PGB918SEM1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

I watched a video on how to replace the Oven Igniter first. Then I took out the racks, removed the bottom of the oven. Removed the warming drawer. I was able to disconnect the Ignitor through the warming drawer area, then I unscrewed the 2 screws holding the ignior in place. I was able to pull the ignitor wires through the opening and then put the new ignitor wires down the same area. It took a little wiggling but it went through. Reconnected the ignitor and put the oven back together. Started the oven and it heated up right away. Entire project took 45 minutes.

we removed the heating element and put the new one in. we have never done any appliance repairs before it was very simple. Buying the part online instead of locally saved 40...including shipping.

Replace the ignition heater. The only slight problem was fishing the connector down through.Works fine.

Removed door by partially opening and pulling up. Removed racks out and undid two screws so bottom panel could be removed. Took out bottom drawer- there are tabs to push on in the track.... Unplugged old igniter. Unscrewed igniter and reversed process. Replacing screws requires some patience....

Removed the broiler pan in order to access the igniter. Removed the 2 retaining screws from the igniter. The hot surface igniter was obviously burned because a metal deposit crossed the arms of the igniter. There was a corrosion deposit on the burner that had also come into contact with the igniter. Removed the corrosion, had to cut the old electrical connector off and put it onto the new igniter by using the 2 wire nuts that came with it. Plug in the new igniter from the back side of the oven and reinstalled it with the 2 screws. Works great!!

I thought it was the gas valve at first, but a commenter on your site suggested replacing the igniter first, since gas valves tend to be long lived.I removed the oven floor and the broiler drawer. I then unplugged the old igniter and removed it from the burner. I replaced it with the new one reversing the process, turned the oven on to 250 degrees and in about 20 seconds, voila, just like new. Replaced the broiler drawer and the oven floor and have had perfect service since. Thanks,Adam

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.

Two back screws that held the bottom plate in the oven, once that is off, 2 screws hold the ignitor on andunplugged the harness plug, plug was really easy to unplug. Put the new one on in less than 10 minutes, A very easy job !!!!!!!!

1)Removed oven racks, 2)Removed oven door by partially opening door and lifting door up and off spring loaded hinges, 3)Removed bottom heating element cover by removing two screws in right and left back inside corners of oven, 5) removed bottom storage drawer of oven 6) disconnected igniter by accessing connection through bottom drawer opening, 7) Unscrewed igniter from heat assembly in the oven 8) reinstalled new igniter in reverse oreder of disassembly

The PartSelect on-line problem description and solution matched my problem so closely that I had to give their solution a try. Just a few modifications to the PartSelect on-line video were all that was needed. The only significant difference is that I didn't wear a white shirt;-) I have never had an on-line video more closely mirror exactly what my job required. I probably saved $150, and, in doing the repair myself, I learned details about the range construction and design that may aid with diagnosing and solving future problems.

I watched the video, and followed the instruction. The only thing I did not do is to turn off the gas. I just unplug the stove.

I did an internet search on the make and model of my gas oven, and found a possible cause of the gas oven not heating. I found an Flat Style Oven Igniter maybe the reason. I did another search on you tube and found how to check the if Oven Igniter still worked. My testing confirmed the Oven Igniter failed the testing so I ordered the part. I also did a you tube search on the removal and installtion of the Flat Style Oven Igniter. I did another internet search and found an online company called PartSelect. I ordered Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit and repaired my oven.

1. Unplug oven. 2. Open oven and remove racks. 3. Remove two screws for bottom panel. 4. Lift panel towards you and remove. 5. Remove two screws on oven igniter and remove (it may stick a little to burner). 6. Install new igniter. 7. unplug old igniter from behind oven and plug in new one. 8. Replace bottom panel and racks, plug in oven and your done. Simple and will save you money. Parts Select had best price and standard shipping was quicker then I excepted. Highly recommend trying this if you have the same issue at worst your out $40.

Overall the repair wasn't all that difficult. . . . . Other than in my situation the new part comes with a "female" modular plug, and my range has a "female" reciever plug. These of course won't connect. I had to cut both mod plugs off, strip both ends of each wire, and wire wrap using the porcelain wire wrap caps that came with my part. This repair would have been much more difficult had the porcelain wire wraps not been included. The "fine print" does tell you that you may have to do this "step" but I didn't read that the first time I tried to do the repair. Fortunately after re-reading the paperwork I read what had to be done in my situation. This simply lenghtened the time involved and added a couple steps. You need to be comfortable stripping wires in order to complete the repair in this manner. Do not use plastic nut wire wraps. . . . . This area, though protected can still heat up. Plastic and higher heat are not a good combination. The plastic wire wrap could melt. Use (if they are included) the porcelean wraps or go buy them if you need to.

Replced the igniter kit works great and easy thank you Allen J