RGB745DEP2CT Hotpoint Range - Instructions

First I tested oven sensor which checked o k. I then made a diagram of the electrical wireing to the oven control. I disconnected wireing and removed the control then with sharp knife I removed touch control pad. I placed th touch pad on the new panel and installed panel and connected wiring. Pluged into wall rec and test oven which checked o k .

Pretty easy in all. The connector from the igniter to teh power sorce didn't quite fit. Ijust cut off the new one and spliced the old one back on. Probably could have made my life easier if I took off the oven door, but it just meant I had to reach more. Works great, and other the connector, which I didn't really think would fit a 15 year old oven,it was very easy/.

This would've been an easy repair, but I ran into some complications.

First I removed the thumb screws holding the bottom oven pan, took the pan out, and also took the bottom panel off the front of the oven.

This gives you access to the burner assembly. I disconnected the wire to the ignitor. I then removed one screw at the front, and two in the back of the burner assembly with a 1/4 socket wrench.

The burner assembly came out. I tested the ignitor for continutiy with a multimeter to ensure this was the faulty part. There was not continuity, so I knew the ignitor needed to be replaced.

This was when I tried to unscrew the ignitor, and both screws stripped their threads on the burner mounting plate. Complication #1. Seems with age, that mounting plate tightened up on the screws.

I cut the screw heads off with a dremel and cutting wheel to get them out. I'm glad I did this before ordering the new part because I needed to order the replacement screws too.

The burner mounting plate for the ignitor needed to be re-tapped to get the new screws in with a 10-32 tap and power drill.

Once the mounting plate was properly rethreaded, I attached the new ignitor, and reattached the burner assembly to the oven.

When trying to connect the wires, the plastic connectors wouldn't click together. They matched up fine, but wouldn't go all the way in. Complication #2. While the plastic connectors were properly mated, the inside pins were both female. The old ignitor had male pins on it, the new one had female pins. So I removed the burner assembly again, cut off the new ignitor connector and spliced in the old ignitor connector with the included porcelain wire nuts.

I put the oven back together again, fired it up, and it worked great.

Removed the screw from the broken piece and put the new piece on and put the screw on.

I removed the door and the racks, and the flame spreader. I removed the 4"X6" shield loosen the circular flap to plug the new igniter to the recepticle. Turn the oven on to check the operation and if it comes on, button it back up. remember open the oven door approx 3" and pull upwords to remove the door. I would say 90% of the time the igniter is the problem.

Took longer to open the box.

Just put it on. Quite proud of myself for figuring out what and how to get the part however! The website was very helpful.

Once we knew which part was needed, we went on to your site and orded the part. It was delivered the next day! Partselect.com is bookmarked on every computer in our household, including mobiles. It's great to know there is such a fantastic resource for do-it-youselfers. It took 5 minutes to remove the old igniter and plug in the new. A screwdriver is the only tool required.

Received the oven door gasket ordered for GE gas oven promptly. Online videos suggested the gasket was held in place by removeable pins and would be easy to remove the old door gasket and install the new one. However the GE oven we had required the oven door to be removed and disassembled to remove the damaged gasket and install the new one. Some minor difficulty encountered in aligning the new door gasket and the door frame screws. Nevertheless the gasket replacement was successful and the gasket sealed and performed well.

Removed bottom shelf from inside oven, turned it obj and replaced the oven deflector with only a screwdriver

repair was easy enough, but the kit came with female ends and needed mail ends. I had to splice old connecters to new igniter

took drawer out removed broken guide. It had 1 screw removed it put the new guide in place put screw back in. Put drawer back in stove, It works fine.

I unscrewed to old glide and replaced it then re attached the screw

Replaced old with new.

I pulled the oven door off the hinges and took the bolts out of the bottom of the over that were holding the strip on. I then pulled the strip off and replaced it with the new on. I replaced the bolts and then replaced the door on the hinges.