PSTW6YGXAGSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I have a fridge in my garage. I have found that a glass of ice water or a cold drink outside is very important to me. When I discovered melting ice dripping onto the garage floor I was very upset. I spun the fridge and found that the compressor and fan weren't starting. I got out my multi-meter and discovered that power was not making it to these components. I did some research and found the wiring diagram online. There really isn't too much going on with a fridge and the most likely candidate seemed to be the run capacitor. I ordered the part, replaced it in a few minutes and the fridge began working again.

First I removed the shelving from the refrigerator side I then removed the cover to the refrigerator condenser which consisted of a plastic cover and a styrofoam inner chamber cover. The Condenser is held in place with two stainless phillips head screws. I removed the screws and gently pulled the condenser forward so that the Drain pan could be easily removed. The drain pan is made out of thin sheet metal with a galvanized coating that will not hold up it will start rusting in a short time. I inspected the drain pan cleaned it up with a little Muretic acid and it had too many rust holes so I couldn't repair it. I ordered a new Drain pan on Part Select and when it came in I washed it and dried it completely then I sprayed it with Cold Galvanizing compound with zinc particles. You can get this from Home Depot on the spray paint isle. Hopefully the spray Galvanizing will keep it from rusting in the future and leaking inside the refrigerator. The Trough Drain Pan should have been made of Stainless sheet metal or plastic I don't really know why they used the galvanized coated pan. Everything went back together in reverse with no problems. Hopefully this drain pan will last longer than the first drain pan because it was only 4 years old. I remember when the older refrigerators would run for decades.

First I replaced a cone shaped piece at the rear of the auger. That worked for about 20 minutes and it snapped off the middle. Same as original problem. Then I replaced the whole damn bucket and auger assembly. Works like new. Should have done that 1st and saved $24 and a week.

This story starts with a GE side-by-side refrigerator that has always had wide temperature swings and a temperamental water dispenser. The ice maker was not making ice, and the built in digital thermometer showed it was running warm. I suspected that the heat exchanger was full of dust and so looked there. What I found was that the condenser tank was hot to the touch and the fan wasn’t running. As an experiment, I aimed a fan at the it for a while I saw that the freezer temperature dropped back to normal.
.The fan is marked as 11.2 DC so I checked for voltage at the fan and found some. With three wires and no wiring diagram I wasn’t sure this answered all the questions, but hooking the fan to a 12 volt power supply didn’t get it to spin.
I priced parts at a couple websites before using partselect.com . They also have a good diagram to look at (Sears diagrams are really poor). I ordered the part with 2-day shipping; it arrived on time, was correct and fixed the problem.

I first shut off water flow to the fridge. Examination of the package (which was not exact in appearance to the original) demonstrated that the electrical connectors were well-insulated so I arrogantly and successfully proceded without disconnecting the power. My fridge is old enough that the model doesn't appear exactly on anyone's list so I wasn't alarmed that it took an extra 10 minutes or so to noodle out how to adapt the slightly different inlet cowling and electrical cord with extension, but the device is pretty simple.
Soon I loosened the two mounting screws with a nut driver, used a screwdriver to pry away the plastic snap-in housing over the electrical socket on the fridge inner wall and pulled away the electrical plug. The original water fill tube remained in its cavity, ready for re-use.
The new unit's mounting points matched the original screw locations perfectly, as did the fill cowling - which on the replacement icemaker has two possible attachment points. The new unit's electrical connector required an extension pigtail to adapt to my socket, but it was included in the package. The extra cable posed a minor cosmetic issue because it hangs in the collection basket a bit, but that will soon be remedied with a tie wrap.
After the water was restored and an anxious wait of a few hours, we had well-formed ice cubes that weren't all stuck together and the stalactites haven't reappeared.

I unplugged the electrical connection. Then I removed the 2 screws holding the icemaker in place. I lifted out the old icemaker unit and put the new one in place. Then put the 2 screws back in and plugged in the new unit.

The icemaker started making ice very soon after turning the unit on.

used a screwdriver to remove screw and unplugged part. Plugged in new one and secured with a screw.
Simple

Removed rear and front grills,brushed and vacuumed area- probably caused the fan motor to fail- unplugged fan, removed fan,motor,and shroud in 1 piece, carefully slipped fan off motor shaft, unscrewed shroud and motor. assembled in reverse order. Frige is in tight area, .I'll now roll it out and clean often

we just pried out the old switch and pulled it out the rest of the way with a pair of needle nose pliers. Pulled off the wires on the broken switch and reattached to the new one and just slid/clicked it back into the hole.

Purchased new auger & bucket assembly and just put it into freezer and tossed out the whole defective bucket / auger assembly. It would have been too difficult to just replace the plastic disk / rotor at the back of the ice bucket; also soo expensive if a repair person were involved. Suggestion: make the back disk / rotor plate of more break resistant material, i.e. metal of tougher plastic. Thank you.

The old filter twists out and the new one twists in. The hardest part was bleeding off water thru the dispenser to make sure all the air was out of the line.

unplugged refrigerator. removed light bulb from old socket. unsnapped old light socket and pulled it out just enough to diconnect the electrical plug that plugs into the socket . discarded the old socket and plugged in new socket. snapped in new socket into refrigerator. i watched how to do this simple procedure on you tube and decided to do it myself. easy easy easy

Removed the 3 screws using a socket set. Removed 1 screw with the broken plastic piece off of the ice bucket motor by holding the broken plastic with pliers and removed screw. Be aware that the glide rail screws are standard socket size while the ice bucket motor screw was slightly larger (don't remember the exact measurements). Attached new Bucket Glide. Fixed.

the first thing i did was replace the water valve at the bottom of the refrigerator but that didn't work so then i spent more time researching the problem on your site and your diagnostic said to replace the ice maker so i ordered it, took the old one out, plugged the new one in and we had ice the next day.

Removed the ice bin and maker, then removed cover from the rear that covered the solenoid that controls the dispensing mechanism. Replace solenoid. The tricky part here is that there is a styrofoam cover around the solenoid pin that needs to be superglued into place and oriented properly during replacement. All electrical feeds snap out neatly and are easily replaced. Reassemble ice dispenser and bin, and viola, your back in business.