REL4622DL0 Roper Dryer - Instructions

followed the instructions given for my dryer. it took me 30 min before I could dry clothes.

Found an instructional, easy to follow video by PartSelect online. It was helpful to know what tools I needed before beginning the job. I first purchased only the belt. After taking the dryer apart, I saw the idler had also broke. It was very helpful that the parts arrived quickly. The video was the the greatest tool for doing this repair myself!!!!

i took the back apart to find the problem, then i went online to findout how tomremove the blower wheel, just googled it. Easy!Took itnall apart, just had a bit of trouble getting the wheel off, was on there very very tight. Ordered it through you, easy, and very very quick, received it in a day. I got an email explaining the reassembly process. Easy. Just follow it to a t and you will be fine. As a woman, this was an easy fix.

Tools and materials:

#2 Philips head screw driver
Standard flat-tip screw driver
1/4" nut driver or ratchet
1/4" drive sockets: 1/4, 5/16
Something 3-4 inches thick to wedge under drum for support (i.e. scrap 4x4, soap bottle, books)

Replacement Procedures:

1. Unplug dryer from wall outlet
2. Pull out lint screen
3. Remove 2 Philips screws attaching lint trap to dryer top
4. Lift hinged dryer top panel near front and lean it back on wall. You may need to pry between side panels and top with flat-tip screw driver to get it started.
5. Disconnect plug from dryer door switch near front
6. Remove two 1/4" and two 5/16" hex screws inside front panel near top.
7. Open dryer door and lift front panel straight up to disengage tabs from slots near bottom of front panel.
8. While supporting drum with one hand, lift front panel and set aside with other hand.
9. Slip replacement belt around drum with ribs facing drum and position it where old belt left its mark.
10. Wedge something under drum to support it while installing the belt.
11. Re-position tensioner in two slots in bottom panel just in front of motor. On my model the bend in the spring will be on the right side with the idler pulley to the left, when viewed from the front.
12. Ensuring the belt isn't twisted, thread a small loop of it through the opening in the tensioner just below the pulley.
13. With the left hand, push against the tensioner spring while working the loop over the drive pulley.
14. While supporting drum with one hand, remove whatever you put under the drum to support it.
15. Replace front panel by aligning the slots with the tabs near the bottom and lowering it into place.
16. Carefully slip the drum opening over the flange on the front panel and replace hex screws.
17. Slowly roll the drum in one direction or the other until the belt aligns and centers itself.
18. Re-connect the plug for the dryer door switch.
19. Lower the dryer top and press until it snaps back into place.
20. Replace philips screws to secure lint trap and replace lint screen.
21. Plug dryer back into wall outlet, close door, set to dry, and press start.

Took screwdriver popped out old latch in cabnet. Took pliers popped out latch out of door. Snaped new latch parts back in.

Unplugged the dryer from the electric outlet; removed the screws from the back panel, removed screws from the unit and pulled down and outward to release the unit. Removed the wires and attached to the new unit. Plugged the dryer in to see if the unit worked. It worked, so I unplugged the electrical cord, replaced the back panel and screwed in the screws.

Removed rear panel screws carefully removed panel with out disconnecting wire harness located thermal fuse removed 2 screws removed the 2 wires with needle nose pliers put new thermal fuse in connected the 2 wires carefully put panel back on and tightened screws turned on power and start got heat problem fixed

I diagnosed the problem using the web page. It said that 60% of the people with my problem bought the Thermal Fuse. I unplugged the dryer AND cut the power at the fuse box. I used a screwdriver to remove the vent hose, a nutdriver to remove the back of the machine. The thermal fuse was right there. Removed the old one with a screwdriver, unplugged the wires from the old one and snapped on new one, and screwed it back in. Re-installed the back of the dryer and the vent hose and Whoila! It works like a champ.

I watched the video and did the repair myself. My husband, who works in maintenance, was IMPRESSED! Yay! Thank You!!!! Love you guys! I am forwarding your website to my children!

Thermal Cut-Off Kit (279816) was the wrong part for our Whirlpool Dryer Model. The thermal cut-off replacement part did not match the incumbent part. Before ordering this kit, I would recommend homeowners remove the back of the dryer and verifying this kit would work on their dryer. In our situation, it was a fuse that had to be replaced. Although your kit did not help or address my problem, I found the buying experience and the DIY reassurance to be positive. Hopefully the refund process will be equally positive. Thank you.

Repair was very easy simply used a screwdriver to remove the cracked old latch and used my fingers to insert my new latch.

I cleaned out the vent inside and out. I removed the hose and checked the heat output, there was none. I ordered the Heating element, and the fuse as it was cheap enough not to have to go in a second time. I used a nut driver to remove screws, installed new part. The hardest was removing a small part from the old element that is needed to be added to the new Element. I switched on dryer to check for heat then replace back panel. I don think it has ever worked this well. I was bought 5 years ago from an unused model home.

Turned off power and pulled power plug from the wall. Removed the two screws at the lint screen. Raised the top to by depressing the top spring clips. Removed the two 5/16" screws from front top. Removed wiring clips from front panel. Set the front aside while I removed the two broken panel clips. Installed the two new panel clips. reinstalled the front panel by placing the front panel above the sides. Opened the front panel door and supported the drum while allowing the front panel to slide down onto the new front panel clips. Reinstalled the wiring clip. reinstalled the two 5/16 screws. Turned the drum to ensure that the felt seals and drive belt weere installed properly. Lowered the top and reinstalled the two screws at lint screen. Reinstalled power plug and turned on power. No rattles or squeeks!!!

Removed front and back covers on dryer, screws on top and down one side to spread cabinet to remove drum,removed blower cover to get access to shaft nut on that side. The other is accessible. I found that both shafts can bethe longer of the two that were sent. The shorter shaft is too short and needed to be modified to let the roller come outward to lay in the grove in the drum. I will get a longer shaft and replace it.

1)Shut off power supply to dryer. 2)Removed lint filter. 3)Removed two screws that secure filter duct to dryer top. 4)Lifted front of top to gain access to door switch. 5)Removed two switch mounting screws. 6)Removed the two power leads. 7)Reconnected power leads to new switch using "Normally Closed" terminal on switch. 8)Reversed the previous procedures to complete repair.