NVLR333EE1WW Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

I used these two videos to help me clean the inside of the machine, then change the drive belt.

I'm retired on a fixed income and the last thing i needed to do was buy a new dryer. I got on the internet and googled GE Profile dryer and opened Part Select. The trouble code listing with the probable part replacement was very accurate. I was also able to view a video to show me exactly how to make the repair. I ordered the necessary parts and was amazed at the UPS delivery (next day). The cost of the parts was reasonable, fit perfectly, and now my dryer is running like new. The wife is happy, and when she's happy everyone is happy.

Researching on the web I thought the trouble might be lint buildup or trouble w/ one of the parts involved in spinning the drum. However I cleaned out all the lint and replaced the belt and idler pulley and this didn't improve the smell (drum bearing was fine). I then concluded the trouble was the motor. Running the motor w/o the drum in place confirmed this was where the noise/smell was coming from. Replacing the motor was fiddly--I had to remove the clip holding the motor (pried the top w/ a screwdriver), wires (made a diagram so as to put back in same order, they were hard to get off--a pliers did the job), clamps holding the motor on the duct, the motor mount, the duct, the fan. Putting all this back together took a while (not hard just fiddly). Tested the motor w/out the drum in place and it sounded fine. Put the drum and back/front/top panels back and the dryer runs fine now. All parts came quickly and exactly matched the parts in my 1993 Hotpoint dryer. As others have said the pulley kit is not needed--these are included w/ the motor. BTW I am a 53-year-old lady. Thanks to all who took the time to write up their experiences--big help!!

We had to remove the top of the dryer in order to open the front panel. The bearing was located on the front panel and was relatively easy to replace. No more squeaking!

Opened the door and removed 2 screws from inside/top of door. Removed top and then removed 2 screws from back of front panel. Lifted drum slightly to remove front panel and attached new slides.

I took the Dryer apart easily just as the instruction video showed. I quickly noticed that I needed what was described as Gray or Green slides as well as the white slides recommended. I had to find them locally and it took an hour to retrieve them from a local repair shop. The Rear Drum Bearing was extremely hard to remove from inside the Drum. The screws had frozen in place. Finally broke them loose with Vise Grips from the back side. All the new parts went in very easy. Highly recommend getting Green Slides and also since it's apart put a new belt on, which I did not do.

My dryer was making a grinding noise so I tore it apart using a screw driver, a torks bit and a pair of pliers. It took about 15min to get it appart. I found the idler pully was worn out and broke in 2 pieces. I ordered the new part along with a new belt, since I had it appart, and they arrived the next day. It took about a half hour to put the new parts in and put the dryer back together. Works great now. While I had it apart I cleaned the elements and greased the bearing.

My dryer was making a loud stretching sound which I thought, because of previous experience, could be fixed by replacing the bearing slides. The problem turned out to be that the blower wheel that is attached to the motor was loose. I pushed the blower wheel all the way in so that about 1/4" of the motor shaft sticks out. I then tightened the bolt with a socket wrench. Problem solved.

Watched parts select video. Removed door screws. Pulled door off. Removed top screws. Pulled top off. Disconnected wires. Removed light bulb which broke. Removed drum bearing. Used pliers to remove the remaining part of the broken light. Put in new drum bearing. Installed drum bearing slides. Two are recommended. Put the dryer back together. The noise has stopped.

Doesn't get any easier. Lined up the D shape on dryer and timer knob and just popped it in. Working great. I wanted to comment on the super fast shipping. I have never had anything ordered and delivered to my home so fast. It took less than 24 hours to get to my door from the time I ordered it and we chose just the regular ground shipping. Amazing!

I watched the video on PartSelect.com on how to change out the Front Drum Bearing and where and how the Drum Bearing Slides were installed and then I got a Phillips Screw Driver and a pair of Needle Nose Pliers. The first thing I did was unplug the dryer. I unscrewed the two screws located at the top corners of the door opening that fastened the top of the dryer and then removed the top and set it aside. While I had the top off I took the opportunity to note the condition of the Drum Belt in case it also needed to be replaced. The drum belt appeared to be in good shape so I removed the two screws that fastened the front of the dryer, pulled the front of the dryer forward letting the drum fall slightly off of the Front Drum Bearing, and then disconnecting the door switch wires making sure I wrote down where each of the three wires attached to the wire harness on the front panel of the dryer went. I pulled the front panel off and the first thing I noticed was that all four of the Drum Bearing Slides were GONE as were the brackets on the Front Drum Bearing that held them. There were a couple piles of grey dust on the front panel which were the remains of a couple of the Drum Bearing Slides. I unscrewed the light bulb and just pulled the Front Drum Bearing off and discarded it. The new Front Drum Bearing snapped easily into place and I installed the Drum Bearing Slides, of which there are TWO types, into their proper brackets. I cleaned out the lint from the exhaust vent on the bottom of the front panel as well as the hardened lint from around the fan on the bottom of the dryer where the exhaust vent on the front panel attached before I plugged the three door switch wires back in their proper locations on the front panel wire harness and, making sure the drum rested on the Front Drum Bearing, reattached the front panel and screwed the fastening screws back into place. Then I reattached the top, which took a few minutes and some colorful metaphors because anyone who has ever done any kind of repair knows that the mechanism you are trying to repair never wants to go back together. After getting the dryer top where it was supposed to go I screwed the fastening screws back into place. Before I plugged the dryer in to test it I took the opportunity to remove and completely clean out the dryer exhaust vent pipe from inside the pipe that comes out of the dryer all the way to where the vent exhausts to the outside. You wouldn't believe how much lint hardens on the insides of the exhaust vent pipe. I reattached everything, plugged in the dryer, and turned it on. The dryer was as quiet as it was when I first bought it.

took out old one and replaced it with the new one,took seconds

I went online and ordered the part number WE1M654 and it came within 2 days and just pulled the old knob off and inserted the new knob and it worked.

took the knob out of the bag and snapped it into place...all done!!!

The repair was performed in the laundry room which was large enough the handle all the parts when disassembled. I followed the video and it was perfect without any errors. The job was simple and even putting on the new belt without having the ability to see what I was doing. You'll understand when you view the video and perform the job. Just follow the instructions including using the newly supplied screw to tap the new holes.