MGR5750ADW Maytag Range - Instructions

really easy thank you to your video

Removed stove from slot in wall. Bent rear left leg would not unscrew due to bent metal bracket. Used hacksaw to cut out leg, then straightened metal bracket with small hammer and was able to screw new leg in and adjust height by using level on stove before reinserting stove its slot. Recheck level after pushing back in place and adjust front legs if necessary. If not for bent metal receiving bracket, would have taken much less time. Still easy tho. R'cvd part in two days. Very quick.

Unscrew the bottom cover, remove the old ignitor. Reverse the process to install. Hardest part was getting the bottom cover screws out because of rust. Otherwise, very simple.

I have and in the wall Magic Chef oven CGW3330ADW seriel 10799876US that came the purchase of my home 10yrs. ago. After a black out and 2 brown outs my oven would not start and the F3 code is beeping and the "door lock" light was on but the door was unlocked. The clock was working fine, but could not use the timer or set the temperature. I googled "FLASHING F3 code" and one of the results was the comment thread on the Parts Select website. When I clicked the link I read several customers sharing their story that was very similar to mine. I was able to click on a video and see a short demonstration on "HOW EASY" it was to replace the "Short Oven Sensor Kit." I though, "Yea right!" I left a comment on that You Tube video with my make and model and a brief explanation of my problem. I received a reply to my comment with in 24 hours, confirming what other consumers had shared...The "Short Oven Sensor Kit" was needing to be replaced. I ordered the part for around $30 VERY late on Thursday evening and when I woke on Friday morning, I a shipping confirmation email. I received it VERY early on Saturday morning! I was able to replace the part very easily with in about 10 minutes. I was VERY LUCKY that I was able to to the repair WITHOUT having to remove the oven for the wall! I would have had to pay for help if I had to remove it from the wall. The Parts Select web site save me over $400 which was the estimate for the parts and labor from a local appliance repair business! I was told that it would probably be cheaper or about the same as buying a new over which was their recommendation. I am so glad that I decided to do the research and in less that 1 hour I had my order placed. Thank You Parts Select!

I replaced the Dual Oven Safety Valve and that didn't fix it. Turns out that even if the igniter glows it still can be the problem. Since the igniter is in the circuit of the Dual Oven Safety Valve, each igniter is responsible for their half of the Dual Oven Safety Valve. Apparently as the igniter ages the ohms of the igniter go up reducing the voltage below the 3.3V to 3.6V necessary to open the valve (bi-metal strip wrapped with cal rod wire inside of Dual Oven Safety Valve). Once the ohms go up and the voltage goes down no gas is released from that half of the Dual Oven Safety Valve. So it will appear that the Dual Oven Safety Valve is bad but that is not the case. It will be the Igniter corresponding to the burner that is not lighting.

Make sure power to the oven is disconnected. Remove all shelves. Partially open the bottom door and yank it out so it is out of your way. The igniter is next to the back and upper wall of the oven inside the lower (broiler) compartment. The igniter is held by two screws which I opened using a 5/16 or 8mm nut driver. After removing the two screws, remove the back plate using a regular phillips screwdriver. Next, pull out the two igniter wires until the connector comes out. Pressing the side tabs disconnect the igniter from the connector. Connect the new igniter. If nesessary, replenish some of the insulation with new insulation that arrived with the new igniter. Push excessive igniter wiring back, remount the backplate using the phillips screwdriver. Remount the new igniter using the nutdriver. Remount the bottom door. Put all shelves back. You are done.

I removed the sensor from the oven using a philip screw driver. The sensor was removed by removing the two screws holding it in place in the upper left hand corner of the oven. I had to disconnect the sensor on the back of stove. Then I pulled the old sensor through the hole inside the oven. Then I installed the new sensor by putting the wire of the sensor through the hole where the old sensor was removed. Then I hooked up the wire in the back of the stove. Then took the screw driver and replaced the two screws holding the sensor in place. It was very easy to do and the oven is doing fine now.

Cut off the electricity at the junction box. Removed two screws from the sensor at the back of the oven. Then pulled the sensor with the wire out of the installation hole in the back of the oven. Disconnected the quick connect plug from the sensor and reconnected the new part. Reversed the process and screwed the two screens back into the oven wall. Turned the electricity back on and started up the oven. (Everything ran well for about three days when the oven again signaled "F-5" indicating the oven was again not functioning properly. Restarted the oven and is currently running properly. My spouse does a lot of baking with this oven for cookies, roasts, etc. Next time it fails I will be forced to call a repairman as I believe there is something wrong other then the heat sensor.

the repair was not difficult ,take time cause back panel has to be removed to gain access to unplug the temp sensor ,it appear to work but the digital clock still flash not all the timebut it should not flash , not sure that i have fixed it

Removed glass and then two screws to remove metal plate pulled out socket,disconnected two wires and installed new socket.

This is a no brainer. I am only doing this because you asked. Pull out the stove, tilt it back, remove broken leg, install new leg.

This particular Amana electric range has a "eye" that can serve as the heat source for a small or large pan simply by using the rocker switch to "flip" between "large" or "small." This switch broke. I found Partselect.com, found the part, ordered on Saturday night and received it on Tuesday afternoon. 1) Shut off power to the range at the breaker box. 2) Used a small flat-head srewdriver to pop the old rocker switch from the appliance. 3) Used a set of locking pliers to hold the wires in place as I disconnected the old switch from it's connections using a set of needle-nose pliers. (It was a plug-in style switch). 4) Plugged in the new switch. 5)Released the wires from the locing pliers. 6) Popped the new switch into the range's cabinet. 7) Flipped the breaker to "On". WORKS Perfectly

took oven door off easy just lift up took bottom tray to oven out took bottom draw of stove out removed tin panel cover 2 screws to unplug igniter took 2 screws out of igniter and pulled unpluged wire through insulation. installed new igniter 2 new screws put wire through insulation and pluged it in. The only thing to check is matching the plug ends correctly before pushing them together.

Basic instructions provided were accurate. Most difficult part was bending down and reaching across the oven door. A general information note would have been helpful. The circuit that feeds the igniter and the gas valve is a series circuit. So, even though the igniter was glowing cherry red, the igniter was still the cause of the gas not flowing, The voltage drop across the igniter was larger then normal causing the voltage to the gas valve to go down and to be insufficient to allow the gas to flow.

After watching your do-it yerself video, I turned off the gas and unpluged ac power cord, I removed the stove door and then removed the bottom tray inside the stove unscrewed tray plate pulled buner out of its housing. I then unscrewed the two screws to the old ignitor and unpluged it. Pluged in the new one screwed it to the burner bracket, put everything back togher then tuned on the stove. IT WORKS!!