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Bottom dish rack would not roll in and out because several wheels were off because of broken axles. It had to be lifted to get in and out which resulted in many chipped and broken dishes.
I removed the bottom rack from dishwasher. Took off the wheels with the broken axles. Put the new axles on the new wheels and slipped them on the rack. They fit perfectly and rack now glides in and out smoothly. Easy as pie, and took less than 10 minutes. Parts arrived in just two days. Thanks for the great service.
The lower dishrack connectors on the original roller axle parts had loosened so the rollers kept falling off
1. assemble each of the new rollers and axles by inserting the axle through the roller from the back side; push until the two parts snap together; 2. remove the cutlery basket, take the lower dishrack out of the dishwasher and turn it upside down; 3. remove the old rollers from the dishrack and send them for recycling; 4. push each roller on the corresponding wire shaft of the dishrack, with the axle connector arm against the vertical part of the shaft, pushing the roller assembly against the shaft until it snaps together. NOTE: the new rollers are wider than the originals and fit snugly on the tracks; no wobbling; the connector snaps are an improved design that should last as long as the dishwasher.
I watched the parts select video and followed their instructions. Only “ issue” was there were no screws on the door behind the exterior skin as in the video, so lifting the inside door liner to put the new lower door seal in was concerning. I was able to pull the liner up enough and slid the seal in with no problem. The video was the key to a smooth repair.
The first thing I did was watch the video on the removal of the old broken dispenser and I said to myself that it couldn't be that easy. Well I am going on 70 years old and I was going to call a local to fix it. I bought the new dispenser just to avoid the up-charge. When the conformation email got here with video and written instructions. I watched the video and read the instructions. Just after the part arived (ahead of scheduls) I looked at the machins and said wat the he** what is she going to do to an old man. Got my screwdriver (battery and reversable) and wouldn't you know it . It only took me less then 15 minutes to do the whole job. I can't thank them enough for the video. Wife asked where the part was and almost pased out when I opened the door.. lol Trust these people . They know what they are doing!!!
Removed the unit from under counter and placed it with the door side down. Removed clamps/bands from the outlets on the sump and removed screws that attached sump to dishwasher tub. Reversed the process with the new sump and positioned the dishwasher unt=der the cabinet. Next step was to remove the arm and cover parts to the sump, then removed the old upper neck portion that stuck to a strainer. Then aligned the strainer to connect to the small neck of the sump and replaced items in the order from which they were removed.
1. Turn off water supply. 2. Remove the metal toe kick plate/insulation at the bottom of the dishwasher. 3. Remove hose to supply valve. 4. Take electrical plug off old valve. 5. Remove float valve because it was mounted it right in the way of the 2 screws on the inlet valve bracket. 6. Remove those 2 screws now you can get to them, and move the inlet valve to one side so you can get to the hose clamp for the rubber hose out of the valve going to the dishwasher. 7, Take the old valve and bracket out, mount new valve on the bracket, crawl back down on the floor, reinstall rubber hose and bracket, and float valve and finally inlet hose. 8. Turn water on. Check hose connections for leaks. Yep, outlet hose didn't clamp enough now, allowing a drip. 9. Repeat the whole process AGAIN. Replace little clamp with a REAL hose clamp, reinstall the thing again. No leak this time. 10. Test run dishwasher thru a cycle. Check again for leaks at hose connections. OK ? Reinstall insulation pieces and toe kick plate.
