REL4622BL1 Roper Dryer - Instructions

It was really easy I watched your video on how to do it the video went step by step and was very helpful

First I watched a instruction video online.. It made the job easy. I have done it before but I did not remember exactly how to proceed, After watching the video i knew exactly what screws needed to be removed and what tool I needed for each step. Anybody sees the video before tackling this job, they can't go wrong.

Open top. Remove back, six wires, element module and thermostat. Slid out module and new one in after attaching thermostat and buttoned up. Easy!

i wasnt down stairs when my brother did it he took it apart and put it back together. my brother know all about fixing things hes a machanic

followed video on line

To make sure the dryer didn't die catastrophically, I checked to make sure the timer, the light, and the push to start start switch and the door switch were still working. After they were diagnosed to be working properly, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it back from the wall so I would have enough room to work behind it. The first item you will need is the wiring diagram. If you do not have one, one can be obtained online by using your dryer brand and model number. The next thing you will need is a quality digital multimeter that measures resistance or continuity. The last thing you will need is a 1/4" nutdriver. The first thing you will need to do is remove the exhaust tube from the back of the dryer. The second step is to remove a small black plate located near a green ground screw. The 3rd step is to remove the large black cover on the back of the dryer. Once this is removed, you will need to locate the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is a small component that has 2 blue wires connected to it. It is located on the housing where the steam from your clothes leads to the exhaust port. The first thing you need to do is disconnect the 2 blue wires. Once the wires are disconnected, set the multimeter to resistance. The unit of resistance is ohms and the greek letter omega is used. The red lead of your multimeter goes one metal tabe of the fuse and the black lead goes on the other one. If the multimeter measures 0. L ohms, then the fuse is bad and needs to be replaced. If the multimeter reads 00.00 ohms then the fuse is good and you have another problem. I hope these instructions were useful.

Open the top and replaced the switch bracket with the actuator lever then inserted new door catch.

Watch the video you sent me, and every thing fell into place

Removed top and front of dryer. Removed drum. Removed old rollers from spindles. Installed new rollers and new retainer triangles. Replaced drum. Re-installed front and top.

I made it very difficult. I didn't research the repair. My back is old. It's easier if you just You Tube a video. The top roller you have to take drum completely out. The bottom one, The one that failed for me, you can actually do it without taking anything apart. Access it at bottom back, two holes. I do not have small hands, it would have been easier. Channel Locks inside, 9/16th socket outside. That will loosen main axle. Then use short screwdriver or socket driver on small bracket connected to bottom of unit. Mine had one screw holding it in. Easy bottom fix. I don't really recommend replacing top till it needs it. You can only buy them by the pair too. You will be ready when time comes. I found top roller didn't actually need replacing, did it cause I had it all apart. Don't fix if not broke, right? Trust, BUT, Verify. Smaller hands, would have helped me. All I got.

Following one of your site's more detailed repair suggestions, I began checking the higher percentage likelihood of failures and stepped-through to what my initial suspicion was: The Heating Element (13% ??). I first checked the fuse (rated at 73% probability) (both thermostats were rated very low as possible problems) and immediately went to the element. The failure was discovered in short order by checking continuity along the coils until a physical break appeared. The most helpful advice I received was from the pointers to remove the two screws attaching the heat vent/filter plenum in order to lift the dryer top and access the anchor screw attaching the top of the heating element box. I was over-joyed to find that the 29-year-old part number I entered, with the replacement number your system displayed, was PRECISELY the physical size and shape of the original heating element when I opened the package !! To borrow a page from the old PGA TV ad: "(You) guys are good." Many thanks !!

Opened dryer top, disconnected door wireing, took off front panel, laid dryer on back, cleaned out lint and inside, put new belt on, and put parts back together. Dryer works fine now.

Remove Filter and (2) phillip screws. Use common screw driver to pry top from cabinet. Fold top back. disconnect door switch and removed (2) screws holding front of cabinet and lift frong slightly to remove from cabinet. Remove broken belt and discard. check rollers for freedom and placed drum on rollers. guided belt through idler and around motor pulley. lift front and placed on lower hooks. Lift drum and installed (2) screws that holds front of cabinet to main cabinet. connect door switch and check drum for freedom of turn. turn drum several times to get belt to center. Closed top and replaced (2) screws that hold filter door in place. Install filter and test run dryer. Completed job in about 38 minutes.

I followed the instructions supplied with the belt. I've changed the belt before so was familiar with the repair. The toe panel clips for my model had changed so what was supplied was different than the originals. Although they, too, came with instructions, they did not fit my appliance. They were inexpensive so I scrapped them and used some self-adhesive Velcro fasteners I had in a junk box.

I followed the instructions from the video and had no problems