RT18AKXEN00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

Instructions came with the part I ordered and they were very easy to follow. Basically you have to remove the cardboard cover from the back. Then you remove the four screws at the bottom (2 front, 2 back) that hold the bottom plate on. My husband tilted frig and held it while I put a block(4" x 1/2") under the bottom outside frame (not the bottom plate). You can see a ridge on the frame which is where I placed the block. My husband braced the frig the whole time I did the repair just to ensure it didn't fall on me even though it was blocked. The bottom plate didn't slide back at first. I took a flat screw driver and hammer and slightly tapped the bottom plate through the screw hole that secures the bottom plate to the frame. I tapped 2 or 3 times...gently each tap...until the bottom plate dropped down. Which was the 1/2" noted in the instructions. I then was able to access the front wheel, remove the pin and replace with the new one. We replaced both front wheels so I did not replace the bottom plate until we replaced the second wheel. We removed the block and tilted the frig to the opposite side, blocked then I replaced the second wheel. Once that was done I removed the block, my husband let the frig down gently and I went to the back and tapped the bottom plate forward. It didn't quite want to go back in place but with patience it finally and then was able to put all screws back in. Donna

Took out the old drawer and put in the new one.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

Removed items and defrosted freezer. I then removed metal shelves, ice maker, bottom sliding tray and false bottom, freezer back, and light bulb with wire track. Cut wires to defrost thermostat and spliced in new thermostat. Reassembled shelves, back, etc., in reverse order. Old thermostat tested "open" in hot and cold water with Ohm meter tester.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

Insalled fan motor,problem went away. Thanks

The repair was very simple! And the website was also easy and accurate to use! I put the new rail in after taking out the glass shelf ( just like you do when you clean it) and snapped in the new piece. Voila! sliding drawers again.

Once I determined easier access to the fan motor, I removed the three fan motor screws that held the motor on place. After removing the motor I remove the fan blade assembly held by one nut and reattached to the new motor. I then reattached the new motor with 3 new screws which were provide and reattached the power cord with the cord clip and began reassembling the icemaker housing, then moved the unit back in place which was installed under counter. I could do this repair in less than 45 minutes now that I have done it once. I saved several hundred $ from the original estimate and the parts were delivered in 2 days after I ordered online. This is definitely a DIY project!!

1. Unplug the refrigerator. 2. Remove the back cover at the bottom of the refrigerator. 3. Remove the two screws holding the vertical black bracket the fan is mounted to. This allows the bracket to move easily. The bracket does not have to be removed. 4. Removed the four screws holding the fan bracket to the vertical bracket. 5. Unplug the power connector from the fan motor. 6. Remove the entire fan bracket assembly from the refrigerator. 7. Remove the 4 screws holding the fan motor to the fan motor bracket and unmount the fan motor. 8. Remove the nut holding the fan blade to the fan motor and remove the fan blade. 9. Reverse the process, mounting the fan blade to the new motor, screw the motor to the bracket, screw the bracket to the vertical bracket, screw the vertical bracket to the refrigerator and plug the power connector back into the motor. I did not have to use any of the extra mounting hardware or electrical hardware provided with the kit. It might be a good idea to purchase a new fan blade with the motor kit, the fan blade can get pretty grungy. I cleaned the fan blade with some degreaser before remounting it.

First I called my friend Robert in Kissimmee, Fl to have an idea regarding the problem because I had never serviced a fridge before. Then he suggested that I check with PartSelect on the Web. Then PartSelect repair videos showed me everything. I followed step-by-step but the problem persisted. I finally realized that the airflow conduit between the freezer and the fridge was clogged with ice. I then proceeded to remove the ice underneath the coil on the aluminum cover and Bingo. The problem was in fact the ice. Well, I only spent $33 dollars for the non-necessary Bimetal Defrost Thermostat. I learned a great deal from that repair.

After learning the top and bottom part separate from the handle itself, all I needed to do was to take off the bottom part which was broken and replace the broken part with the new part , that was in a kit, I purchase from Whirlpool.