RB525H3WH Hotpoint Range - Instructions

replace element

Difficulty was in determining the right model number and part number of a switch. Noted that the left front burner came on when the switch for the left back burner was turned on. By inspection I found the left front burner switch had become faulty by actually hearing an electric arc in the switch and smelling the oder in the switch. With help from the person I called I was able to determine that the Model Number on the actual stove was wrong. It had an extra 0 between the W and F which she said was a common error in the GE model number. I then gave the switch number I found on the switch to the contact person and she was able to verify the right part number. It was relatively easy to replace the switch by taking off the back upper plate then taking off two screws that held the switch to the stove. The part came quite quickly once ordered. Sears repair wanted $75 just to diagnose then the cost of the part. I got the switch for $69.

nothing to it.

Watched video,and used it as guideline.Biggest problem was removing tape from old wires.

I needed to replace all stovetop bowls and found all after-market bowls "just a little off" effecting how flat the burner rested so called PartSelect's hotline and was assured that if I were using the actual model number found on the stove the parts would definitely fit and not almost fit, guaranteed, and they did!

First I shut off the breakers. I cut the wire from the end of the new part and took off the plastic off because the end of the new wire has a special end clamp to connect to the old wire which is in the stove but that wire didn't have the same clamp to be able to connect them together therefore I needed to cut the wire to from the new part also and connect it to the old wire with a wire nut which is on the range which is attached to all the other burners. Twisted them together and I put a wire nut to hold them strong together, pushed in the end of the burner into the 2 holes of this new part. I turned on the breakers.

Dropped in new bowls. I was surprised how in-expensive new ones were.

as described on video,with no problems,very helpful

Disconnected the plug from the receptacle; removed the 2 screws holding the element in place at the rear of the oven; removed the support bracket at the front (also 2 screws); removed the panel on the back of the range; pulled the wire clips off the element (had to replace one of them); slid the new element in place; reconnected the wires and fastened the element in place; reattached the support bracket and rear panel ... With the assistance of my wife (extra hands) this was an easy job!

unplugged old block from both sides, ran new wire and plugged new wire to both ends and presto it worked, thanks for making it easy to fix. Thanks- Michael J Dumas

Followed the excellent videos from partselect.com. I would just add the following caveat for the Bake Element process: When removing the electrical leads from the old element tie a string to the lead before removing them. The wires were a bit tight on my unit, and when I released the first lead it sprung inside the firewall (probably not the right word for it). I tried snaking it out to no avail, and had to remove the back panel to get to the lead. Other than that it was easy as pie with the video instructions.

Parts arrived in record time and the right parts. The detailed diagram was so helpful in finding exactly the part I needed to order. Was so easy my girlfriend with no mechanical or electrical experience completely helped me through the entire project. She secured the electrical breaker to the range, and I had the top back to the oven removed. I showed her how the little white box simply slides off the lens cover, then replaced the new one in the holes and slide it back on. Secured the back and she turned on the breaker back on...and all lights work. Thanks for making this project easy, simple and quick.

Replace the sucket for the heating element.

Exactly followed the instructional video and my installation was flawless. Now the burners power up and function like new. The whole repair was smooth and easy.

I simply followed the instructions on the PartSelect website. Since the range is 20 years old, I replaced all four terminal blocks. I used needle nose pliers to carefully nurse the old terminals off the burner controls, and used fine sandpaper to burnish the male contacts on the burner controls. Since the failed terminal block wire had overheated, I burnished the burner contacts that slip into the terminal blocks to eliminate any resistance that could cause overheating. So far, all burners are working great!