MLG24PNAGW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I recommend you order the idler pulley as soon as you start to hear the unusual noise indicating metal against metal. Replace the idler pulley before it fails and possibly causes more damage to the drive system. Simply removed the power cord at the back of the dryer and then the multiple screws holding the back panel in place as well as the clip holding the exhaust vent in place. You may need to remove the top panel to access a few of these screws. A diagram of the belt routing is in the paperwork I found behind the front lower panel of the dryer. This too is easily removed with just a few screws.

I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the front open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++

the ignitor did not glow red checked thermal fuse by exhaust duct. fuse open replaced thermal fuse

Removed old filter and put in new one.

The repair is straight forward. The only complication anyone seems to be having is removing the door ( which is a definate must to do this repair properly). So I would like to add some details about removing the door. The manuel shows the allen wrenches going into what looks like the hinge itself to release it from the oven. This is not the case. The holes that the 5/32 allen wrenches go into are actually behind the hinge itself. I wrapped the allen wrenches with some painter tape to protect the surface of the door and oven from scratching. Then, simply insert the short end of the allen wrenches, one on each side, into the holes behind the hinge. Then as it shows in the manuel, gently close the door. But not all the way. As you get about 80% closed you'll feel resistence. That is the time to grasp the bottom of the door and start to lift it from the bottom, while stablizing it with the other hand holding the handle on the door. The hinge will start to release from the oven as you continue to press it closer to being all the way closed. The hinges will release if you are doing this correctly before the door can be all the way closed.

Hope that helps. Otherwise, once the door is off. Unscrew all the screws...pay special attention to what you are unscrewing and how it all fits together, because you're going to have to put it all back together again. Some of the glass is held in place with clips and some of it is not. Just lay it down flat and be careful to not force anything in or out and you'll find it quite easy.

I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.

the problem was not the igniter its was the thermal fuse I broke the igniter during inspection of the problem be careful its a very easy thing to break repairs complete thank you parts select for the quick shipping and low prices

Replaced

I removed the oven door by opening it to the horizontal position and inserting a small allen wrench in the open holes in each hinge. I then closed the door and lifted it free of the oven. I place the door face up on a packing blanket and removed the screws at the top of the door and the screws and clamps at the bottom of the door. I then lifted the outside glass door off the inner metal frame and set it in a safe place. I next removed the bracket holding the two inner pieces of glass and pulled the glass sheets out of the sheet metal holders. I then removed the screws which attached them to the metal door frame. Once the holders were off I removed the broken glass. I cleaned all the glass pieces and reversed the process to finish the repair.

First, I opened up the front of the dryer and then unscrewed the entire back piece. I assembled the new exhaust piece from the kit. Next, I took out the old straight rear exhaust and then replaced it with the elbow shaped left eshaust from the kit. Lastly, reattache the back and front pieces of the dryer.

We had to remove two screws from the bottom of the outer glass door that held two brackets. Those brackets held the glass door in place. Then we had to remove two more layers of glass after that using a screwdriver. Then the inner glass, which was the one broken, we had to use pliers to bend the metal tabs that were holding it in place. We got the new glass in, bent the metal tabs back, returned the other two layers of glass, and then slide the outside glass door back in and returned the two brackets at the bottom. The hardest part was figuring out how to get started. Once we removed those bottom brackets, it was pretty easy after that.

I disconnect the power, then the vent pipe. I removed the back panel of the dryer to access the pulley and removed the belt. Replaced the back and put everything back together.

Our dryer would not heat and it seemed that no gas was coming from the regulator. The igniter was working fine but the burner never turned on. To check the problem, i followed the instructions to remove all body panels until I had access to the burner assembly. I dismantled both gas valve coils and tested each one for open or closed circuit using my multi-tester. I found that the three terminal gas valve coil was an open circuit and was not functioning so I ordered a new one from PartSelect and within just a couple days, had the drier back up and functioning. I also replaced the igniter due to a malfunctioning igniter that has been changed by the manufacture. I must say that PartSelect has the fastest shipping I have ever seen. One part I ordered was at my door in less than 24 hours and I only paid standard shipping...un real! OUTSTANDING....5 STAR SERVICE

After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.

After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.

Initially we thought the problem was the igniter, so we ordered an igniter kit. Installed it but was unsuccessful. We then went on the websight and read further, about 50% of dryers with no heat but working had a problem with the thermal fuse.So we ordered the thermal fuse installed it, which was very easy, and success. Once the problem was diagnosed properly it was fast and easy. Recommend looking at the statistics for specific problem.