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no heat
I looked up the #1 reason for no heat for my microwave on the site , and using my model number found that 92% of the time it was the Black Sleeve Diode. Ordered the $15 part, and installed it within 30 minutes. Most of the time was used for removing the built in microwave and removing the cover. Replaced the diode by finding it on the diagram that I printed from this site (free). Very relieved that we don't need to have our custom cabinetry re-sized to accommodate a new microwave. Thank you!
First I removed upper front grill by removing two Philips head screws on top and pulling off. This exposed the Philips head screw which holds control panel in place. After removing screw I pushed up on panel and it came off to expose fuse. With needle nose pliers I removed old fuse and again with pliers held new fuse in position. With the help of a bladed screwdriver, I pushed new fuse into holder, then replaced panel, screw and grill. This took less than 15 minutes even as one of the wires on control panel pulled out of connection and took some time to locate where to reconnect, otherwise was an easy fix .
Jenn-Air Microwave would not turn on. Clock worked , light worked, timer worked and would count down .I changed' Part #0813140 Switch, Micr} cost $8.99 plus shippingNow it works Thank You for good advise
Removed control panel, discharged HV capacitor. Removed old diode, tested to confirm failure. Replaced part. Other than the removal of the panel swapping the part was almost as easy as replacing a light bulb.
Removed 4 small star head screws from back of microwave, lifted body off, removed blown fuse and replaced with new one (found where cord enters). This model is stainless inside and out and I like it a lot. It is also sold by Daewoo and a few other manufacturers.
I mistakenly thought I had to remove the microwave to get to the back, not so. I would have had access to what I needed to unscrew; but I have to admit the hassle of taking it down and putting it back equals having to work on it attached to the shelf-your call on how you do this. I unscrewed the front top to remove the vent piece that is across the top front of the microwave. This will reveal the control panel screw. (While you have the vent removed you might want to clean the vent and the exposed filter.) carefully lift and pull out control panel. I unplugged a piece as the wires were tied tight. It will not completely detach, so carefully tip it back from exposed insides. The fuse is not clear but white with silver ends so look in upper right for it. I popped it out and replaced it. Replugged the wired part to cover and carefully fit tabs in and slide down to secre. Replace screw, replace vent piece and secure screws on top of microwave. I plugged it in to test before putting it back above my stove.
The high voltage tired was shorted. I replaced it with a new one, but that did not solve the problem.
You can test the high voltage tired with a voltmeter and a 9 V battery. Search Search for it on YouTube.
You can also test the high voltage capacitor, the high-voltage transformer, and the magnetron with a multi meter. Search for the procedures on YouTube.
I tested all these high-voltage components with a low-voltage multi meter, and they all checked out OK (after replacing the diode). However the microwave still did not heat food.
When working on a microwave it is important to unplug it and also discharge the high voltage capacitor. The capacitor has a 10 megaohm resister to automatically discharge itself, but it may have failed – – so discharge it manually.
Removed case, Discharged HV capacitor and removed cooling fan. Unscrewed ground end of HV diode and unplugged from HV capacitor. Installed new diode by reversing the order. In my case, the problem was the magnetron was bad, so I replaced it as well.
Microwave would continue to run even when door was open. (even if no time was left on timer)
Unplugged Microwave, Removed vent cover (2 screws on top of microwave, then slide cover to the left, then forward) Removed control panel (1 screw at top of panel) then removed the two screws that hold in the door switch assembly. (these you will only see by opening the microwave). Located lower door switch, removed connecting wires, and pulled switch by releasing small plastic tab which held it in. Put new switch in place, reconnected wires, then reconnected door switch assembly. Reconnected control panel, and then put the vent cover back on. Tested microwave and it no longer runs when the door is open. Super easy fix, and was done in under 5 minutes.
The microwave would not turn on or would run with the door open
Other tools that are usefull long needle nose pliers, long thin blade screw driver and small magnetic flashlight. Place the microwave on a work bench and remove the case it cover 3 sides. Place the microwave on a chair so it can stand with the controls up. You are replacing the lower door microswitch. The switch is located behind the control panel in the lower part of the area. The switch is several inches inside this area and your hands will not fit. Take care when moving wires and a couple of sensors. Use the thin blade screwdriver to release a tab holding the switch in place. Do not break this tab. Take the needle nose pliers and remove the switch. Put the wires on the new switch, open the door a short distance so a door lever moves enough to put the microswitch back into the bracket.
removed a dozen screws-discarded large cap-replaced diode-replaced a dozen screws(took longer to replace them than remove for some unknown reason). Microwave now works(wife happy).
Access is via RT. SIDE Panel as you face microwave. There are three screws on the bottom right edge to loosen. After that the side panel slips down and off. the fuse is located in the rear near where the power cord comes in. It is the white ceramic tube 1/4" in dia. and 1-1/2" long. Pull it out like any fuse and replace with new one. Reassemble and you are done!