NED7200TW10 Amana Dryer - Instructions

I had a problem a couple of months ago with the dryer not heating and replaced the thermal fuse after checking the the parts with a voltage meter and the dryer worked fine. When I did the repair I also cleaned all the lint out of the dryer, exhaust, and the vent. It worked fine. A couple of weeks ago my wife commented about how hot the dryer was and it seemed unusual. I realized there was another problem but before I could check it, the dryer stopped heating again. Some time ago, the sensor dry funciton quit working so I just went ahead and changed all the electronic componets, the two on the exhaust tube and the two on the heating tube. I assumed the high limit thermostat failed. After unplugging the dryer, I took the two screws loose on the top backside of the dryer that hold the top in place and removed the top, sliding it back. I removed the four screws holding the control panel in place and rotated the panel forward, then up and out of the way. I removed the four screws along the top of the front panel, then the ones from around the opening on the front, and the front door. There was one screw that held the heating tube. I removed it and the tube slid forward. I took the front wire lose and rotated the tube clockwise to pull it out and took off the back wire and changed out the thermal fuse and thermostat. The exhaust tube was right there in the front and all I had to do was change out the parts on it. Everything went back to gether as easy as it came apart and when I plugged the dryer back in, it worked just like new.

Remove 2 screws which hold dryer/washer together on back. Remove 2 screws back top dryer and slide top back. Remove 4 screws top dryer that hold timer panel. Remove 6 screws that hold front panel on..4 on top of panel and 2 inside door. Disconnect wires to door at slide connection. Unplug dryer..this is actually 1st step. Remove 1 screw on heating element (lower right). I found that by removing the red wire the element will wiggle loose and come far enough out to disconnect black wire. There are 4 other terminal connections which are jumpers that will slide out with element. Note where wires attach and remove all. Use Multi meter on highest ohms setting or a continuity tester to test heating element - thermostats - thermal fuse. They should all have continuity between terminals. Replace any that don't . My thermal fuse was open (no continuity). I replaced it and had heat..but inadequate heat. Got new thermostat which fixed problem. Video I watched said to replace them together..I guess he was right. I suggest that while you have dryer pulled out to take time to check/clean dryer vent..also flapper outside.(mine had lint built up in hinge and prevented flapper from closing letting cold air and anything else in). Parts Select has great videos/skematics and even with "snail mail" delivery part was there in 2 days. They are the best!!

Dryer was real easy to get into, there are two 1/4" screws on top back of dryer that you can take out to take off the top. The elec. control board is on the left front of mach. it takes about 2 or 3 mins. to take out with a screw driver. I suggest that you go ahead and pull front of dryer off and clean it out if possible as the inside of mine was full of lent. There are only 4 or 5 screws holding the front on, the door will come off with front cover. It is also very easy to check all the sensors and the heating element if you have a multi meter. I hope this will help Oscar

after removing 2 screws securing top of dry i isolated the humming noise to the electronic board. Dryer would not turn on but drum light would work. 2 screws hold the electronic mount, and 1 screw hold electronic board. all electrical connection on board easily unplugged. connected new board installed in mount with 1 screw and then installed mount with two. plugged in and pressed power switch and electronic timer came up and dry started at the press of cycle start knob. the key to this repair was the stuck relay humming sound being generated by the either the relay or transformer on electronics control board.

The repair was pretty easy to install the heat element, but had to replace several other parts do to the manufacturer that had broke off

IMPORTANT!!! Unplug the unit first!! 1 - Remove two screws on the back of the top of the unit. Pull back a little on the top to release it from underneath the control unit on the front of the dryer (the piece with the dial and buttons). 2 - Remove the four screws from the control unit. They are located at the top of the dryer. Pop off the control unit - don't worry about breaking any wires as there are none. 3 - Remove the front of the dryer by removing the four screws that are NOT used for the door and door latch. I had also removed the door latch and door but I don't think it is necessary to remove them. The front will swing out from the bottom where you can unhook it and remove it. 4 - the heating element is located on the front of the unit, bottom right. Either draw a diagram of the wires or take a picture of them with your cell phone. Smart phones are great for this as you can zoom the picture if necessary. Remove the wires (they just push on but it may take some effort to get them off). It's either one or two of the wires that are not part of the wiring harness and they go from one part of the element to another so don't get excited if these wires fall down - you haven't done anything wrong, they are just loose. The one screw in the front holds the element in (the back of the unit just rests in that hole). Remove the screw and pull the unit out. Put the new element in, hook up the wires before positioning the element. Put the screw back in that holds the element and put the rest of the dryer back in the reverse order.

I verified that the thermistor was bad by testing the resistance. My manual said it should be 10K ohms at 78F. I was reading over 30K ohms. This is what caused the thermostat to blow, as the thermistor was telling the dryer the air temp was a good 30 degrees cooler than it actually was. You can also verify the thermostat is bad by checking it for continuity. I removed the screws on the top-back of the dryer and slid the top back to reveal the screws holding on the control panel. I removed those and popped off the control panel. It required a good bit of force. I then removed the four screws holding the front piece on and removed it by pulling it slightly towards me and up. The parts are located on the bottom right. They were underneath a black plastic flap on my dryer. I removed the cables and the took both parts out with a screwdriver. I replaced them with the new ones (they should only fit in the right slot) and reattached the cables. From there, reassemble in reverse of the disassembly.

Took the top back screws off (2) then pulled the top toward me and it came off. This left four screws that hold on the front control panel. I took out this four screws, which the control panel came out. You will then have to disconnect the door switch. Then I took off the front door, which which has two screws. Then I took the four screws out of the front panel,which are all on the top below the front control panel. You then have to pull up on the front panel to lift it up, it is sitting on two slots. This will give you excess to the heater. There will be one screw take it out and the heater will pull out also there will be six wires that you will have to disconnect so pay attention where they go (write it down.) You will have thermostat 2 and 3 and heater switch. Test them with a ohmmeter, my thermostat 3 was bad. There will be two screws to take out to replace the part. Put the wires back and put the dryer back together like you took it apart.

I was working on my daughter’s Maytag dryer model MDE 9700 AYW. The dryer had been making a bumping sound for some time. It had the same symptoms a few years back, but it was still under warranty. The repairman had to replace a drum roller. He told her at the time he should replace all of them but he only had one with him. So when my daughter heard a similar sound she assumed it was a drum roller again so I ordered the roller without taking the dryer part. She has four boys that generate a lot of laundry, so she needs her dryer daily. I wasn’t sure how long it would take to get the part or do the repairs. The roller arrived very quickly, I think in a couple of days. The drum rollers on the dryer did not need to be replaced. What I found was bumping the side to the dryer because the sheet metal had popped inward. The drum has very little clearance on either side. The side probably could’ve used another crease or something to make it more rigid. My time wasn’t, wasted. I think it was will spent. I found that 3+ years of lint at piled up significantly on everything. The lint on the shroud for the heating coil had already turned brown and could have caused a fire. I would suggest to anyone who’s had a dryer for a while should open it up and vacuum out the lint buildup.
It only takes a Phillips screwdriver and very little time. It’s a very little investment for your peace of mind.

I change the Thermistor 3 bracket and worked well for 10 minutes and the thermistor is broken again

Unplugged the dryer and moved into clear working space. Removed back access panel and exhaust tube, they are connected. Noted the wire connection placement before removing all wires connected to heating element. Removed the one hidden screw securing the element in the very back, cant be seen remove by feel. Then with some force sliding forward removed the heating element. Dissembled heating element housing to revel burned out element, noted wire connections before unplugging and removing old element. Reassembled all parts as they were removed and starting using the dryer.

*Disconnect power cord before performing this task...(1) Remove the two screws holding top.(2) Remove four screws holding control module, tilt forward, pull up and unlatch. Place module on top, out of the way (still connected by wires). (3) Open dryer door, remove two screws holding lint trap assembly, close door. (4) Remove four screws on top of front cover, disconnect door light wire, tilt front cover forward, lift up from catch at bottom and remove. (5) Disconnect moisture sensor connection on bottom right for easier access to duct assembly. (6) Remove three screws holding duct assembly support bracket in place, raise duct assembly six inches to allow the bracket to be tilted toward rear and lifted out of the way. (7) Disconnect Red and Blue wires from front of duct assembly and pull assembly carefully from the rear of the unit and out the front paying attention to the wires still connected. (8) Remove wires connected to the thermostat and thermistor. (9) Remove screws holding in both units and replace with new components. (10) Reverse process and test. *note* if the unit appears to heat but clothing still wet, make sure moisture sensor was connected (I must have forgot and got to go back in to check, ooops). Regardless, this is an easy task. Could be intimidating at first but after the part has been accessed twice its no big deal and can be done over a lunch break.