RC8200XVW0 Whirlpool Cooktop - Instructions

Shut off power to the stove.
I removed the screw that held the block in place. Then I lifted the top of the rage to get to the wires. I cut the wires from the old block and stripped back the insulation. Next I put the heat shrinking sleeve on. I attached the new block with the wire nuts, pulled the sleeve down and used a hair dryer to shrink them. Then you just hook it back on screw it in and your done.

I took the old wires and plug off and replaced it with the new block it works fine

I took out the coils manually by pulling them out with slight pressure. Then I lift the hood by first unscrewing the four screws. I have never done anything like this before just intuitive sense to locate the screws that needed to be loosened. Afterwards I remember placing something underneath like a piece of 2x4 wood block to act as support to hold the hood open so I can work on the coils. The parts I got are exactly the same as those I am replacing so I just copied the connection and voila my electric range is working like new. Well of course before I touched anything, I made sure I turned off the main switch and that nobody switches it back on without my knowledge. Thanks for providing the parts, I just saved myself from buying a $600 electric range.

remove burned out eye, replaced with new eye.new eye does not fit exactally correct onto splash pan as point on end of steel " rod " not pointed enough to slip into mate on splash pan

Repair was very east. The suppliers package had all of the necessary parts ceramic wire nuts wire Ect. Excellent.
Will buy from Part Select Appliance again.

I removed each surface coil burner from its receptacle; removed the old drip bowls and replaced with the new ones; my stove looks good as new.

Someone did the repair for me.

Time was do to the fact that I replaced two elements! I turned off the power to the braker box, unplugged the stove and removed the screw holding the element plug in, removed the part, and cut the wires where they were clean looking (not damaged by smoke or the arch) I then stripped the wire and took the new part and twisted the parts together with the caps and then put the heat shrink on and used the blow dryer on them, attached the part to the bracket and screwed it to the hood of the stove plugged the burner in, plugged in the oven and turned on the power tested it worked, did the same for the next burner and yes mind you I am a woman it was very easy to do.

Removed old drip bowls and installed new, which, thanks to your efficiency, were a perfect replacement

Ordered acording to range model & such. Had ben unsucksessful gettin the right size thru the years & finally got the correct ones.

Removed electric coil replaced pan and reinstalled coil. Part fit just right and no problem.

I had been putting off this repair for months! I finally sat down to explore ordering the parts. It was so easy - I wish I did it a long time ago. When the parts arrived, they were exactly what I needed.

I raised the stove top, read the instructions to my son while he did the work, then I lowered the stove top, installed the burner, and it worked like magic.

lifted up burner and pulled it free from its connection, then removed drip pan. used my cordless drill to drill out broken stabilizer clip. cleaned up chips from the drill process before installing new clip. installed clip with enclosed screw and nut. I then installed the new burner by lining it up with the connection under the cook top pushed it place and lowered it into the stabilizer clip. Then I turned the burner on to try it out, but I waited for about one hour before turning on the burner because it was cold from being outside.

After finding the correct Y-frame, inches and watts in a surface burner, it was easy to just slide in the slots. Tested, and it was perfect. Now it makes all of the other burners look bad. Thanks. Your site was the only one, that I was sure I had the correct part.