RAB3132EW0 Roper Washer - Instructions

Disconnected water and power supply. Turned washer face up and removed pump. Easy to install just 2 hold down clips.

Removed washer cabinet. Unclipped pump and disconnected hoses. Put hoses on new pump. Attached pump to drive unit and reinstalled cabinet.

It was a no-brainer repair. We removed the worn hose and replaced it with the new one. Only variable was that the new clamp was too big for our fitting, so we used the old one. The clamp was the only mechanical thing we did. The best part was the very prompt delivery of the new part and the help finding it from the rep at the company.

your instructions in the video were excellent, but the shaft of the motor was too corroded to reuse.

it went very fast after watching the how to fix video

After watching the repair video by partselect.com I followed the directions exactly. It turned out to be a piece of cake. I found out that partselect.com has many, many do it your self repair videos on youtube.com. I intend to use them for future repairs. Thank you partselect.com.

Determined based on some Internet searches that the part that we needed was the motor coupling; washer would not spin or agitate. Once I figured out how to removed the cover (by the way, one of the guys at an appliance store told me how to do it), and reviewing the video on your website, I removed the two screws and four clips, dropped the motor, inserted the parts and put it back together - all in about 15 or 20 minutes. It was easy and clean and the washer worked again. Hopefully go for another 5-10 years. Thanks.

went to you tube and watched a video on how to take it apart and replace the clutch assembly.

replaced it with a new cold-hot valve and everything worked perfect.

After removing and inspecting the old part, I didn't see any visible sediment buildup that would have impeded the flow of water through the valve. The problem may have been a partially burned out solenoid or just simple wear that prevented the valve from opening all the way. So I decided to replace the part. The only thing that prevented this from being a 10-minute installation was the fact that I didn't have access to the side of the machine, so it was a little awkward leaning over from the front with the cabinet tipped forward to bolt the new part on through the back. Also, I found it difficult to connect the outlet house clamp to the part once I had it on, so I had to remove it, connect the hose to the loose part, and then re-bolt the part on with the hose already connected. Still and all, a simple fix, and the washer fills very quickly now.

Used pliers to help disconnect hoses, unplugged power cord, laid washer on its back, unsnapped two clips holding pump to the motor, lifted pump off, and replaced it.

Steps: 1. unscrew the two head screws 2. lift the control head and disconnect the 2 latches for the cover 3. 4. Pull the lid swwitch connector 4. with the lid open pulled the main body to separate from the machine. 5. unscrew the lead switch and remove the wires from the strap 6. unscrew the grounding wire with an 8 mm socket wrench. install the lid switch reversing the steps. DONE

Video made it easy

After watching the video and reading some of the instructions posted on Parts Select I disconnected the power cord, shut off and disconnected the water lines before laying the washer down on its "back" with help of a dolly.(IF you don’t own a dolly this can still be done without one but I recommend having a friend help you depending on your age and health) Once I had the washer laid down it became apparent to me that I didn’t need to take the whole "cover" off but could do the repair from the bottom of the machine. Following the instructions I first removed the hose clamps from the hose running from the pump to the tub and the hose that runs to the back of the machine where the drain to the wall attaches. I then "popped" the two clips off the pump as described in the video and after removing the pump I turned the clips to the side and removed them as well. At this point I removed the clamp from the "pump to tub" hose on the tub side and then removed the hose. I followed this up by removing the entire hose assembly that the "pump to drain hose" hose attaches too. Once you've seen this "assembly" you'll understand what I mean. Anyway, once that was done and the new parts had arrived (parts came quickly I placed my order on Thru evening and received them on Tues with the Labor Day weekend in-between) Install was as simply as removal, I laid the machine down using the dolly and then simply installed everything starting with "pump to drain hose assembly" then the "tub to pump hose" then the pump itself and finally both hoses to the pump. The "pump to tub" hose came with two new clamps however they are the type of hose clamps requiring the use of a screw drive to tighten not the original type it had on it that you just squeeze with pliers. I used the new ones that came in the package. The other hose didn’t come with a clamp and only has one where it connects to the pump, so I reused the original. I would suggest that you also check or just replace the drain line that runs from the machine to the wall at the same time as the rest of this repair as I did not and the 1st time I ran the machine that hose sprung a leak.

After removing the outer shell of the machine, and disconnecting the supply hoses, I leaned the machine on it's back and disconnected the drain line. Then, it was simply a matter of removing and replacing the damaged pump with the new one. The pump is held in place by two easily removable clips. The hardest part of the whole process was making sure the shaft from the motor lines up with the corresponding hole on the pump.