MER5730AAW Maytag Range - Instructions

We took the back off the stove and unscrewed the two screws from the inside holding the sensor on and pulled it through and plugged it in and then replaced the screws. Very easy. We are still having trouble as the display does not read the same as the tempature is in the oven.

just put it right on. So Happy I found this site, we have saved so much money replacing parts for our refrig at home our range and for our rental units as well. The stores around here want at least 2-3 times as much if they can even get the part. You guys have save us a bunch! Thank you.

This is a no brainer. I am only doing this because you asked. Pull out the stove, tilt it back, remove broken leg, install new leg.

This particular Amana electric range has a "eye" that can serve as the heat source for a small or large pan simply by using the rocker switch to "flip" between "large" or "small." This switch broke. I found Partselect.com, found the part, ordered on Saturday night and received it on Tuesday afternoon. 1) Shut off power to the range at the breaker box. 2) Used a small flat-head srewdriver to pop the old rocker switch from the appliance. 3) Used a set of locking pliers to hold the wires in place as I disconnected the old switch from it's connections using a set of needle-nose pliers. (It was a plug-in style switch). 4) Plugged in the new switch. 5)Released the wires from the locing pliers. 6) Popped the new switch into the range's cabinet. 7) Flipped the breaker to "On". WORKS Perfectly

first I checked continuity through the surface element (burner) switch (rheostat) which was fine. then found the screws holding the burner top on and removed, this made it possible to lift up the burner top and remove the burnt out surface element.which was easy to see. take down the number, buy a new one and re hook up the four wires to the new element. (always mark down where the wires went)

Unplugged the stove removed back cover plate unpluggeg two wires removed racks from oven removed two screws that hold bake element in place and reversed process

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

Read the ID number from label and ordered part on line. Part was delivered next day. Shut off power to stove and Pulled stove out from cabinet setting. Took out about 12 screws from back pannel and removed it. Pulled out wires (easily seen) from each side of heating unit at back of stove. Went inside oven and took out 1 screw (easily seen) on each side of heating element at back of oven. Heating elemnet came right out. Reversed procedure for installing. Only tool used is a small Phillips screw driver.

I did exactly what your instruction video showed. The most important thing to remember is to TURN THE POWER OFF FIRST.

Unplugged the range, took off back shield (4 screws) unplugged the old part and plugged the new part in, put the shield back on and plugged the range back in. When you remove the light unit behind the lens after unplugging the two contacts slide it sideways toward you, it is slotted, don't try to pull it straight out or you will break the lens.

1. Remove power from unit. 2. Removed 1/4" sheet metal screw from lower blower vent tube. 3. Lifted the unit above the counter and placed two 1x2" boards between the unit and counter. To remove the Stove Top to get access to the Element you must remove 8 each 1/4" sheet metal screws from the bottom side of the Stove Top attaching flange. 3 each screws on the forward and aft side and 1 each on the left and right side. (Note, the 8 each 1/4" attaching screws are at the top of the Stove Top attaching flange.) 4. Remove the Vent Grill and locate the 2 each cross point screws on the center left and right side of the opening. (Note. Due to the limited space, I used a right angle cross point driver.) 5. Remove Stove Top. 6. Tag electrical connections. Remove and replace Element. 7. Turn on power and check Element. Remove power and Reassemble Unit.

First, let me say that the (built-in, electric) oven I was working on was made sold by Kenmore, but the error code and, possibly the repair might apply to many other brands. I was getting a beeping sound and an F1 Error Code on the display of the "clock, timer, control board". On-line research said "you're control board needs to be replaced. I spent days looking for a cheap, new one ($400 for a factory replacement did not appeal to me). Then, I tried "re-setting" the control board. In my case, it took- turning off the power to the oven, turning power back on, pressing and holding "clear". After 30 seconds the beeping stopped. 45 seconds later the error code went away and the oven worked. I opened it up and carefully tested everything with a meter while it was on.It has been working flawlessly for two weeks now. So, the repair took me weeks and also less than two minutes, plus time to give it a check-up. Hope this helps. P.S. I had to say that I used a part in order to post this, I did, but not for this repair.

My used stove had been dropped by the previous owner. While I could live with the minor scratches on one side the wooden shims holding up one corner were annoying. A new leveling leg was less than $2. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to straighten the mounting hole and screwed the new leg in. This used stove was originally $2000 but I bought it for $999. the new leg plus shipping was about $10. What a deal.

Remove top oven door,remove two hex head screws located underneath cook top at the front on both sides,slid the range top forward approx. three(3) inches to obtain access needed to unplug the wiring harness, located behind the vertical part of the cook top,removed the cook top,placing it on a padded table with the glass side down,disconnected the three (3)wire spades and unscrewed three screws anchoring heating element to the cook top frame, replaced defective heating assembly with new. Repeated above steps noted above,in reverse order. And yes, all work was done after power was shut off at power panels dedicated oven circuit.

2 screws,coule plugs,test_OK.Fully functional for days now. Thank you !