Models > RS20DKXDW00 > Instructions

RS20DKXDW00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for RS20DKXDW00 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the RS20DKXDW00
1-15 of 467
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track of the pan become broken

  • Customer: Darrell from Cedar Bluff VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 379 of 381 people found this instruction helpful
Buy a new crisper pan,slide out old one ,slide in new one

Drawer guides broken

  • Customer: Paula from Chesterfield NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 278 of 350 people found this instruction helpful
Simply pulled out old drawer and replaced with new one. This broken drawer really bothered my wife so this simple repair earned me alot of points at home. Lord knows i can use all the extra points i can get. Thanks for the quick shipment of the part. 2 days from time of call to part on my door step. Thanks again

inconsistent compressor and condensor fan operation

  • Customer: Steve earney from Brooks GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 112 of 115 people found this instruction helpful
Compressor start relay would cycle several times before compressor would come on. Replaced start relay and defrost timer assy. Operated more consistently however not completely reliable. Ice would begin to melt. Noticed that if you would cycle the temperature control the compressor would start again and operate for several hours then not cycle again. Jumpered temp control and operation was continuous and reliable. Replaced cold control thermostat. Operation now normal. Suspect high resistance in switch caused start relay and timer contacts to arc. Small amount of carbon noticed under temp control...

The door would not close properly. The CAM had broken.

  • Customer: Thomas from San Clemente CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 82 of 83 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was very simple.

1. Remove the food from the door shelves.

2.Remove the door by first removing the three screws holding the hinge at the top of the refrigerator.

3. Lift door off of the bottom hinge.

4.Replace bottom CAM on bottom hinge (one screw)

5. Replace top CAM and shim on door (one screw)

6. I put a little grease on the cam to make it slide better.

7. Place door on bottom hinge. Remount top hinge.

8. Done and works better than new.

Sometimes the condenser fan would start causing the refrigerator to overheat.

  • Customer: Tom from Franklin WI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 83 of 86 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug the appliance.
Removed the screws holding the back panel.
Removed the fan blade.
removed 3 screws holding the condenser fan.
Remove the 3 metal brackets attached to the fan.
(First note which studs the brackets are attached to. Attach the 3 metal brackets to the new fan. (New screws were supplied)
Cut and strip the wire about two inches from the fan.
Cut and strip the new wire. I cut the new wire in half (about 6 inches.) Connect the two wires, twist and used 2 wire nuts. Tie wrap the wire to the wire harness. Mount the new fan (three screws)
Screw the back panel back on.
Mount the new

Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.

  • Customer: Cathy from Winter Park FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 76 of 84 people found this instruction helpful
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.

Broken Criper drawer

  • Customer: Victor from Morgan Hill CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 92 of 156 people found this instruction helpful
First I opened the fridge and removed the broken drawer. I then removed the new drawer from its shipping container and placed it on the tracks in the fridge. I then closed the fridge. Perfect!

The compressor would shut down and not restart unless you tapped the temperature knob which i did for about 3 weeks before ordering this part

  • Customer: michael from clarksville TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 52 of 56 people found this instruction helpful
Was pretty simple just take the knobs off pull off the face plate remove a few screws and drop the whole shelf down. then a few more screws down the side to the back of the fridge. Pull the sensor wire out of some styrofoam and pull off the plastic coating and slide it over the new one and install it in reverse order from taking it out. Works great now and i have ice everyday :)

evaporator fan stopped working

  • Customer: Antoni from vail AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 38 of 40 people found this instruction helpful
1) removed the face plate that runs 3/4 way up the back of the freezer side. a total of 8 screws. (6")
2) disconnected the three electrical connections.(30sec)
3) removed the fan of the the old evaporator fan motor (5sec)
3) removed the fan motor (1")
4) put in the new fan motor (1")
5) put on the old fan on the new fan motor(5sec)
6) reconnected the three electrical connections (30sec)
7) replaced the face plate on the back of the freezer (6")
Had re-frozen meat within 1 hour.

The studs to hold the shelf were broken

  • Customer: Pavel from Norwalk CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 36 of 41 people found this instruction helpful
The hardest part was to figure out how to remove the old studs and put in new ones. I figured out finally that they should be twisted out and in., Simple online or printed insruction would be very helpful. Unfortunatelly the manual does not contain any repair information.
I fixed it with little trouble.

Refrigerator was not cooling properly.

  • Customer: Eddie from Gretna LA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 34 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
I removed both plastic knobs from assembly faceplate. Then I loosened the screws holding thermostat housing to upper cabinet of fridge. Following this step, I loosened the screws of the thermostat to remove it. Next was the removal of the plate and vent pieces holding the thermostat wire sleeve in place. After removal of thermostat from sleeve; all steps were reversed and unit was up and running normal (cooling) with no problems. "Ahh, it's nice to have cool again "

Freezer Iced up, dripping water into refrigerator below

  • Customer: Robert from Bradenton FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 33 of 40 people found this instruction helpful
De-iced the refrigerator. Removed two screws from the thermostat panel on the upper refrigerator section. Tilted it down, removed two speed nuts holding the timer, unplugged the timer plug. Determined from the instruction sheet (easy to follow) what time delay function is used, based on wire colors, placed the jumper on the correct terminal on the new timer. Plugged it in, replaced the speed nuts and screws. The timer fit perfect, works just like it is supposed to, quick easy job.

Main Door wouldn't self-close

  • Customer: Gary from Huntington WV
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 26 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
After removing all the food items from the door, I popped the plastic cover off of the hinge assembly located on the top of the door. With a fine point Sharpie pen , I marked the outline of around the hinge assembly so I could return it to original position. I then loosened each of the 3 bolts holding the hinge on just enough to allow me to clear the pin of the hinge out of the hole in the door. Once the top was free of the hinge, I lifted the door off of the bottom hinge/pin assembly. My cam parts on the bottom hinge and door were either broken and/or partially missing. I removed the broken and worn pieces by removing each of the screws holding the top and bottom (of the bottom hinge assembly) cam pieces and installed the new ones using same screws. I then reversed the steps and slid the bottom of the door back onto the bottom hinge assembly and then lifted the top hinge enough to allow the hinge pin to slid back into the hole on top of the door. Positioned the hinge so it matched the outline and tightened the 3 bolts. I checked the closing and made a slight adjustment to door as one of the shelves was hitting the interior as it tried to close. I did this by loosening the 3 bolts and pushing the door up and to the right (this door was on the right side of refrigerator). Tightened the bolts and reinstalled the hinge cover.
Pretty easy. My door cams were a little different so I didn't use all the parts in the kit. My shims were metal and did not move when I replace the cams so I didn't use anything in this repair except the 2 lower cam parts. I also put some grease/vaseline on the cams to lubricate them.
I figure the plastic cams just wore out over the years and all the heavy junk we put in the door shelves. I lived with this problem about 2 years before it donned on me that it was probably just a plastic piece or two that was broken or worn out.

Cooling would shut down and not restart until refrigterator was turn off and back on.

  • Customer: Michael from Oceanside CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 23 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the cover plate over the cover over the thermostat, by snapping it out. Then I removed the four screws holding the cover over the thermostat in place. Next I removed the screw, which held the cover over the thermostat sensor. I then removed that cover and the unit, which exchanges air, flow between freezer and refrigerator. I then removed the two screws, which held the thermostat in place. I then removed the thermostat with the sensor and the white tube, which covered it. Then I removed the white tube from the sensor.

To install the new thermostat I first inserted the thermostat sensor into the white tub. I lubricated the sensor with a very small dab of Vaseline. Then I placed the sensor unit in the unit, which exchanges air between refrigerator and freezer. I next reinstalled the unit, which exchanges air between refrigerator and freezer. Then I reinstalled the cover over the thermostat sensor. I then installed the thermostat with the two screws, which held it in place. Then I reinstalled the cover the thermostat with the four screws, which held it in place. Last I snapped the cover plate in place.

REFRIGERATOR WASN'T COOLING,EVAPORATER COIL FREEZING UP

  • Customer: Robert from Doral FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
I have a side by side so in order to access the bi-metal switch I first had to empty out the freezer. The switch is clipped on to the top of the evaporator coil. I had to remove 8 screws to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment.
The bi-metal switch was right there in plain view. There are two colored wires that come out of the switch. I tried pulling them out of the socket they were plugged into but gave up for fear of breaking something. I ended up cutting the wires and splicing them together. I used the plastic twist caps. I made sure when I closed everything back up that the open end of the caps were pointing down so no water can accumulate in them. It has been 3 days now and so far so good
All Instructions for the RS20DKXDW00
1-15 of 467