All Installation Instructions for Whirlpool Cooktop RC8720EDB0

ugly old drip pans.

It was simple! The range looks so much better!

Parts Used:

Drip Bowl - Chrome - 8 Inch

Drip Bowl - 6 Inch

Cindy from Champaign, IL
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins

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Cartridge wire burned out

I was unable to remove the screw which held the electrical element.. so I took the new surface burner receptacle and removed the metal part, and used the old one and put in the new one in the old metal part and rewired, and it is like new.. now I need to do another one.

Parts Used:

Surface Burner Receptacle Kit

Robert from San Francisco, CA
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set

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There was sparking coming form the module and I when I took it apart I discovered that the burner itself was not the problem. The metal parts that held the burner in place had come loose and was shorting out against the 220 line.

I used a nut driver to take the module apart. When I discovered the problem I simply threw the module out but kept the ceramic top and then ordered a new stove top. The burners would be a snap to install if the clips that secure it in place had not ALL broken off. All you do is pull the wires off with a pair pliers and set the new unit in place and reattach the wires. All that would be left would be to reattach the ceramic top and set the module back into place on the stove top. The modules were discontinued and no longer available any place. Believe me I tried. The delivery to me from Parts Perfect was very quick and without any hassles. I had no problem returning the burner. I would recommend these people any time.

Parts Used:

ELMNT-SURF

John E from Centreville, MD
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers

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RIght rear burner on glasstop range stopped working

Cut power to range in breaker panel. Then removed two screws (1/4" nutdriver) or phillips head just under top in front. No need to move range out from wall. Once those two screws were out, I lifted the top carefully (since wires are attached to back of range) and propped it up with a piece of spare lumber I had lying around. Then removed two screws holding right rear burner, and doing one wire at a time, pulled the wires from bad burner and reattached wires to new burner. Oh, I did need some pliers to pull the wires from the old burner; they were on real tight. ALSO, the old burner had a series of numbers around it. I quickly learned that these helped you line up the burner correctly. So I noted the numbers with the screw holes in the old burner and made sure I used the same number holes in the new burner. Once new wires were attached, I attached the new burner, aligning the same hole numbers as the removed burner, and everything lined up perfectly. Two screws were inserted to hold the burner. I lowered the top and reinserted the two screws under the front of the top and I was done. Total time was about 13 to 14 minutes. Honestly, very easy. Plus prior to me taking on the project, I had called a Maytag repair shop, who said their fee was $99, plus parts, plus any extra time required for labor, but the latter was not likely something that typically occured.

Parts Used: