Removed all surface burners from range, removed range top screws, and suspended range top. Removed plug-in block mounting screw. Cut wires for plug-in block close to original wire-nut junction. Inserted contacts & wires from kit into plug-in block. Slid a provided shrink sleeve onto each wire. Stripped wires on range wires and then connected them to the plug-in block wires with the provided high-heat wire nuts. Selected one of the two provided plug-in block brackets that matched the original bracket on the range. Used a butane lighter to shrink the shrink sleeves over the wire nut connections. Snapped the appropriate bracket onto the plug-in block. Reassembled everything in reverse order and plugged in new element. Note: my only two issues are that the two high-heat wire nuts provided in the kit were a bit too small for the wire gauge in my Whirlpool range. It took some fiddling on my part by carefully re-stripping the range wires to get the wire nuts twisted on securely. Two more wire nuts of the next size up would have been appreciated. Also, I found that the provided plug-in block mounting screw did not find fit my range. No problem; I simply re-used the original screw. All in all, an easy repair and the element works perfectly.
Removed old element, replaced new element. Unfortunately, this didn't fix the problem. It was the temperature sensor. But now I have a new bake element, though!
Turn off the oven circuit breaker. Remove 2 screws that hold the element in place. Carefully pull element out, about 3 inches and remove 2 attached wires by holding the element and pulling the wire clips off of the old element. Slide wire clips onto the new element and put the screws back in.
Oven Heating element had a melt down and small explosion
Remove racks, extract two phillips head screws, pull out element, unattached wires, install new element, reverse procedure to complete installation. (Note: With the racks and element out, great time to clean oven.)
Surface Element switch faulty with no control on heat
Turned power completely off. Removed knob from front panel. Opened range top cover. Removed 3 screws from aluminum panel protector behind the element switch. Once panel is removed you can see the switch element. Remove 2 screws from the front panel that connects to the element switch. Remove the old element and replace with new element making sure that each of the 5 wires on the old element is transferred one by one to the new element. Reverse the process in putting it all together. Turn on the power and walla you've have a new stove. You just save $600 plus.
oven bake heater was bad. 8" burner socket went bad from loose connection burner connection got ruined.
two Phillips head screws hold the oven unit in. It culls out and the wires just disconnect. Reinstall in reverse and test.. The burner socket I cut the wires from the old socket and splice the new pigtails onto the existing wires and install the socket. The instructions in the package are good for people that aren't used to doing repairs.
Was waiting on my friend's boyfriend who is a contractor to switch this knob out but figured it out myself. It just slides on and off with no tools. I am so proud of myself for completing the repair all by myself on my 37 year old oven. My other knob just cracked and I was afraid the inside of the knob was damaged but it is not. Working like a charm now.
I found the received switch (PS12070192) a poor replacement for the original, or even the earlier replaced part (PS11744446, in 2016) I was going to replace since the press/return feature seemed slow to return.
The male spade lugs on the received switch are so positioned that engagement is only possible if the lug is bent out at a large angle. The lug set-back from the body edge, and the raised ribs on the sides still prevent full engagement of the connections.
I did install the new switch but found that was the only switch that didn’t give a signal light when turned on.
