. .Both light bulbs broke away from the base sockets as I tried to unscrew them. I used electrical tape wrapping in reverse on a lightbulb (socket end) so it was sticky for a grip on the base, shoved it in the sockets and was unable to unscrew the broke off bases. So it was very successful and no repair man was needed.
Door handle was broken and partially disconnected from microwave unit
You'll need to use the knife to remove the plastic frame backing from the the microwave door. Be careful when disengaging the tabs so as not to break them.Then you'll need to use a phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws from the door. Remove the damaged handle. Installation is the reverse of the removal process.
Remove old light sockets and replace in Microwave over stove
Have a microwave that the light and sockets just broke in pieces so I ordered two sockets from this site . The fit perfectly and it was a breeze to install. Took out 7 screws and the plate dropped down, hooked up the little wire which was so simple and bingo I had lite again. I just wished the hold plate came down but it didn't but it was still very easy to install. Will continue to get my appliance parts from this company.
Frost build up on bottom to ice bin and delivery chute in door creating ice blockage
Remove the ice bin. Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF" Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one. Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug) Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON" Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
Pulled it from the wall remove the front vent covers removed the control panel remove the door switches by a special screw driver bit which looks a star remove the electrical terminals pressed the plastic clip pulled the switch replaced it with new one then followed initial steps backward
unscrewed the screw, pried up metal tabs that hold in light lens. took out broken pieces, slid in new light lens re-secured tabs with fingers, screwed in the screw again.
I turned off the breaker/electric power to the microwave; opened the base of the microwave, detached the wire to the old drive motor, removed the screws holding the drive motor in place; removed the old drive motor and installed the new drive motor---beyond easy!!!
The microwave was making a lot of noise and the glass plate was turning very slowly.
I diagnosed the problem myself. I googled GE parts and was refered to you guys. I ordered the part and it took less than a 5 days to arrive. I used a phillips scewdrive to remove the cover of my microwave and removed the turning glass motor. This took less that 30min and cost less that $50.00. I figured that it would have cost me approx $125.00 to get a tech person to my home for this repair.
The turn table was making a terrible noise and wouldn't turn. I called a repair company and they told me it would be at least a hundred dollars to fix it.
I removed the screws that held the bottom in and then dropped it down to access the motor. I removed the 2 screws that held the motor in and unplugged it. I then plugged the new one in and reattached it with the 2 screws and put the bottom back on. It took me about 5 minutes to fix it for only $40.00.
