REL4632DW1 Roper Dryer - Instructions

To make sure the dryer didn't die catastrophically, I checked to make sure the timer, the light, and the push to start start switch and the door switch were still working. After they were diagnosed to be working properly, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it back from the wall so I would have enough room to work behind it. The first item you will need is the wiring diagram. If you do not have one, one can be obtained online by using your dryer brand and model number. The next thing you will need is a quality digital multimeter that measures resistance or continuity. The last thing you will need is a 1/4" nutdriver. The first thing you will need to do is remove the exhaust tube from the back of the dryer. The second step is to remove a small black plate located near a green ground screw. The 3rd step is to remove the large black cover on the back of the dryer. Once this is removed, you will need to locate the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is a small component that has 2 blue wires connected to it. It is located on the housing where the steam from your clothes leads to the exhaust port. The first thing you need to do is disconnect the 2 blue wires. Once the wires are disconnected, set the multimeter to resistance. The unit of resistance is ohms and the greek letter omega is used. The red lead of your multimeter goes one metal tabe of the fuse and the black lead goes on the other one. If the multimeter measures 0. L ohms, then the fuse is bad and needs to be replaced. If the multimeter reads 00.00 ohms then the fuse is good and you have another problem. I hope these instructions were useful.

The video help to give confidence to change out the components since they were so inexpensive and the alternative was to go out and buy a new dryer.. It was easy to remove the back panel off dryer (after unplugging from the wall of course). The two components were unscrewed, cables unattached using pliers and replaced. The faulty element was definitely an open thermal fuse. For some reason there was a 5 Ohm resistance when the cables were connected.. Which confused me at first as I thought the fuse was not blown. I guess there was some conductance across the cabinet body. Anyway after replacing the fuse and thermostat the dryer was back to fully operational. I think it now actually drys better than before but that may just be wishful thinking.

I followed the instructions from the video on line. 1) Took off the back of dryer. 2) Removed electric connections to element. 3) Removed two screws to remove element. 4) Removed thermostat form element. 5) Reversed above steps to replace new element.

Open the top and replaced the switch bracket with the actuator lever then inserted new door catch.

Pulled the back panel. Removed the connectors from the thermal fuse and checked the to see if it was good with ohm meter. Then checked the thermostat next the fuse on the left side. Then did the same thing with the thermostats at the top and bottom of the heater box on the right side if you are looking from the back of the dryer. Then check the heater element for any opens, this is where the problem was. ordered the part from this site and it took to remove the one screw at the top of the heater box and the whole heater box comes out. then removed the 2 screws on the sides and pulled the old one out and put the new one in the same way. It takes about 10 to 15 minutes to do and the dryer was back up and running. I also checked the you tube video series.

Watch the video you sent me, and every thing fell into place

My husband followed your video

I reviewed the on-line video (which was very good by the way) and read the instructions that came with the thermal cut-off kit. Replacement of the upper thermostat was a piece of cake, very straight-forward; just remove the old & replace with the new. The instructions for replacing the lower thermostat were a little confusing because my dryer did not have the orange wire coming from the wiring harness, but after looking carefully at the old thermostat and how it was connected, I finally figured out how the jumper wire was to be connected and successfully installed the lower unit. Bottom line...the dryer works like new. Much cheaper than calling the repairman! Thanks PartSelect!

Unplug the dryer, take off the rear panel with a nut driver, remove the old heating element (3 screws). remove the thermostat attached to the element, put the thermostat on the new element and install the new element with old screws. re install the back panel with old screws and you are done. Plug it in and it's ready to go!

removed back cover 9 screws , 2 screws on heating element and it pulled out ,3wiers and the new one went in. thermal fuse, was one screw and two wiers and I was done.

After watching your instuctional video I removed the back plate removed old wired and unscrewed the part couldn't have been easier. I have never worked on a dryer in my life and am female :). The hardest part was turning off and unhooking the gas line and again after watching a video on how to do it all went well.

Removed top and front of dryer. Removed drum. Removed old rollers from spindles. Installed new rollers and new retainer triangles. Replaced drum. Re-installed front and top.

I made it very difficult. I didn't research the repair. My back is old. It's easier if you just You Tube a video. The top roller you have to take drum completely out. The bottom one, The one that failed for me, you can actually do it without taking anything apart. Access it at bottom back, two holes. I do not have small hands, it would have been easier. Channel Locks inside, 9/16th socket outside. That will loosen main axle. Then use short screwdriver or socket driver on small bracket connected to bottom of unit. Mine had one screw holding it in. Easy bottom fix. I don't really recommend replacing top till it needs it. You can only buy them by the pair too. You will be ready when time comes. I found top roller didn't actually need replacing, did it cause I had it all apart. Don't fix if not broke, right? Trust, BUT, Verify. Smaller hands, would have helped me. All I got.