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Burner won't heat
Replaced the burner. Still no heat. Decided to take the front off and test the connections (Power Off!). Found no output from switch to burner. Ordered new switch from PartSelect. Switch arrived in 24 hours, just like the burner (I'm in FL, but still fast!) My only problem was that the know didn't quite fit -- too long. Cut the metal correctly, but still too long. Had to cut the plastic adapter slightly. Now it fits like the others, but it's not quite as secure due to shortening the piece that slides on the metal shaft.
removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires. Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.
Knob/switch would not turn right front burner on at all!
Pulled range out from the wall. Unplugged cord from outlet. Removed old knob, removed two phillips screws a very top of chrome trim, removed six nut-head screws from back to reveal the switches...removed two set screws from the front at knob base. Visually checked to make sure wiring post of new switch matched the old one. There was enough slack in the wiring to remove one wire at a time and connect it to the new switch in its appropriate place. Put new switch in the panel and secured with the two set screws. Select the bushing that would take up the slack for the old knob to fit on the new switch stem. Held new stem at its base with pliers and used another pair of pliers to snap the stem at appropriate length. (The new stem could not be broken off short enough to have the knob as flush to the panel as the other knobs...this was the only negative factor in the repair) Replaced nut-head screws and phillips screws. I was especially pleased with the quick delivery of the part...even without special shipping rates I received the part in less than 18 hours from the time I ordered it online!
1. Turn off power to range and remove element. 2. Remove clips from ceramic guards. 3. Disconnect wiring. 4. Connect wires to new element. 5. Install ceramic guards and clips 6. Attached element to range. 7. Restore power.
The small element blew out consequently shorting out the infinite switch.
The very first thing we did was turned the circuit breaker off and unplugged the range. My husband removed the back panel and unplugged the switch. Drew a diaghram of the color coded wires. When we received the new one he broke the extension bar off to fit the knob, plugged it in and we were back in business. It was very easy for my husband as he is a mechanic (millwright). However, if you are mechanically inclined it is an easy fix.
no power going to burner when switch is on, switch bad
I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My knob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.
Burner only worked on High and very low temperature setting.
Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.
Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.
First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.
The control knob stem broke off when I moved the stove.
I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.
i removed the two screws that hold the element in place. i then pulled the element out and disconnected the two wires. then i connected the two wires and screwed the element back in place and now it works like new.
A simple repair using your quality matched Part turned into a CONDOMINIUM CIRCUS (no fault due to the Part or PartSelect.Com.)
It was the 1st time in over 30 yrs. that we had to throw a Circuit Breaker Switch located outside in the communal large Metal Box between Condos. Not only did it NOT cut the power off our old GE Range - it turned off one neighbor's T.V. & another neighbor's Washer/Dryer Set.
As more Breakers were tried - MORE ANGRY NEIGHBORS ARRIVED ON THE PATIO. To complicate this - the next-door Condo just underwent extensive (read 3 Months) Renovation including REPLACING ALL WIRING..... and you might imagine the rest. No Breaker Switch numbers matched the Condo number written beside them in felt tip pen... it was complete chaos! THANKS to PartSelect.Com our old G.E. is working again.
The replacement was easy: turned off breaker to range; unscrewed element from range top;opened ceramic terminal box; unscrewed element from range wires. Then I simply reversed the procedure, using the new parts. Easy to do and it only took about 10 minutes.
