OEMMAYCONV9 Magic Chef Wall Oven - Instructions

Had to take off burners and lift off top. Then I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and removed old element. Then I did all steps in reverse to install new thermostat.

Lifted the top up, only a few inches as the possibality of kinking the gas line was a issue. Took two screws out and replaced the unit, threaded the thermostat down through the oven. It was a breeze. I am 68 year old woman and did I myself.
Most importantly, the process of getting the part was amazing, ordered it in the AM and received it the next day (no extra charge)and by miday the range was good as new. Great service!

Removed oven door (easy it lifted right off) and remove oven bottom (also easy, no tools). removed two screws holding igniter and unplug old igniter from power. Re-attached new igniter and re-assembled oven.

Parts came very quickly from PartSelect. Good service.

My husband did it. I was not there to see it. He said it took less than one minute, just snapped in and worked beautifully.

replaced grates

Removed the old burners with a Plumbing Pipe Wrench by turning 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Disconnected (2) wires and replaced with new Sealed Burners. The simmer burner wires were slightly diffrent from the original but they do fit by opening the connector with screwdriver and then clamping once wire inserted.

Even though the ceramic insulator looked new (white), it had become non-functional, replacement was simple, 2 phillips screws, reassemble and test. Now I will have to order the other 3.

Removed old seal parts and had to cut new part to put into space but it went in without difficulty and has sealed the stove door tight again.

I thought that the initial problem based on the users manual may had been the thermostat.
Removal of the old unit and installation of the new one was quite simple.
The only time lag was cleaning some of the surrounding areas of the oven as worked progressed.
As it turned out though, the problem wasn't the thermostat, but rather the igniter.
But, that was a fairly easy job as well!

First I took the new gasket out of the plastic bag to make sure it was the right size. Then I proceded to take the old gasket out by pulling it with a long noise pliers. Then I took the new gasket and went around the door putting the pins in the holes that, the old gasket was in. That,s about it.

I would have never guessed that the problem would have been with the igniter since it was glowing. After reading some of the entries in your trouble shooting area it was clear that this is common and that it likely was the igniter so I simply took off the two screws that hold it in place, inplugged the old, plugged in the new, secured with the screws and it worked. The only problem I encountered was that when I unplugged the old igniter the plug fell down into the bowels of the oven and I had to fish out with a twisted up hanger.

first I removed the 6 screws that hold the oven in place in the oak cabinet. I slid a kitchen chair in place in front of the oven,then I slid the oven out of the cabinet cut out. Although the gas flex was still connected, I unpluged the electrical connection. I removed the old igniter, unpluged the igniter harness in the rear compartment. Then I installed the igniter in reverse.When the oven was pushed back in and secured with the 6 screws,I turned on and tested. Igniter glowed orange and the flame came on. Job was complete in 20 minutes.

The flame holder twists about 1/2 inch to left and lifts off. I removed the two screws that holds the igniter on and removed it and installed the new igniter.
There was one complication: when I put it back together, there was no spark. I removed the ground wire and cleaned and scraped it and replaced it and still no spark. But, for no apparent reason the spark returned and has been okay since.

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

The gas valve (recently new from partselect) wouldn't open, or sometimes it would open just enough to let some gas escape! I read from others that just because the igniter was glowing, it might not be putting out enough voltage to trip the gas valve. A check of this confirmed that it was sending just over 3V to the valve - not enough to fully open it. I felt confident that springing for the $60 would solve the problem once and for all. After replacing the igniter, the oven lights in 10 sec or less, and this is a 26-year-old appliance! PartSelect to the rescue again!