RT18AKXKQ08 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

Basically, I read all of the remarks from other people that had the same problem , I replaced both the timer and thr defrost(bi metal) thermostat as the thermostat had a ohmic value when closed that I was not comfortable with. The unit is now up and running and defrosting as it's supposed to do. I could not get those pushdown clips that hold the timer unit , I ended up breaking them off at the plastic post but there was enough of the plastic post showing that a bit of hotmelt glue was able to hold the timer secure.

I ordered the crispers and they came the next day.I took them out of the box and had them installed in about 30 seconds.It doesn't get any easier than that.The lady on the phone was very helpful when I placed the order.The fact that they came the very next day was amazing to me.

First, pulled knob off ot thermostat. Then, lowered control panel housing thermostat by unscrewing one screw. Removed old thermostat after taking off three wires. Replaced with new thermostat, secured wires, and screwed control panel to top of refrigerator. That's all it took. Challenge was finding the nut driver to loosen screw.

I took the cover off the control settings and found the timer. Removed two screws and replaced the defective one with the new one. Had to pay attention to directions since the timer is used in different ways and to make sure the loose wire was installed correctly (not the same way as the original ground was connected).

Removed 2 control panel knobs and face plate that is snaped in place using a knife to prey it causing to snape lose.
Removed 4 cover screws that gave me acess to Defrost Timer. Remove two fastining screws on timer unit. Remove electrical color coded 4 prong connector plug. Have to make sure black jumper wire on the new timer kit is connected to the correct one of the 4 prongs as to instruction sheet for my model refrigerator. Reassemble in reverse order. Bingo! Fixed.

I deenergized the refigerator, removed the storage tray, three screws that hold the ice maker, two screws that hold the lower portion of the freezer, two screws tjhat hold the back portion of the freezer. Removed the ice maker and disconnected the wire connector and ground, Removed lower portion of the freezer which allowed the back portion to be lifted out. Once the back was out the bimetal defrost thermostat was located in the upper right corner clipped to a copper line. Using an ohm meter, I found the bimetal defrost thermostat to be electrically open, ordered part from information found on part, Once part arrived I deenergized the refrigerator and replaced bimetal thermostat by cutting the old thermostat wires (pink and brown), stripping the wires back about 5/8 inch and wire nutting the replacement parts like colored wires, clipped the bimetal part on the copper tube, replaced the covers in reverse order, and reenergized the refrigerator. Testing and replacing the part took about 15 minutes, waiting for the ice build up to thaw took considerably longer.

First, unplugged the refrigerator. Then removed bottom plastic liner of the freezer, 2 screws with 5/16 nut driver. At this point the ice maker had to be removed 3 screws, two on the upper part and the other under the ice maker. Now the back wall of the freezer section was removed by unscrewing 2 screws with the nut driver. This gave me access to remove the defective clip-on Bimetal defrost thermostat. It was located in the upper right corner on the back wall of the freezer. Cut off the 2 wires from the bad part( one pink the other brown)then used wire nut to replace with the new part and matched wires from freezer to new part( pink to pink and brown to brown) and clipped the part in one section of the coil. ( where the bad part was located) Put all back in place. And so far no more water leak inside the fridge.

I ordered the frame shelf that I needed. I tried to take off the glass shelf off of the old broken frame. There are plastic grooves that the glass shelf fits into. I found that by running hot water on the grooves it made it easier to get the glass shelf out of the old frame. I used a very small srewdriver to move the glass shelf out and it helped.

First I unplugged appliance then I remove two screws from the thermostat/light cover. I then remove two defrost timer mounting screws and all electrical connectors. Then utilizing instructions recieved with new defrost timer I ascertained which wires should go where. When I was sure I had the wires ready I connected them to the others in the appliance and plugged the appliance in to ensure that the noise was no longer heard and made sure timer was working. Everything seemed fine so I unplugged appliance and secured two defrost timer mounting screws and thermostat/light cover mounting screws and that was that.

On a whim I looked into what it would take to fix my garage older 2nd fridge. I was thinking I needed a new seal, but when I checked the website there was a great troubleshooter. I would have never guessed that the defrost timer was what would cause it not to ever get cold. After a fairly simple repair the freezer is colder than ever and I actually had to turn it down. The only complication was the fridge was stuck in a defrost cycle so I had to reset the timer to get the refrigerator running. Thanks so much for a super helpful site for a do-it-yourselfer like me.

removed the defrost timer and replaced with new unit now i have a refrigerator again

From the time I started to finish I worked 3 hours, this included installing the new ice maker, cutting into the cold water line in the basement and installing a t with a 6inch piece of pipe with a compression valve to connect to the small cooper tube, this is worth your time to do it this way, its a lot better connection than the small pierce valves that come with the kit, they will leak over time. I installed the filter in the waterline in the basement for easy access

After discovering I could give the thermostat box a rap with my hand and get it to start the fridge I got online at your site and found others were doing the same, before replacing the thermostat. I ordered the part from you and received it the next day! I used a long neck nut driver to remove the one screw holding the thermo box in place and pliers to unplug the three wires on the thermo unit. After removing the control knob it slides right out. I unwound the temp sensor wire and tried to shape it like the old one before installing(making this sensor fit like the old one takes a little juggling). Then hooked the wires on the new unit that you sent and the fridge started working again flawlessly. Big savings!

Unplugged the machine removed the bottom plate and back plate and ice maker.Removed 2 wires to motor and ground wire.Removed 2 mounting nuts for motor,installed new motor and used old fan blade for new motor .Reinstalled in reverse order plugged in and tested fine.