RT14BKXSQ00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

I am a landlord and while getting apartment ready for renting, I noticed the broken shelf. I got part # etc. and the shelf came in one day. I was extremely satisfied with the prompt attention that I received.

Researching reasons for the freezer to not defrost, there were determined to be three potential causes: malfunctioning defrost timer, defective bi-metalic switch, or a defective defrost heater element. Research indicated that the most common source of the issue was a malfunctioning defrost timer. So, I purchased the defrost timer (which was the lowest cost option) and installed it, which took about 30 minutes. I would rate the replacement effort as "easy". Most of the time was spent collecting the proper tools and planning the repair. When placed back into service, the freezer did not appear to begin defrosting. I gave it about two days, and based upon visual evidence that the problem was NOT fixed, I removed the panels in the freeze to inspect the bi-metallic switch and the defrost heater. Using a VOM, I determined that the heating element was good; however, the bi-metallic switch appeared to be failed open, even after placing the switch in ice water while testing for continuity. So, I ordered a new bi-metallic switch which included a wiring harness. It took about 4-5 days to diagnose the problem, order, and receive the new switch. During this time, I did not have cause to inspect the freezer. Once received, I collected the needed tools and opened the freezer, only to find that the freezer was fully defrosted! So, in the final analysis, the defrost timer was the culprit! It apparently took 4-5 days for the defrost timer to cycle enough times into defrost to effect the true defrost of the freezer. Lesson learned: give the defrost timer time to do its job!

took a voltage check to ensure had 120vac to the motor and did. Ordered new evap fan motor, installed, refrig works as good as ever now. Thanks for your website.

replaced old one installed new one

Watched your AMAZNG detailed Video first. Ordered part received in two days,WOW! Pulled refrig. from wall unscrewed two screws, loosened third screw on hose, pulled hose out cut below metal incert. Took new part from package placed in back of refrig. placed new metal incert in hose replaced hose in new fitting. Turned water back on, plugged in refrig. No leaks pushed back to wall waited for while...VOILA!! ice cubes no mess to report. THANKS FOR SUCH AN AMAZING WEB SITE and SERVICE. TOM

Was very simple once I found out where the defrost timer was located. I had a friend walking me through trying to find the location on the phone. Not all models have them in the same place. Once the part was located all I had to do was remove the cover, unplug the old one and plug the new one in just the way the old one came off. The black wire was easy to locate on the old and just matched it up. Put the cover back on and plugged it in. It was no time till I started feeling it cool. Checked both top and bottom with thermomater and it was where it should be within 12 hours. I am happy and using it again. Was almost ready to throw it out. Did not know it was so cheap to fix one. Nothing anyone can't handle. If this woman can do it anyone can.

Used angle screwdriver to tighten.

My fridge is a little different from the video model. The Controls in the fridge are located on an "arm" which swings down when the two screws are removed from the sides. It was not necessary to remove a front plate or knobs. However, I found when I got in to it that the old timer was not held by screws, but by plstic posts which had these "speed nuts" on them. This is a little metal plate which fits over the plastic post and bends to lock it in place. When you try to remove it, it acts like a barb, holding the little sucker on. I ended up bending the ends of those little suckers up tight against the post and twisting and pulling with needle-nose pliers. I broke one post like others before me commented, but one stayed intact. The only break at the top, so there ie still post left to hold the new timer. Once it was off, I was able to replace easily. The directions for choosing the right prong were a little confusing, but follow your gut and go with the wire colors. My schematic found in the bottom of the fridge did not look like any of the drawings, but I could match the wire colors. I also asked "Just Ask" for help, to make sure. My gut instinct was right. My fridge is now working again beautifully. If a housewife with no appliance repair knowledge can do it, so can you. I fixed my dryer with PartSelect too!I will never call another repair man until I have checked this site to see if I can do it myself. Bet I have saved $600 so far at least!

Whirlpool refridgerator, parts were not exactly the same,but did fit. The electrical hook plug was perfect. Old ice maker had wear marks in channels. Installed new ice maker. Pump still didn't operate after letting ice box get down to normal temp. Replaced pump. Had to use hose permanentely attached to new pump. Removed old hose and clamped new hose at top and outside refrigerator with existing clamp. Let the freezer get back down to normal temp. Ice maker operated perfectly.

I found the evapoator iced over and the evaporator fan not working . I tested for voltage on the fan circuits ,found them to be good .ordered the part i needed and repaired the fridge . in the meantime until i recieved my part i put a small fan in the freezer to keep the evaporator form icing over so my food would not spoil .

Added ice maker to our frige as i have never done one so i called a friend and he came over once we figured it out took less than 1/2 hour to install and run water line only thing instructions could have been a lettle clearer to under stand plus i called sears and they wanted 160.00 dollars for just the icemker this did not include the shut off arm or the bucket to catch the ice and there was no screws to attach it to the inside of the freezer you guys saved me $70.00 if not more and got more for my dollar thank you very much over all pretty simple check parts select before going to like sears or any place like them much cheaper here thanks

I have some experience with using a volt ohm meter and was able to check for continuity to make my best guess at what parts I would need for a sucessful repair. That and using the percentage of parts most commonly used for this repair as shown on the partselect site, I suspected the deforst thermostat and/or the compressor start device or overload was the problem. I started by taking the back panel off inside the freezer via the two screws at the top center. That gave me access to the fan and defrost thermostat. The fan was running which was good so I suspected the thermostat which is clipped onto one of the copper refrigerant tubes in the top right hand corner of the freezer. Per the instructions on the partselect sight, I performed the continuity test and confirmed that the defrost therostat was good. I replaced the back panel in the freezer and then moved my attention to the compressor strat device and overload which are mounted to the compressor. I ordered both the start device and the overload which are two separate parts. I was going to replace both even if one was bad because of the age of the unit. Therefore, I did not need to test for either part being bad I just put the two new parts in so I did not have to get down there again. Access to the compressor start device and overload requires you to remove the cardboard back pnel on the bottom rear of the unit. That gives you access to the compressor cooling fan and the compressor. With the unit plugged in and keeping you hands away from the unit, you can check to see that the cooling fan is running. If it is not, that component may have cause the compressor to over heat thusly damaging the start device and/or causing the overload to trip out or also become damaged. My fan was running and the compressor was cool to the touch so I suspected either the start device and/or the overload. To get at these to components, you will see a heavy plastic cover on the left end of the compressor toward the fan. UNPLUG the unit if you have not done so already. There is a diagram molded onto the face of the cover which shows you how to use a flat screw driver to pry the top of the box upward and then rotate it off the compressor. It depicts the box roation as clockwise via a curved arrow at the bottom of the diagram. It indicates that the box should be rotated upward from the bottom. This is NOT correct, it must be rotated from the top backward (counterclockwise) in order to get it off. I found that I needed a medium length flat tipped screw driver to get the cover off. This was a problem as the room between the fan and the box was not ample to get the screw driver in. I have to unpluged the connector on the fan and removed the fan via three screws using a small ratched and socket. This provided enough space to get the cover off. At this point you now have total access to the overload on top and the start device below. They are plugged onto the three compressor pins so you only need to pull them off to your left to remove them. You MUST remover the start device on the bottom first as there are two tabs protruding downward from the overload that are in front of it and therefore you would not be able to get the overload off until you have removed the start device first. I swaped out these two components, replaced the cover and re-installed/connected the fan. Before I put the cardboard panel back on the unit, I plugged the unit in and the compressor fired up and the unit was running just fine. An hour later I checked the freezer and all was GOOD! I hope that this helps you DIYer's as I wish I had this info when I done my repair. Beats $500-600 for a new refrigerator/freezer. Keith

I followed the instructions in the video on the PartSelect website. The only problem I ran into was that I couldn't switch the grounding tab connector from the original side of the motor to the other. I had to add more wire so that I could reach it in its new location.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.