MZD2665HEB Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

The ice maker was easy but the older Maytag inlet valves are rigid plastic line- make sure that line is properly connected to back of fridge- the 1st night the water leaked down back of freeze- thus no ice in ice maker tray ----but the bottom of freezer was full of frozen water--- took ice maker off and realigned inlet pipe- once that was done- no more problems- ( did also have to take hair dryer and remove all ice build up in bottom of freezer --- remember to check that rigid line as it can become detached while changing out ice maker assembly- thx Greg

Sorry for delay in writing. Part I ordered arrived two days ago and it was exactly what I needed. Knowing that there will be problems even with the smallest job I procrastinated starting. When I did start this morning I foud I had to completely remove the ice maker and disassemble it in order to install the water fill cup bracket. The challenge was reassembling the unit. Not hard for an experienced repairman but a challenge for layman. Everything is thing is back to gether now and power on cooling down the refrigerator. Won't know how successful it was until turn on water and ice is formed. If it works this saved $75 just to get a Sears repairman to come out and tell me what would be needed to fix the refrigerator and $1,000 if I had to buy a new refrigerator. Extremely satisfied with service I received. Thank you.

Removed food and shelving from freezer compartment. Removed 7... 1/4" hex head screws holding back wall of freezer compartment. Discovered evaporator coils completely frozen over thereby restricting air flow to refrigerator compartment. Generally the 2 least most expensive components that can cause this are the defrost thermostat or the defrost heater coil. Both are in easy reach once coils are exposed. First unplugged refrigerator from wall. Then unplugged heater coil and checked with Ohm Meter. approximately 30+ ohms which meant heater coil was good. cut both wires going to the defrost thermostat and checked for continuity. since coils were still frozen over ohm meter should have shown continuity, it did not. indicating that defrost thermostat was an open circuit which would never allow defrost heater to energize. Removed defrost thermostat by simply unclipping it from evaporator coil. warmed to room temperature and observed it as still an open circuit. Re froze it using liquid Butane fuel that I use to fill my lighters, Thermostat remained open. ordered mew part for overnight delivery and defrosted coils with a hair dryer so as to have freezer and fridge operational until next day. Thermostat arrived by 10 AM the following morning. Once again removed back panel from freezer wall and installed Thermostat using wire nuts and sealed connections with silicone sealant. Replaced back panel... replaced all shelves and food. Plugged fridge back in and all is again happy in refrigerator land. A 32 dollar part even adding the 24 dollar overnight shipping charge saved me the expense of at the very least a 2 or 3 hundred dollar service call. Parts select lived up to their end of the deal admirably by having the part in stock and shipping it promptly. I could not be happier.

I fortunately found the Part Select web site!! Used the trouble shooting guides and diagrams to diagnose the likely problem. Viewed the installation videos provided on the site and followed the procedure to complete the repair in about 15 minutes. It was a snap (actually three snaps) Fridge now working like new!! Thanks for the great information, guidance, pricing and superfast delivery!! Ron

Thought I needed a new filter. Did not solve the problem. I returned the filter to partselect as per instructions. Will order from partselect when I need parts.

I defrosted the freezer side with my portable steamer,then removed the cover from the condenser. I checked the continuity or ohm's reading on the defrost heater. It was reading infinity,so I removed the defrost heater and found there was a crack on it. I installed the new defrost heater and let it run for awhile. Now, everything is fine.

Easy...

It took less that 30 seconds to pop out the old one and less that 30 seconds to install the new one.

I turned off the water and electricity to the refrigerator. Then I removed the ice bin exposing the ice maker. I loosened the two screws on the wall with a 1/4" nutdriver and I removed the horizontal screw on the bottom of the ice maker again with the nut driver. That allowed me to lift off the ice maker so that I could remove the wiring harness from the ice maker. A flat screwdriver helped me push in the retaining tab, and disengage the harness. Installation was in the reverse order. A third hand would have helped reconnect the wiring harness, but I put a shoe box on the top shelf of the freezer compartment to hold the new unit while I connected the wiring harness, making sure to "hear it click" when fully engaged. I then removed the wire "feeler" from the old unit and inserted it in the new one. Inserting the water inlet hose and hanging the ice maker was simple after that. The existing bracket holding the ice maker on the bottom was not rusted so I did not replace it even though a new one came with the ice maker. I should add that I had previously defrosted the freezer in order to remove the ice bin as it could not be removed with the block of ice that had frozen in the front end. I'm a senior citizen with no prior experience in changing an ice maker. I wasn't trying to set an amount of time it could take which was about 40 minutes, including the time it took to turn off/on the water and electric breaker and go to the garage for a flat screwdriver and find the right size nutdriver, and next time I could probably do the job in about 20 to 30 minutes! Bob I. San Diego, CA

This refrigerator has the freezer on the bottom. You have to remove both of the drawers to get to the icemakeer. I did not disconnect the water line or the power to the unit because it is a hassle to pull the unit out of the hole where it resides. I first unplugged the power from the icemaker to the unit and used a flat tip screwdriver to get the icemaker out. The old one was gross. We had noticed flakes in the ice for over a year but thought it was the water. The wire bar from to stop making ice had to be moved from the old icemaker to the new one as well as a brace on the bottom of the icemaker and the front cover. This is all easy. The hardest part of the repair was getting the larger drawer back on its guide. Honestly, this was a repair my 11 yr old grandson could have done with some supervision. I'm guessing I easily saved $100 by repairing this myself.

Extremly easy - just followed the video exactly. Changing the ice make out couldn't have been more easy. when the ice maker was out - noticed some ice build up in the filling water tube. Used the hair dryer to defrost (will replace the double outlet water valve to stop this once my husband is there to help me pull out the frig.) We now have perfect ice cubes. still slowly having issues with some ice build up - but know the water valve is bad too. more to come!!

replaced ice maker, followed the on line video instructions and it was the easied repair i've ever made it took less then 15 minutes

The replacement ice maker was exactly the same size and model. All the mounting screws lined up and install was snap. The website parts description was very good and helpful. We now have ice cubes with no over flowing glacier in the ice tray.

As per instructions to replace filter

I used a knife blade to slip under the edge of old switch to pray it out of the hole it was inserted into, switched the wires and replaced the new switch into the same hole. It took about five minutes!