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Baking Heating Element Burned Up
Used a screw driver with a socket head to remove the two hex head screws holding the old element. Pulled the old element forward until the two wire attachements were visable. The wires were attached with a simple tab connector. Removed the wires from the element. Attached wires to new element slide the element and wires back into wall of oven and replaced screws. Done!
PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.
Removed the two screws that hold the element in place at the rear of the oven.Unplug each prob,you may need pliers as they can be a little tight.Reconnected the new element.Keep the old screws.New element does not come with screws.Always unplug range when doing repairs.
Most of the job is simple fastener mechanics. Use a nut driver or Phillips screwdriver. Remove rear panel.
Pull out control knob. If it is stuck, wrap a small rag around the back of it and pull the rag steadily.
Carefully match marked terminals on the replacement switch with those on original. Switch terminals may not be in the same location. Replace wires one for one, one at a time.
Carefully select the correct knob filler for the switch post. Several are supplied. Proceed with logic and measure the shaft length and the filler length and type to match.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Replaced the element and put back in place. Took about 10 minutes. Repair part came in 2 days. Very awesome website!
First of all I removed the top panel then removed the switch. I then took pictures of the switch & drew a sketch with all the info. Then I went to your web site, matched up the switch & ordered. When the switch arrived I went thru the above replacing the bad switch.
was more of a job of splicing wires together than anything else. Loved the heat shrink electrical tubing to put over the wires for insulation. used a hair dryer. must buy more of that amazing stuff
I assumed the bake element was the problem,so I ordered one from Part Select.I was amazed that I got it in 2 days! After removing the 2 screws that held the element in place,I disconnected the 2 wires from the element.I wasnt being very careful and let one of the wires slip back into the hole in the back of the oven.Couldnt get the wire back out,so I had to take the back of the stove off to get to it.Next time,I'll be careful to keep the wires from going back into the holes.Then I connected the element,screwed it in place an turned the oven on.Success !!!
I simply removed the old drip pans and inserted the new ones which matched and fit perfectly. I'm glad I found you on line. Your service was fast and the whole transaction was easy!! Thanks.
Block terminal burnt out, hot plate not working, needed to replace the terminal block
This should take approx 15-30 mins. It took me 1.5 hours as I pushed the terminals into the wrong end of the block. It's very difficult to get them out when you do that... However, there are no easy instructions on the block or in the instructions to tell you which end to push the terminals into!!! So, with a 50:50 chance of getting it right, I got it wrong. I think most people would need to buy a new part if they do this. It would be very much easier if the block, had an arrow that simply said IN here so that this type of simple mistake is less easy to do... If you get that right, the fix is quite and straight forward. Good luck.
The left front burner would not turn off, and the switch was sparking
First I unplugged the stove, and removed the upper-back panel. Then I pulled off the control knob. Then I removed the two screws holding the switch to the stove. Then one-by-one I removed the wires from the old switch and connected them to the corresponding tabs on the new switch. Then, using the knob adapter supplied with the new switch, I figured out how much of the knob shaft I had to remove from the new switch to position the knob the correct distance from the face of the stove. Then I tested the switch with a voltmeter as instructed, and then I hooked up the last wire. Partselect.com is an awsome website!!! I was able to review comments form other do-it-yourselfers that had similar problems. Then I looked up the Partselect schematic drawings of my stove and was easily able to find and order the part I needed. The part arrived at my house within a couple of days and I had the stove fixed in no time.
Unplugged oven, unscrewed element, removed back pannel, unclamped old element and removed it, installed new element, clamped it to wires, screwed element to inside of oven, then replaced back pannel Whole thing took about five minutes.