Models > PFS22SBSBSS > Instructions

PFS22SBSBSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for PFS22SBSBSS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the PFS22SBSBSS
61-75 of 279
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Fan was not running to circulate the air; found resistors burned on main board

  • Customer: Greg from Damon TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the board cover from the back, removed old board, installed new board, installed cover.

Frige stopped cooling completely

  • Customer: WILLIAM from YUMA AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
i Removed back panels and then I removed the faulty circuit board. Installed new circuit board and presto everything worked. I can't believe how easy it was but on the other hand I couldn't believe a refrigerator had such a sophisticated part..

The evaporator fan in the freezer would slow down and speed up for a long period of time before eventually shutting down at the end of a cooling cycle.

  • Customer: Michael from Pacheco CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. was very helpful at recommending that a solution to my problem was to replace the ASM Main Domestic Motherboard. I ordered and received the board in two days from PartSelect. After unplugging the refrigerator I used a nut driver to remove the three screws that held the motherboard cover in place and then disconnected all of the connections to the board. Next, using a pair of needle nose pliers, I gently squeezed on the white plastic anchor retainers that fastened the motherboard to the refrigerator. While doing this at each anchor I gently pulled on the motherboard until it was separated from the retainer anchor post. There were four retainers total. I removed the old board and in the reverse order installed the new board. All of the connectors were easy to match to the new board because the wiring connectors coming out of the back of the refrigerator were only long enough to hook to the correct connectors on the circuit board. There was an extra connector that I didn't use on the new board and also the connection for the ground wire used a ring connector instead of a spade connector. To remedy this I simply used the ground wire assembly from my old board. I also took the time to remove the lower cover on my refrigerator and cleaned the condensing coil with a vacuum cleaner. The total time to replace the motherboard and clean the condensing coil was about 20 minutes from start to finish. This repair solved the problem with my evaporator fan. A big thanks to Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. for helping diagnosis my problem and suggesting the correct replacement part. I saved between $100.00 to $150.00 not having to call out an appliance repair person to fix my refrigerator.

Refridgerator was not cooling

  • Customer: Terry from The Villages FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First, I removed the cover plate from behind the fridge. Next, I carefully pulled the main board out (four little clips holding it in) and disconnected the plug in wires. I connected the wires to the new board, popped it back in place and replaced the cover. Very easy to do.

Will not defrost

  • Customer: James from El Dorado AR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
The replacement part went in quite easily and quickly. The instructions sent with the part was pretty self explanatory. I have also replaced the defroster element, the defrost thermostat and now the main control board. After having done all this the thing is still freezing up. After disassembling the whole freezer section I found yet another temperature sensor (Also known as Thermistor). I'll replace this part next and if it still freezes up you'll be able to find it sitting on the curb. Thrown enough money at this ten year old fridge and a new one will be in order. Thanks Parts Select for reasonably priced parts, the posts to help with the repair and the fast shipping.

Refrigerator/Freezer Warm & Condenser Fan Not Running

  • Customer: H E from St Simons Island GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
The control board and access panel are on the back of the refrigerator, so you will need to roll/slide the refrigerator away from the wall to gain access to the panel. Be careful not kink the water line if you have an ice maker connection.
Unplug the power cord from power outlet on the wall.
On this model the control board is located behind a rectangular panel that is about 8" x 10". The panel is about 3 feet above the floor on the left side (as viewed looking at the back of the refrigerator).
Using a Phillips (cross point) screwdriver, remove the screws and the access panel cover. Look closely at the control circuit board and you will see 4 small white plastic protrusions sticking through the board -- these are the plastic posts that hold the board in place. There is a small tab that locks the board to the plastic mounting post. Use your needle nose pliers (or other small pliers) to compress the small tab on the post; and while squeezing, pull on the control board until it releases from the post/clip. Repeat this for each of the four posts and the board will now be free from the mounts.
Look at the plugs that connect the wires to the board and note the orientation of each plug. Each plug is a different size, so they will only fit into the socket of the correct size. On my refrigerator, there is one plug that is not connected to the board and is hanging loose, so don't get confused when connecting plugs to the new board - this one remains unconnected.
Firmly pull each plug from its socket on the board -- try not to pull by the wires. If you have a stubborn plug, grab it with your pliers and pull it out. There is a green ground wire connected by a screw into the refrigerator cabinet. Remove this screw and ground wire. (Note: on some models the green ground wire is fastened with a screw that holds the cover in place - just be sure to reconnect the wire when replacing the cover).
Insert all of the plugs into the new board -- be sure they are seated firmly. Reinstall the ground wire. Place the board over the plastic posts and push until the tab locks the board in place. Replace the cover.
On the sheet that comes with the refrigerator they instruct you to remove the lower panel on the refrigerator that covers the compressor motor compartment. They instruct you to look at the power cord connection to the compressor and to locate a green wire from a capacitor. If your power cord does not have a capacitor exactly like the one pictured, there is no need to proceed on this step. Replace the lower panel. If it does have a capacitor as illustrated, follow those instructions and then replace the panel.

Now plug in the power cord to the wall power outlet. Before pushing the refrigerator back into place you want to make sure it is operating properly. To make sure that there is no "Glitch" during start up, I suggest that you set the temperature control inside of the refrigerator to "OFF" and wait about 3 minutes. After 3 minutes, set the control to the desired temperature (about 37 Deg for Refrigerator and 0 Deg for the Freezer).
If the refrigerator is running, you are finished. Being careful not to kink the water line, push the refrigerator back into place.

Clips that attach the guide rail to the shelf bracket broke

  • Customer: Tony from Tucson AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the old bracket. Remove the temp control arm and shutter. install the arm and shutter on the new rail. clip the new rail in place. replace drawer. 5 minutes total.

refriderator not cooling consistetly

  • Customer: randall from coopersville MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.

Freezer/Fridge not cold & compresser would not turn on.

  • Customer: Linda from Tiverton RI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
For troubleshooting, I took off rear panel inside of the freezer compartment & determined that icing of the coils was not the problem & it did not apprear to be a defroster malfunction. All components appeared to be working properly except the compressor would not turn on and only room temperature air was being circulated by the fan. After narrowing the probable causes down to a faulty Main control board by reading as many similar posts as possible,I ordered the new control board. When it arrived the following morning via UPS(less than 24 hours!), I unplugged the wiring connections attached to the old board, (which was somewhat different in appearance), and then gently popped the circuit board off of the plastic retainer studs by pushing in the little retaining clip part of the studs in with a small screwdriver so the board could be released easier as I pulled outward. I popped the new board on the studs by gently & evenly pushing with a larger hut driver over the studs until it was locked in, being careful not to damage or over stress/bend the board. I placed the wiring connecters onto the pins on the board.....every connecter had a different amount of pins so improper connection was not possible. I placed the ground wire connection of the new board between the metal cover plate @ an adjacent screw location to ensure grounding to the back of the fridge sheet metal. I plugged in the refrigerator and was quite relieved when I heard the compressor start up after a second or two! Within moments the temp began to fall until it reached the proper temp in both compartments. Success!

Continuous clicking noise, compressor was not running

  • Customer: Joe from Stevensville MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the old control board at the rear of the refigerator, installed the replacement board.

freezer would freeze then thaw

  • Customer: scott from washington NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
diagnosis, fan would run more than normal, compressor would only come on sometimes, check line voltage to the mother board (yes !!! a mother board with a relay for the compressor built onto it )! check the switched voltage out to the compressor. If a/c 115 in but no a/c 115 out while the fan is on replace the mother board. Remember this is a LIVE VOLTAGE TEST, BE CAREFUL HOW AND WHAT YOU TOUCH YOUR LIFE IS NOT WORTH SAVING A REPAIR BILL !!!
I suppose if if went long enough in this condition the result would be fan runs a lot but it does not get cold.
Hope this helps
God Bless
Captain Scott Cousins

Freezer never kept a consistant temperature. One night heard a clicking noice which was followed by the temperature display showing temps like -31. Researched to find other with the same issue and ordered the replacement board to repair.

  • Customer: David from Barrington IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
I must admit - I thought I'd attempt to do this repair and end up calling a service guy to finish it. I'm not mechanically inclined AT ALL but thought I'd give it a shot after reading others experiences. I'm glad I did. The fix was easy, but there was initial anxiety while reading the instructions that came with the part - as they mentioned the possible need to cut some wires. Fortunately that was not necessary..... Removed three screws from the rear plate to expose the part needing to be replaced. Remove the fittings from the old board (needed plyers to do that - be gentle), take the old board out by using needle nose pliers to squeeze the white plastic tabs and pull the board free. Reconnect fittings to new board and you are done. Works better now than ever - obviously the old board had an issue that GE should have recalled, as many others had the same problem.

Circuit Board was clicking and refrigerator was not working properly

  • Customer: Fred from Vineland NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
narrowed it down to the circuit board...removed cover panel after unplugging frig. read directions thouroughly.... removed cables attached to old board. this is the tricky part removing the board from the plastic clips....broke two pulling old board off popped new Board onto remaining plastic mounting clips and reattached cables plugged frig in and got a shock as my shoulder touched the board. everything seemed to be working and but cover back on....viola all done.

Compressor Would not come on. Found the relay on the Main Board burned up. There was no electrical power to the compressor .

  • Customer: James from Akron PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
Ordered a new Main circuit Board. It arrived next day. Unplug the fridge to take away electrical power. Unscrewed the panel on the back of the fridge near the top. I then pulled the wire connectors off the circuit board. Gently pull the board off the plastic tabs. Push the new board onto the tabs. Reconnect the wire connectors. Screw the panel back on.

deep freeze defrosting and frig. getting warm shortly after stoped cooling completley

  • Customer: robert from melrose IA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
Received main board in less than two days. back of frig. small panel removed 3 screws, removed cover exposing main board with needle plires squeesed 4 plastic tips to release board unpluged conectors, reinstaled new board, worked perfict. Thank you for your helpfull web site. Bob.
All Instructions for the PFS22SBSBSS
61-75 of 279